Hi All,

here I am again with a new post and for a new board...

Is there anyone here who own the NFA FSP PRO? I like the look of the 9'0 x 30 1/2'' 120L

I'm interested to know your honest opinion on how it behaves in choppy + lateral wind? This is a condition that I have often have here and that my SB PRO 2021 9x30 seems to not handle very well (or I'm too crappy to make it work properly in those conditions).

What I notice with my SB is that when the sea has some size and is windy then it becomes very unstable and very susceptible to currents...is quite difficult to paddle out and sometimes even to standup on it because the boards tend to move in the direction of the wind and so I often lose balance. This is not happening when there is no wind (or very little) and waves are regular, in those conditions the SB is behaving good (or you can say I'm less crappy without wind ).

Anyway, how the NFA FSP PRO compares/behaves? The Gong website is very informative and is actually saying that this board is for good for Choppy and Glassy water but I'd like more an opinion from an owner of such a board or the NFA FSP 2X which is also looks quite similar?

Looking forward to your opinions.

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DaniNewbie said..
Hi All,

here I am again with a new post and for a new board...

Is there anyone here who own the NFA FSP PRO? I like the look of the 9'0 x 30 1/2'' 120L

I'm interested to know your honest opinion on how it behaves in choppy + lateral wind? This is a condition that I have often have here and that my SB PRO 2021 9x30 seems to not handle very well (or I'm too crappy to make it work properly in those conditions).

What I notice with my SB is that when the sea has some size and is windy then it becomes very unstable and very susceptible to currents...is quite difficult to paddle out and sometimes even to standup on it because the boards tend to move in the direction of the wind and so I often lose balance. This is not happening when there is no wind (or very little) and waves are regular, in those conditions the SB is behaving good (or you can say I'm less crappy without wind ).

Anyway, how the NFA FSP PRO compares/behaves? The Gong website is very informative and is actually saying that this board is for good for Choppy and Glassy water but I'd like more an opinion from an owner of such a board or the NFA FSP 2X which is also looks quite similar?

Looking forward to your opinions.

Colas must either be surfing or sleeping,be patient he will reply soon enough,IMO,probably about volume in choppy conditions,the new starboards are very volumus for there lengths ,disclaimer.. I'm old and light and not happy about this new trend of current production sups .!

Hi,

The NFA will be much stabler than your Pro, just like any "wide everywhere" (longboard) shape will be stabler than the pulled-in (performance shortboard) shape, and this for any brand. What I will say below can apply to any brand, I will take examples in the Gong line as I havent tried any other brand for 5 years now.

Also the added length of the longboard will make paddling in chop easier, and the volume being more spread over a bigger surface, it will be less thick, and this less subject to the dreaded "cork effect".

The Gong site gives the board surface of each model, as it is a quick way to compare stability of models.

I do not own a NFA currently, but I have a similar Zero, and it definitely is much stabler at 115l than my Alley 120L, which may be my board that seems the closer to your starboard pro. Also, even the Karmen is noticeably stabler than the Alley, and you can compare them on the Gong site to see how a relatively small surface difference can translate into noticeably stability difference.

On the NFA itself, it is the flagship shape of the brand, the favorite shape of the Gong shaper for more than 14 years. In the current line, it is the "do everything" backbone of the longboard SUP line, the other models specializing more into different aspects of longboard SUP riding (noseriding, power, ...) . It is the board to take if you are not sure exactly of what you want.

The fsp2x construction is a full PVC sandwich construction. The Pro FSP differ only by replacing a full glass layer by a full carbon layer. So the fsp2x is a bit heavier (average weights 8.3 kg to 7.7kg: 7% heavier), and flexes a bit more. So the fsp2x version will be a bit more comfortable in chop, while the Pro FSP will have more performance for an aggressive rider, and will be a bit lighter to carry on long distances especially for women and kids.

Edit: I see that your SB Pro is at 157 liters. It is MUCH too big for you for such a shape, giving you an horrible cork / tree trunk rolling effect on the water. For stability, you need to look for a stable shape, not add volume to a "performance shortboard" shape (of any brand) that is designed to be unstable, as it wants to promote rolling to facilitate the rail-to-rail.

