Gday

I'm a big, old beginner - 95kg, 195cm and 65 years

Started on an 11'2" x 34" x 235 litre Fanatic Fly. I love doing fast, straight lines across the face in little runners but can't turn much. My footwork is too frozen to get back and forward on the board.

Thinking of this older model Fanatic Allwave, hoping that I'll be able to surf and turn the board on nice smooth turns from the middle of the board.

I know lots of you prefer the smaller Allwaves but I'm never going to be a ripper and having a comfort board suits me

Any advice appreciated from any that have had one of these

An Allwave is a nice easy to surf small wave board.

It is a shape that is quite easy to turn from the middle/front foot - although i'd argue almost all boards surf better from the tail.

On really small runners, it can be really hard to get to the back of the board. If you do, you can end up dropping off the back of the wave. I find what works best for me on really small waves is making my stance as wide as possible (even if my back foot isn't all the way back), it allows me to get a lower centre of gravity and work the board harder.

Dont surf when theres peeps around if you can only go straight !

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Hoppo3228 said..
An Allwave is a nice easy to surf small wave board.

It is a shape that is quite easy to turn from the middle/front foot - although i'd argue almost all boards surf better from the tail.

On really small runners, it can be really hard to get to the back of the board. If you do, you can end up dropping off the back of the wave. I find what works best for me on really small waves is making my stance as wide as possible (even if my back foot isn't all the way back), it allows me to get a lower centre of gravity and work the board harder.

Thanks for the advice Hoppo. Much appreciated. Because I'm so tall, I'm slowly getting my stance wider and lower. It's helping me taking off on slightly steeper waves without falling off the back of the board.

I'm going to call the owner of the Allwave and see if I can get a try on it.

Hey do you mind if I ask a really dumb beginner question? On my big board, when I'm surfing long runners, sometimes I can make it to a soft shoulder and paddle out gracefully over the back of the wave. Other times, my big tanker just refuses to pull out and I end up stuck on the wave until I just about hit the sand. Then I can only jump off the board and, at speed, end up jarring my ankles and heels when I hit the sand. You got any advice for injury free pull outs in shallow water?

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LastSupper said..
Dont surf when theres peeps around if you can only go straight !

Don't worry LastSupper I always keep a safe distance! :o)

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KneeloMike said..

Hoppo3228 said..
An Allwave is a nice easy to surf small wave board.

It is a shape that is quite easy to turn from the middle/front foot - although i'd argue almost all boards surf better from the tail.

On really small runners, it can be really hard to get to the back of the board. If you do, you can end up dropping off the back of the wave. I find what works best for me on really small waves is making my stance as wide as possible (even if my back foot isn't all the way back), it allows me to get a lower centre of gravity and work the board harder.

Thanks for the advice Hoppo. Much appreciated. Because I'm so tall, I'm slowly getting my stance wider and lower. It's helping me taking off on slightly steeper waves without falling off the back of the board.

I'm going to call the owner of the Allwave and see if I can get a try on it.

Hey do you mind if I ask a really dumb beginner question? On my big board, when I'm surfing long runners, sometimes I can make it to a soft shoulder and paddle out gracefully over the back of the wave. Other times, my big tanker just refuses to pull out and I end up stuck on the wave until I just about hit the sand. Then I can only jump off the board and, at speed, end up jarring my ankles and heels when I hit the sand. You got any advice for injury free pull outs in shallow water?

If I can't get off the waves gracefully I jump over the wave and let the board do it's thing. Riding in a wave breaking over shallow sand is a good way to hurt your spine or ankles.

Get it.
Have 9'6" Fly.
Tried a 9' Allwave. The Allwave was waaay more stable, accelerated paddling in 1/2 the strokes, caught waves easier...not earlier, turned from anywhere on the board, but did seem to paddle slower.
Curvier outline, thinner rails, more tail rocker, multi fins

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KneeloMike said..

Hoppo3228 said..
An Allwave is a nice easy to surf small wave board.

It is a shape that is quite easy to turn from the middle/front foot - although i'd argue almost all boards surf better from the tail.

On really small runners, it can be really hard to get to the back of the board. If you do, you can end up dropping off the back of the wave. I find what works best for me on really small waves is making my stance as wide as possible (even if my back foot isn't all the way back), it allows me to get a lower centre of gravity and work the board harder.

Thanks for the advice Hoppo. Much appreciated. Because I'm so tall, I'm slowly getting my stance wider and lower. It's helping me taking off on slightly steeper waves without falling off the back of the board.

I'm going to call the owner of the Allwave and see if I can get a try on it.

Hey do you mind if I ask a really dumb beginner question? On my big board, when I'm surfing long runners, sometimes I can make it to a soft shoulder and paddle out gracefully over the back of the wave. Other times, my big tanker just refuses to pull out and I end up stuck on the wave until I just about hit the sand. Then I can only jump off the board and, at speed, end up jarring my ankles and heels when I hit the sand. You got any advice for injury free pull outs in shallow water?

