Select to expand quote

JB said..

HBsups said..

JB said..
Here's a quick edit from some of the footage I got yesterday Wing Surfing out Palm Beach.

Super fun conditions, NE wind around 15kn, sunny and some fun bumps to play on.

Enjoy,

Ride safe,

JB

Cheers for the Vid JB. Enjoyed watching the super-smooth hand transitions. No need for a boom eh?!
HB

Thanks HB.

Being Seabreeze, not sure if there's sarcasm in the boom comment, but I'll take it as a positive

The whole boom vs loop thing is funny. The boom definitely has some positives, but I must say I love the lightweight, damage free (from hitting your board, foil or self), small pack-down, ergonomic angles, comfort and fast setup of the loop and strut wing.

This was a super fun session.

ride safe,

JB

Thanks JB
call it an attempt at a wry comment with positive intent. The video was a great reminder that the boom is not mandatory (and I'm in no position to take the Mickey!).
i appreciate the vids and all the great advice as I vacillate between heavier with boom and window vs lighter and more flexible with handles.
Cheers HB

Select to expand quote

Fishdude said..

JB said..

HBsups said..

JB said..
Here's a quick edit from some of the footage I got yesterday Wing Surfing out Palm Beach.

Super fun conditions, NE wind around 15kn, sunny and some fun bumps to play on.

Enjoy,

Ride safe,

JB

Cheers for the Vid JB. Enjoyed watching the super-smooth hand transitions. No need for a boom eh?!
HB

Thanks HB.

Being Seabreeze, not sure if there's sarcasm in the boom comment, but I'll take it as a positive

The whole boom vs loop thing is funny. The boom definitely has some positives, but I must say I love the lightweight, damage free (from hitting your board, foil or self), small pack-down, ergonomic angles, comfort and fast setup of the loop and strut wing.

This was a super fun session.

ride safe,

JB

Watching your video I couldn't help but notice how smooth you change hand positions. I did not see you look at the loops at all when you changed loops. Never trying a wing before this good to see. One of the a appeal of the boom in my mind is that I wouldn't have to look for the loops to change hand position. Nice to see that is not a big factor

Thanks FishDude,

Naish spent a lot of time getting the positions of the loops right, and they are generally right where you wan them. I think in the beginning whether on a boom or looped strut, you're going to be learning where you want your hands and having to look anyway. I find I know know combo's of loops that I just go straight to for different conditions and for different angles of riding to the wind. In many ways this is a far bigger advantage over the boom as on the boom you will have to look at where your hands are to ensure you're in the right spot, with the loops, you kind of just know (obviously once you've grabbed it).

I think I have explained it before, but in general I like to use (using F for Front hand, B for Back and the number is the number from that end) the following,

- alround reaching and cruzing 90% of the time. F2 and B3
- Nicely powered cranking up wind. F3 and B3 or sometimes B2
- Overpowered Upwind. F2 and B2 or if it's nuking B1
- Overpowered reaching or bearing away. F1 and B2
- DW. F1 and back hand anywhere really.

As these are set positions, you can literally just go straight there and know it's good. Not have to check a measurement on a boom, or guess the position.

It is also really easy to change loops once you're riding. So if you accidentally grab the wrong loop, just get going then once you're up and comfortable you can just sheet out for a split second and change loops. You know it is going to right and it only takes a second.

So much fun, this is going to change everything.

Enjoy,

Ride safe.

JB

Select to expand quote

HBsups said..

JB said..

HBsups said..

JB said..
Here's a quick edit from some of the footage I got yesterday Wing Surfing out Palm Beach.

Super fun conditions, NE wind around 15kn, sunny and some fun bumps to play on.

Enjoy,

Ride safe,

JB

Cheers for the Vid JB. Enjoyed watching the super-smooth hand transitions. No need for a boom eh?!
HB

Thanks HB.