Select to expand quote

colas said..
Hi,

The NFA will be much stabler than your Pro, just like any "wide everywhere" (longboard) shape will be stabler than the pulled-in (performance shortboard) shape, and this for any brand. What I will say below can apply to any brand, I will take examples in the Gong line as I havent tried any other brand for 5 years now.

Also the added length of the longboard will make paddling in chop easier, and the volume being more spread over a bigger surface, it will be less thick, and this less subject to the dreaded "cork effect".

The Gong site gives the board surface of each model, as it is a quick way to compare stability of models.

I do not own a NFA currently, but I have a similar Zero, and it definitely is much stabler at 115l than my Alley 120L, which may be my board that seems the closer to your starboard pro. Also, even the Karmen is noticeably stabler than the Alley, and you can compare them on the Gong site to see how a relatively small surface difference can translate into noticeably stability difference.

On the NFA itself, it is the flagship shape of the brand, the favorite shape of the Gong shaper for more than 14 years. In the current line, it is the "do everything" backbone of the longboard SUP line, the other models specializing more into different aspects of longboard SUP riding (noseriding, power, ...) . It is the board to take if you are not sure exactly of what you want.

The fsp2x construction is a full PVC sandwich construction. The Pro FSP differ only by replacing a full glass layer by a full carbon layer. So the fsp2x is a bit heavier (average weights 8.3 kg to 7.7kg: 7% heavier), and flexes a bit more. So the fsp2x version will be a bit more comfortable in chop, while the Pro FSP will have more performance for an aggressive rider, and will be a bit lighter to carry on long distances especially for women and kids.

Edit: I see that your SB Pro is at 157 liters. It is MUCH too big for you for such a shape, giving you an horrible cork / tree trunk rolling effect on the water. For stability, you need to look for a stable shape, not add volume to a "performance shortboard" shape (of any brand) that is designed to be unstable, as it wants to promote rolling to facilitate the rail-to-rail.

Thanks Colas,

so between the 2X and the PRO...you saying that the 2X is better in chop because it flexes more ore because of the weight?

I was thinking at the PRO because I'd like to have something very stable and light under my feet as I think it will improve turns...am I wrong in this assumption?

The choice of 9x30 at 120L is a good choice regarding considering my weight or would you go lower?

Thanks!

Select to expand quote

DaniNewbie said..
so between the 2X and the PRO...you saying that the 2X is better in chop because it flexes more ore because of the weight?

I was thinking at the PRO because I'd like to have something very stable and light under my feet as I think it will improve turns...am I wrong in this assumption?

The choice of 9x30 at 120L is a good choice regarding considering my weight or would you go lower?

Both the weight and the flex will aid in chop, a bit while paddling, but mostly when surfing, the board will be less stopped / jerked around by the chop.

You are right that a lighter board will improve your turns in smooth conditions, as the board will get back under your feet after the turn more easily. But with chop, it will be the opposite, the chop will redirect the board randomly. And stabler is always better, as you will feel more secure, and thus more confident to move your body and rear foot around, which is the key to progress in turns.

I don't remember your weight... 120L should be comfy for 75/85kg on a longboard shape in chop.
You will have some adaptation time coming from 157L, as the "sweet spot" on the board will be smaller, but nothing dramatic.

You can go for more volume for retro moves (noseriding, drop knee turns) in weak waves, where the added volume will help catching weak waves, and the added weight is not an issue for retro surfing. And a longboard SUP shape can tolerate more volume as it is more spread, thus less added thickness, than a shortboard shape.

Select to expand quote

colas said..

DaniNewbie said..
so between the 2X and the PRO...you saying that the 2X is better in chop because it flexes more ore because of the weight?

I was thinking at the PRO because I'd like to have something very stable and light under my feet as I think it will improve turns...am I wrong in this assumption?

The choice of 9x30 at 120L is a good choice regarding considering my weight or would you go lower?

Both the weight and the flex will aid in chop, a bit while paddling, but mostly when surfing, the board will be less stopped / jerked around by the chop.