No such thing as a dumb question mate

Speed is your friend here. You've gotta get in front of the curl to turn off the back. If you're caught too far behind the whitewater, jump off (if nobody is in danger). But jump into the wave, not the flat. Also make your body as big as you can, to minimise impact if you hit the bottom if it's shallow.

If you get the Allwave, practice pumping for speed on the wave. With a thruster / quad, it's easier to do than on a single fin.

Watch Rick surf his Skate here: He pumps up and down the wave for speed. Ends up on the shoulder where he'll either cut back or turn off the wave.

Thanks for going to the trouble of finding this video. If I could surf one-tenth as well as Rick Weeks does at 73 years, I'd be a happy man. When I win the Lotto, I'm going to order a Sunova Kanga. Love the videos of Rick surfing a Kanga. ??

Where do you surf Hoppo?

Around Bells/Torquay in Vicco mate

Rick has lots of vids on youtube and is very giving with his advice on Sunova boards.

The Kanga looks sweet as an all round Surf Sup - Ian Cairns knows a thing or two on what works!

My second board was a 9'10 allwave, coming down from a 11'2 starboard avanti.

I am not as tall as you, but much heavier.

I still have that 9'10 and on occasion i'll still take it out when i feel like having a stable platform out there.

They don't make it anymore but that 9'8 replaced it. I'd recommend it. Its a good stepping stone for moving to something more in your range (prob around 160l or so), eventually.

Also about this:

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KneeloMike said..

Then I can only jump off the board and, at speed, end up jarring my ankles and heels when I hit the sand. You got any advice for injury free pull outs in shallow water?

Please stop doing it.

I broke my leg three years ago doing this exact same thing. Snapped tib+fib, now i have a rod inside my bone.

I'm back surfing now, and my confidence has mostly returned, however, getting in is a real problem now as i absolutely refuse to be anywhere near the shallows when i'm getting off my board.

If know i am going to end up too close to the shallows, i just fall backwards into the whitewater. Make sure there is no-one around when you do that.

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KneeloMike said..

Hoppo3228 said..
An Allwave is a nice easy to surf small wave board.

It is a shape that is quite easy to turn from the middle/front foot - although i'd argue almost all boards surf better from the tail.

On really small runners, it can be really hard to get to the back of the board. If you do, you can end up dropping off the back of the wave. I find what works best for me on really small waves is making my stance as wide as possible (even if my back foot isn't all the way back), it allows me to get a lower centre of gravity and work the board harder.

Thanks for the advice Hoppo. Much appreciated. Because I'm so tall, I'm slowly getting my stance wider and lower. It's helping me taking off on slightly steeper waves without falling off the back of the board.

I'm going to call the owner of the Allwave and see if I can get a try on it.

Hey do you mind if I ask a really dumb beginner question? On my big board, when I'm surfing long runners, sometimes I can make it to a soft shoulder and paddle out gracefully over the back of the wave. Other times, my big tanker just refuses to pull out and I end up stuck on the wave until I just about hit the sand. Then I can only jump off the board and, at speed, end up jarring my ankles and heels when I hit the sand. You got any advice for injury free pull outs in shallow water?

Hi Kneelo

Shallow water on small waves is the easiest place to get hurt, exactly as you say.... jumping off and trying to land on your feet is a very easy way to really hurt something.

I am ALWAYS wearing a knee brace because my right knee is super weak, so any bad landing could end my surfing career.
So... I almost NEVER jump or step off in the shallows

I also never dive over the wave.
Why? when my feet leave the board, I lose control of it..... the wave can bounce it back into me.
So I always leave my feet on the board until I have me and the board in the safest position to avoid injury.

My feet tell me where the board is, and control where it goes.

To do this, I must "control my exit" by making my move before the wave takes control.
If I bail just 1 second early, I get to control the fall.
I generally kick the board forward, toward the shoulder, and fall flat, off the back of the board... INTO the wave, to cushion the fall.
Like and airbag... you don't need much depth to land safely if you can use the whitewater or the face of the wave to add depth to the water.
I keep my paddle between me and the board and up, so it goes under last to avoid falling on it.

This all takes awareness and practice, but is easy to learn.... just push the board forward as you fall back, keeping your feet ON the board till you are in the water (see pics)

My friends that dive over the back of the wave run the risk of breaking the board or get hit by the board as the wave bounces it into them. Once they leave the board, the wave can do some surprising things, like bounce it right back up at you as you dive over.

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Hoppo3228 said..
Around Bells/Torquay in Vicco mate

Rick has lots of vids on youtube and is very giving with his advice on Sunova boards.

The Kanga looks sweet as an all round Surf Sup - Ian Cairns knows a thing or two on what works!

The Kanga is a great board, you do pay for the experience though. I would spend it again having said that.

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supthecreek said..

KneeloMike said..

Hoppo3228 said..
An Allwave is a nice easy to surf small wave board.

It is a shape that is quite easy to turn from the middle/front foot - although i'd argue almost all boards surf better from the tail.

On really small runners, it can be really hard to get to the back of the board. If you do, you can end up dropping off the back of the wave. I find what works best for me on really small waves is making my stance as wide as possible (even if my back foot isn't all the way back), it allows me to get a lower centre of gravity and work the board harder.