Being Seabreeze, not sure if there's sarcasm in the boom comment, but I'll take it as a positive

The whole boom vs loop thing is funny. The boom definitely has some positives, but I must say I love the lightweight, damage free (from hitting your board, foil or self), small pack-down, ergonomic angles, comfort and fast setup of the loop and strut wing.

This was a super fun session.

ride safe,

JB

Thanks JB
call it an attempt at a wry comment with positive intent. The video was a great reminder that the boom is not mandatory (and I'm in no position to take the Mickey!).
i appreciate the vids and all the great advice as I vacillate between heavier with boom and window vs lighter and more flexible with handles.
Cheers HB

LOL. I always try take everything on here with a touch of humour. Thanks HB. But it is funny how protective some of the brands are about their booms. I have ridden the boom a few times, and it is really nice when everything is easy and squared up. But the loops just add so much dimension (and as I learned yesterday, save your board - watch out for those hard boom ends when learning, they're board killers ).

You're going to love it HB, it's everything the hype is making it out to be and more.

Ride safe,

JB

Here's another quick cut from the hours of footage from Sunday. This is kind of cool showing Matty following me upwind.

I am riding the Hover Foil 110. With JET 1650, Stab 320, Mast 75cm. And am riding switch stance (I am Goofy)
Matt is riding the Hover Foil 95, Jet HA 1800, Stab 320, Mast 85cm. Matty is Natural Stance.

Watch right at the end as he passes through my wind shadow. The Wing Surfers are super fun, but they definitely aren't efficient with their exhaust trail .

Enjoy,


Ride safe,

JB

Select to expand quote

CoreAS said..
You guys are well ahead of the curve using the wings, great post!

Has anyone got any experience with the Slingshot foil set up?

I use many different combos for windfoiling and have that dialed in but for the SUP/Foil board with a wing its all new.

I'm inland so no experience using the 7' 6" Out Wit and SS foil in the surf etc but had a good go last Sunday using the 4.2 Slingwing.
It wasn't quite enough wind to get feed back on the foil set up (forecast look grim as well).

On the foil I was using the 71cm mast, in C position with 84 front wing and 48 rear wing, my question(s)..

Do you prefer a shorter fuse?
Which fuse position when using SUP/foil board A,B or C
(I'm 179cm @ 90 kilos)

I have Slingshot 84 and H2. I've now had 2 sessions getting up on foil, yay. Unless it's nuking I think you will want maximum lift: 84 with and the mast as far forward as possible. I also had a buddy measure my angle of attack, mine was slightly downward, so I put in a shim on back bolts (4mm maybe). Now up and riding.

I am not sure how that translates to fuse length or fuse position though ... whatever leads to quicker more immediate lift. But hopefully someone with more experience on that will chime in.

Just back from Fiji on a 2 week trip with a couple of Ozone team riders and they had a Ozone Wasp 4m proto & and I had my Duotone 4m Wing Ding , here's my take on the pros and cons on the boom and different wings. First up you need to look at the comparison chart below of the wing shapes the Duotone is very different . Compared to the Wasp is had a massive leading edge and much more curve in the wing , in turn it made always want to lift off the water and rag doll when you were getting to your feet where as the Wasp would sit calmly on the water making it heaps easier to get to your feet. The Duotone had a ton more grunt and speed but the Wasp had more loft and easier to control. I did struggle with the handles at first , I was very used to just sliding my hands on the boom plus you can also stop the wing from twisting and rolling down by boom grip. I also really missed the window especially running down wind with the wing in front of my face. I found the loops good for hand position but found I needed my hands back to get up on the foil then bring them forward one loop once I was up , this caused a few crashes loosing control of the wing , I sure with experience that would change.

