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watereverywhere said..
Has anyone got suggestions on which width would suit? Current weight 82kg and paddle a 14ft racing SUP on flat water and in the ocean, usually on longer paddles and some down winders.
The advice I have been given is split between the 7.25" and 8" sizes.
Currently paddling with a QB Kanaha 100, but have found this to be way too big after trying a 8" Naish Makani.
G'day Cobber,
In addition to my prior post I will say this, and it is only my own thoughts.
Blade size and the effort required to move you and your craft through the water is different for most punters.
Your weight and weight of your craft combined, plus in particular the width of your craft as well as the hull design relative to efficiency, all have a bearing on how easy or hard it is to propel the craft through the water. So if weight, width & hull efficiency are more to the hard end of the scale.
A smaller blade would be more desirable because it will take a lot less strength and torque to get moving, than if you used a large blade. Paddle stroke would be easier with a smaller blade but you'd have to do more of them comparatively.
In the case of a light, narrow, efficient design, a larger blade could be used due to less strength and torque needed to propel you through the water. So in this case even with the larger blade you could probably match the cadence of the smaller blade with the previous less efficient example, meaning you would be a lot faster.
This is of course with the same paddler. Different paddlers have different levels of strength and torque available to deliver to the paddle. Different strokes for different folks, (pun intended).
I'm sure some mad scientist could come up with an equation to work it all out?
Any how hope you can understand what I mean?
I have drag racing experience and can draw a parallel here.
With cars and bikes in racing it's important to match the gearing firstly to the engine / vehicle and then to the track.
It's about getting the power down to the ground in a way that gets you of the line quickly and has the engine operating in it's optimum rev range around the track or down the strip. I see the gearing to be similar to blade size of a paddle and the engine to be similar to the paddler and the vehicle the SUP. You want the gearing to not be too tall making you bog down at the start then are never operating in the peak rev range. You don't want the gearing too low so that you run out of legs and fuel, you hit peak revs too early, so your revving hard but not going as fast as you should be.
There are different engines as there are different paddlers, some engines, (like jap bikes), are made to have max power and torque high in the rev range. Some engines make gobs of torque down low and have a powerful midrange, (like a harley). These 2 bikes could go down the strip side by side as could 2 paddlers, 1 built like a jap bike, has a high cadence (revs), not a lot of torque (muscle), using a small blade (low gearing).
2nd, built more like a harley, lower cadence, gobs of torque, able to use a larger blade (taller gearing).
I have rambled on enough.
Hope it makes sense?
Cheers,
Ken