Select to expand quote
colas said..Stingersup said..
Borrowed this idea from gliders.
The aim was to create another point for the water to more readily separate from the board, which has a fairly large flat bottom (sunova 6'8 downwind foil).
Then what you should do is find a way for the water to wet the hull in "sheets" rather than droplets.
Basically sand at 400 or 600 grit your hull. See "the board lady":
boardlady.com/fast.htm"In tests I was involved in for an America's Cup boat, we found that simply sanding a glossy bottom with 600 grit paper, reduced the surface friction by about 5% at ? hull speed, i.e. at about 4.5 knots."
Bad:

Good:

Aware of this data from windsurfing background, it really works. Try waxing your fin and the results are tragic. However....with our foil boards we are trying to break free of the surface and not achieve that laminar flow. So I thought, what the heck, the scientific method demands I test the hypothesis. So I went out w everything remaining the same, JP 7' Sup, Naish 2000 foil and 5.0 FOne Wing. First sesh, sanded finish, which I was already familiar with and is the norm. Back to beach and a quick wax job of the bottom and side bevels. Modified Brazilian. Water beaded like a showroom car. ;)
I definitely felt like the board was releasing sooner and was more slippery. How much more, hard to say, but it was noticeable. I'm thinking that we come up at such low speeds on a wing or sail w large foils that the 5% gain in speed from a sanded finish might be insignificant. But being able to break free of the laminar flow is everything, not to mention losing the water weight of water sticking to your sanded finish. Look at our wing boards or Sup's.... huge step tails or cutouts, beveled rails, shorter and shorter board lengths. It's all about unsticking. Would be curious to see what others find. I'm thinking more for freestyle type wind boards or wing boards w larger foils. Not so much for smaller racing foils and large planing surfaces.