As far as the boom causing damage that was no issue at all , yes the wasp was lighter but you need to remember the Duotone is strutless so there is a weight saving there. As we were based on a boat the Duotone was really fast to rig and de rig you just rolled the wing to the boom centre and it deflated super quick with no center strut. Travel wise it was fine was apx same size as my paddle in a bag and just slipped inside my sup cover with my paddle , you could collapse the boom to make it shorter but I didn't need to. I also left in the battens and again that's another feature of the Doutone making the wing stiffer. So which wing did I prefer the Wasp was great and easy to use definitely can't knock it but I really missed the window and the freedom of sliding my hands on the Boom plus it just didn't have the top end of the Duotone.

I was riding my JP 6-8 x 26 -96 litre & NP XL wing with 75 Carbon mast.

That's my 2 Bobs

Select to expand quote

Piros said..
Just back from Fiji on a 2 week trip with a couple of Ozone team riders and they had a Ozone Wasp 4m proto & and I had my Duotone 4m Wing Ding , here's my take on the pros and cons on the boom and different wings. First up you need to look at the comparison chart below of the wing shapes the Duotone is very different . Compared to the Wasp is had a massive leading edge and much more curve in the wing , in turn it made always want to lift off the water and rag doll when you were getting to your feet where as the Wasp would sit calmly on the water making it heaps easier to get to your feet. The Duotone had a ton more grunt and speed but the Wasp had more loft and easier to control. I did struggle with the handles at first , I was very used to just sliding my hands on the boom plus you can also stop the wing from twisting and rolling down by boom grip. I also really missed the window especially running down wind with the wing in front of my face. I found the loops good for hand position but found I needed my hands back to get up on the foil then bring them forward one loop once I was up , this caused a few crashes loosing control of the wing , I sure with experience that would change.

As far as the boom causing damage that was no issue at all , yes the wasp was lighter but you need to remember the Duotone is strutless so there is a weight saving there. As we were based on a boat the Duotone was really fast to rig and de rig you just rolled the wing to the boom centre and it deflated super quick with no center strut. Travel wise it was fine was apx same size as my paddle in a bag and just slipped inside my sup cover with my paddle , you could collapse the boom to make it shorter but I didn't need to. I also left in the battens and again that's another feature of the Doutone making the wing stiffer. So which wing did I prefer the Wasp was great and easy to use definitely can't knock it but I really missed the window and the freedom of sliding my hands on the Boom plus it just didn't have the top end of the Duotone.

I was riding my JP 6-8 x 26 -96 litre & NP XL wing with 75 Carbon mast.

That's my 2 Bobs

Some good insights from someone coming from the other-side of the fence (as in you learnt on the boom). And I think what ever you learn on and get used to you will likely prefer unless you feel you have to change for a given reason. I haven't seen the WASP in the flesh yet, or weighed it. But I know Wingsurfer is freaken light in comparison to boomed model (>500g lighter). Not sure about the window need, but I guess it can't hurt if it was a lighter material. I can't say I used it when I used the Duotone wings, but again I'm used to not having it.

Booms - Time will tell I guess. There is strong positives in both directions here. I have no issues with the loops.

Exciting times. These are the first "real" generation of production water use Wings and they are amazing. I am blown away at how easy, fun, fast and exciting they are to use. And we haven't even really started to really explore what they can do.

Watch this space.

BTW, ripping Piros! Yew!!!!

Ride safe,

JB

Select to expand quote

juandesooka said..

CoreAS said..
You guys are well ahead of the curve using the wings, great post!

Has anyone got any experience with the Slingshot foil set up?

I use many different combos for windfoiling and have that dialed in but for the SUP/Foil board with a wing its all new.

I'm inland so no experience using the 7' 6" Out Wit and SS foil in the surf etc but had a good go last Sunday using the 4.2 Slingwing.
It wasn't quite enough wind to get feed back on the foil set up (forecast look grim as well).

On the foil I was using the 71cm mast, in C position with 84 front wing and 48 rear wing, my question(s)..