Thanks for the advice Hoppo. Much appreciated. Because I'm so tall, I'm slowly getting my stance wider and lower. It's helping me taking off on slightly steeper waves without falling off the back of the board.

I'm going to call the owner of the Allwave and see if I can get a try on it.

Hey do you mind if I ask a really dumb beginner question? On my big board, when I'm surfing long runners, sometimes I can make it to a soft shoulder and paddle out gracefully over the back of the wave. Other times, my big tanker just refuses to pull out and I end up stuck on the wave until I just about hit the sand. Then I can only jump off the board and, at speed, end up jarring my ankles and heels when I hit the sand. You got any advice for injury free pull outs in shallow water?

Hi Kneelo

Shallow water on small waves is the easiest place to get hurt, exactly as you say.... jumping off and trying to land on your feet is a very easy way to really hurt something.

I am ALWAYS wearing a knee brace because my right knee is super weak, so any bad landing could end my surfing career.
So... I almost NEVER jump or step off in the shallows

I also never dive over the wave.
Why? when my feet leave the board, I lose control of it..... the wave can bounce it back into me.
So I always leave my feet on the board until I have me and the board in the safest position to avoid injury.

My feet tell me where the board is, and control where it goes.

To do this, I must "control my exit" by making my move before the wave takes control.
If I bail just 1 second early, I get to control the fall.
I generally kick the board forward, toward the shoulder, and fall flat, off the back of the board... INTO the wave, to cushion the fall.
Like and airbag... you don't need much depth to land safely if you can use the whitewater or the face of the wave to add depth to the water.
I keep my paddle between me and the board and up, so it goes under last to avoid falling on it.

This all takes awareness and practice, but is easy to learn.... just push the board forward as you fall back, keeping your feet ON the board till you are in the water (see pics)

My friends that dive over the back of the wave run the risk of breaking the board or get hit by the board as the wave bounces it into them. Once they leave the board, the wave can do some surprising things, like bounce it right back up at you as you dive over.

Hi Rick

As usual, thanks so much for the time, thought and pictures you put into your post. Really helpful.

Coincidentally, yesterday I did the last picture paddling late up a steep face. I went down and the nose of the board came up and smacked me fair in the ribs. Nothing broken but a bit sore today!

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chucktheskiffie said..
My second board was a 9'10 allwave, coming down from a 11'2 starboard avanti.

I am not as tall as you, but much heavier.

I still have that 9'10 and on occasion i'll still take it out when i feel like having a stable platform out there.

They don't make it anymore but that 9'8 replaced it. I'd recommend it. Its a good stepping stone for moving to something more in your range (prob around 160l or so), eventually.

Also about this:

KneeloMike said..

Then I can only jump off the board and, at speed, end up jarring my ankles and heels when I hit the sand. You got any advice for injury free pull outs in shallow water?

Please stop doing it.

I broke my leg three years ago doing this exact same thing. Snapped tib+fib, now i have a rod inside my bone.

I'm back surfing now, and my confidence has mostly returned, however, getting in is a real problem now as i absolutely refuse to be anywhere near the shallows when i'm getting off my board.

If know i am going to end up too close to the shallows, i just fall backwards into the whitewater. Make sure there is no-one around when you do that.

Hi Chuck. Hey sorry to hear you broke your leg so horribly. All the best for your recovery and getting your confidence back. I'm going to sear your story into my memory bank so that I pull out earlier and never, ever try jumping off my board in the shallows again.

Hey guys

Thanks heaps to you all on the 9'8" Fanatic Allwave which I picked up on Friday.

Very, very surprised how stable and comfortable the 187 litre, 33" wide Allwave is compared to my 235 litre, 34" wide Fanatic Fly. Only had it out in choppy mush so far and I think it handles mush better than the big board.

Surfing wise, I've got a lot of trial and error to do finding the sweet spots for my feet placement. At the moment I'm tending to either miss the wave or if I do get down the face catch my front, left rail when I try to turn right. I saw on a Supboarder video the Allwaves have a tendency to do that if you're not right with your footwork.

I'm watching every Allwave video I can find in slow motion checking out feet placement. Initially, just trying to drive it from the middle before graduating to the tail

Really excited about the Allwave. On my first surf, I actually managed one sweet bottom turn which was like a sneak preview of what's in store in future!

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KneeloMike said..

Hi Chuck. Hey sorry to hear you broke your leg so horribly. All the best for your recovery and getting your confidence back. I'm going to sear your story into my memory bank so that I pull out earlier and never, ever try jumping off my board in the shallows again.

Let me help you sear it into your memory.

The leg that i broke was my leash leg. So when i came up and my leg was all flopped to the side, before i could formulate a plan for making it up the beach, the next wave came along.... of course, i still had the leash on so it pulled my freshly broken leg with the force of a 160l board in the whitewash.

I'll kill a thousand puppies if it meant i never had to feel that again.

I got the leash off and dragged myself up the beach.

Hope this helps!!