You are right that a lighter board will improve your turns in smooth conditions, as the board will get back under your feet after the turn more easily. But with chop, it will be the opposite, the chop will redirect the board randomly. And stabler is always better, as you will feel more secure, and thus more confident to move your body and rear foot around, which is the key to progress in turns.

I don't remember your weight... 120L should be comfy for 75/85kg on a longboard shape in chop.
You will have some adaptation time coming from 157L, as the "sweet spot" on the board will be smaller, but nothing dramatic.

You can go for more volume for retro moves (noseriding, drop knee turns) in weak waves, where the added volume will help catching weak waves, and the added weight is not an issue for retro surfing. And a longboard SUP shape can tolerate more volume as it is more spread, thus less added thickness, than a shortboard shape.

My weight currently is 79/80kg but last year after buying the SB and started practicing with it for almost every day during summer I went down to 76 kg...I never went over 82kg so far in my life.

So if you had to buy this board for yourself and use in a location that has a mix of choppy and smooth conditions with waves with a size from small (knee high) up to 2m max you would buy the FSP 2X as this can be adapting better to all the situations?

And you would recommend the PRO just for smooth conditions? The Gong website is not really clear in that sense in fact it says that both boards are good for Choppy and Glassy. Is that an error in the website or maybe the difference won't be that noticeable? Earlier you mentioned that you own a Zero (also with a carbon layer but different shape) and for that the website says that is better suited for glassy conditions.

Sorry for all the questions but I have to admin that I like more the design/colors of the PRO rather than the 2X...:-)

Also do you reckon that the PRO will be more durable than the PVC one because of the carbon layer or that has no influence in the durability, but just a factor impacting on the weight?

Select to expand quote

DaniNewbie said..
So if you had to buy this board for yourself and use in a location that has a mix of choppy and smooth conditions with waves with a size from small (knee high) up to 2m max you would buy the FSP 2X as this can be adapting better to all the situations?

Personally, I would buy the Pro. I love light boards, if they bounce a bit more in the chop, so be it, it's a price I will be willing to pay.

Basically, I have always chosen the carbon option if available.

On durability, note that the Pro has the same 3mm PVC sandwich as the FSP 2x. So it is basically as much ding-resistant than the FSP 2x for being still waterproof after a small ding. Carbon is more brittle than fiberglass, so a hit on a rock will create a crack a bit more easily than the FSP 2x, but this crack will be on the outer layer, so no water entry. For instance I had a surfboard hit my FSP Pro Alley (a guy took off in front of me in a closeout... we were the only ones out a mile around :-) ), and the fin cut through the rail, entering the rail 1cm deep. But the ding was still waterproof. The Pro version was heating a bit more in the sun in the previous years with its thin carbon brushed look, but in 2022 the paint covers more the Pro version, so it is not different from the FSP 2x in this regard.

Here it is after a quick-n-dirty repair with Solarez:


I own a Zero because I do not like surfing in chop, so I avoid it if I can, and by taste I know I will use the short boards (7'3" and 7'6") in my quiver in weak waves anyways. My Zero is more for traveling to outer peaks, with the stability for water movements and paddling speed to catch elusive peaks, but that can become quite hollow... and also because I never had a Zero until now, so I wanted to try this shape :-)

I have 6 boards in my van, so I tend to favor specialized boards rather than do-it-all boards. But for small quivers of one to three boards, a NFA (or something similar in other brands) is nearly mandatory :-)
But I had a carbon NFA once, and it was really fun. An easygoing versatile board.

Thanks Colas!

All the info provided are really valuable for me.

I will definitely consider to buy an NFA Pro as my next board then.

Cheers!

Hi Colas.
off the point but once you posted a 10 minute warm up routine.
please could you do so again or advise me how to find it.
thanks
tanna

It is at:



When I update it, I will add [OBSOLETE] to the title and mention the latest version in the description, see for instance the v4:



For the next version, v6, I will combine the wrist rotation with the ankles, to make room for a squat section.
Plus replacing the lateral lunges by hip rotations. Hope to complete it in the next days.

Thanks a stack Colas