Do you prefer a shorter fuse?
Which fuse position when using SUP/foil board A,B or C
(I'm 179cm @ 90 kilos)

I have Slingshot 84 and H2. I've now had 2 sessions getting up on foil, yay. Unless it's nuking I think you will want maximum lift: 84 with and the mast as far forward as possible. I also had a buddy measure my angle of attack, mine was slightly downward, so I put in a shim on back bolts (4mm maybe). Now up and riding.

I am not sure how that translates to fuse length or fuse position though ... whatever leads to quicker more immediate lift. But hopefully someone with more experience on that will chime in.

I agree the 84 wing is a great all rounder. I will definitely move the foil mast further forward next time but the fuselage position is bit of a head scratcher compared to wind foiling?

The distance from the wind foiling Tuttle box to SUP slot boxes is pretty major. The infinity 99 front wings will be arriving soon, so this will hopefully give an edge in the lighter airs.

Anybody know the Size and litters Kai Lenny is using on the Ozone promotion video ?

I see wing designs splitting between high tech, and recreational.

The high tech path will be carbon booms, with on-the-fly adjustable outhaul. More range than possible without it. Airframes that don't distort under higher loads, jumping, racing, with harness lines, etc.

I'm already building my carbon boom with adjustable outhaul. No pin adjustment required. Just fixed length light carbon tube with grip. This one boom will work with 5m and 4m. I will build another one for the 3m.

Select to expand quote

DWF said..
The high tech path will be carbon booms, with on-the-fly adjustable outhaul. More range than possible without it. Airframes that don't distort under higher loads, jumping, racing, with harness lines, etc.

From my long time windsurfing experience, I think progress will be made with computer simulations on how the wings distorts, and create wings that distort into efficient shapes. That's what happened with windsurfing sails, the revolution came with the "floppy leech" sails that changed dramatically shape as the wind increased, to stay efficient rather than just balooning, away from the attempts to get a rig as rigid as possible (we even saw solid hard sails at one time).

Select to expand quote

colas said..

DWF said..
The high tech path will be carbon booms, with on-the-fly adjustable outhaul. More range than possible without it. Airframes that don't distort under higher loads, jumping, racing, with harness lines, etc.

From my long time windsurfing experience, I think progress will be made with computer simulations on how the wings distorts, and create wings that distort into efficient shapes. That's what happened with windsurfing sails, the revolution came with the "floppy leech" sails that changed dramatically shape as the wind increased, to stay efficient rather than just balooning, away from the attempts to get a rig as rigid as possible (we even saw solid hard sails at one time).

Let's see what news North Sails comes with this year.

Select to expand quote

colas said..
From my long time windsurfing experience........

These are more like hang gliders though.

I was a hang glider pilot in the early years of the sport and saw where the big leaps in performance came from.

It was tensioned crossbars eliminating as much wing tip twist (leach washout) as possible. Super high rig tension. Then releasing tension, for low stall speed and safer landings.

We can see in Slingshot's design, they are trying to reduce the leach washout with the inflated trailing edge. That's showing hang glider design principles are more applicable than windsurf sail.

Select to expand quote

DWF said..
These are more like hang gliders though.

Or you could argue that the revolution was going from hang gliding to the fully soft sails of paragliding...
Granted, there was a loss of performance, but progress is not all about performance (otherwise all sailboarders would use camber sails).

Select to expand quote

Windgenuity said..

Fishdude said..

JB said..

HBsups said..

JB said..
Here's a quick edit from some of the footage I got yesterday Wing Surfing out Palm Beach.

Super fun conditions, NE wind around 15kn, sunny and some fun bumps to play on.

Enjoy,

Ride safe,

JB

Cheers for the Vid JB. Enjoyed watching the super-smooth hand transitions. No need for a boom eh?!
HB

Thanks HB.

Being Seabreeze, not sure if there's sarcasm in the boom comment, but I'll take it as a positive

The whole boom vs loop thing is funny. The boom definitely has some positives, but I must say I love the lightweight, damage free (from hitting your board, foil or self), small pack-down, ergonomic angles, comfort and fast setup of the loop and strut wing.

