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stehar said...
hey -- gizzie, perhaps you could clear this up
when I started surfing, if you dropped down a wave and were standing straight up and it was over your head -- it was 6 foot ( I AM 5'10")
I usuallly surf waves that are waist to head high -- 3 to 6 foot - my size rating,
I HAVE BEEN RUBBISHED -- 1 to maybe 3 foot is what others rate this. How high ( up to your body length) do you rate 1 to 2 foot waves?
Steve ps what about Garrets wave 100 ft?
Hey Stehar
You are right. You do get bagged if you say the surf is six foot if it is 6 x 12 inches. For some reason lost in time (i am sure wise heads will set me straight though) , the "surfer's foot" isn't the same thing as the old imperial measurement of a foot (12").
If the local reports here say it's 3ft on the beaches, it's well and truly overhead. There used to be some talk about it being the measurement of the back of the wave, which seems dumb and that may just be BS. But if you watch the comps - like the recent Pipe Masters, what they were calling 8 foot was easily double overhead from trough to the peak of the breaking wave. It's all a bit macho for me. Why not call it what it is?
Funny thing is that it changes when they start to try to measure the really big stuff - like that Portugal bomb - they seem to revert to the old formal measurement. And they measure every inch. That massive wave may well be 100ft, but it's only about 4 times the height of a 10ft or 12ft set in hawaiian terms.
Bring on the red thumbs and the sh!tstorm.