This was a super fun session.

ride safe,

JB

Watching your video I couldn't help but notice how smooth you change hand positions. I did not see you look at the loops at all when you changed loops. Never trying a wing before this good to see. One of the a appeal of the boom in my mind is that I wouldn't have to look for the loops to change hand position. Nice to see that is not a big factor

Thanks FishDude,

Naish spent a lot of time getting the positions of the loops right, and they are generally right where you wan them. I think in the beginning whether on a boom or looped strut, you're going to be learning where you want your hands and having to look anyway. I find I know know combo's of loops that I just go straight to for different conditions and for different angles of riding to the wind. In many ways this is a far bigger advantage over the boom as on the boom you will have to look at where your hands are to ensure you're in the right spot, with the loops, you kind of just know (obviously once you've grabbed it).

I think I have explained it before, but in general I like to use (using F for Front hand, B for Back and the number is the number from that end) the following,

- alround reaching and cruzing 90% of the time. F2 and B3
- Nicely powered cranking up wind. F3 and B3 or sometimes B2
- Overpowered Upwind. F2 and B2 or if it's nuking B1
- Overpowered reaching or bearing away. F1 and B2
- DW. F1 and back hand anywhere really.

As these are set positions, you can literally just go straight there and know it's good. Not have to check a measurement on a boom, or guess the position.

It is also really easy to change loops once you're riding. So if you accidentally grab the wrong loop, just get going then once you're up and comfortable you can just sheet out for a split second and change loops. You know it is going to right and it only takes a second.

So much fun, this is going to change everything.

Enjoy,

Ride safe.

JB

Hey JB
Your paddle attached to the handles are you holding the paddle or the grab handles.
With the paddle blade extending out past the leading edge is that an issue safety wise.
I set it up today like yours but removed it a bit concerned about how it extended past the leading Edge.Probs just have to get used to it or do without .
Suppose all depends on your location and the odd paddle back when the wind drops.

Select to expand quote

DWF said..

colas said..
From my long time windsurfing experience........

These are more like hang gliders though.

I was a hang glider pilot in the early years of the sport and saw where the big leaps in performance came from.

It was tensioned crossbars eliminating as much wing tip twist (leach washout) as possible. Super high rig tension. Then releasing tension, for low stall speed and safer landings.

We can see in Slingshot's design, they are trying to reduce the leach washout with the inflated trailing edge. That's showing hang glider design principles are more applicable than windsurf sail.

I am not sure that you can compare this wing things with any previous sail or aerodynamic design. The dihedral flexibility of the Leading Edge changes every previous approach.
It gets much worse, by divided with canopy attached struts I actually think we have to talk here abouth two (upper and lower) profiles which makes the approach even more difficult.

I also think that a design with no strut have advantages at least speed wise when the wind attack of the leading edge is not exactly 90 degrees because the efficient use of the whole wing surface as profile.
Otherwise the gore on the strut can lead the wind flow in correct profile direction and increase efficiency. Who knows...

Ive added a wing section to the foil data spreadsheet, feel free to change anything Ive got wrong.

docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17xbTGEWSVeRhnYb_4vz_Gmby8UnrDys7Q1iB-6rC6F4/edit#gid=2011870839

Select to expand quote

LeighMajor said..

Windgenuity said..

Fishdude said..

JB said..

HBsups said..

JB said..
Here's a quick edit from some of the footage I got yesterday Wing Surfing out Palm Beach.

Super fun conditions, NE wind around 15kn, sunny and some fun bumps to play on.

Enjoy,

Ride safe,

JB

Cheers for the Vid JB. Enjoyed watching the super-smooth hand transitions. No need for a boom eh?!
HB

Thanks HB.

Being Seabreeze, not sure if there's sarcasm in the boom comment, but I'll take it as a positive

The whole boom vs loop thing is funny. The boom definitely has some positives, but I must say I love the lightweight, damage free (from hitting your board, foil or self), small pack-down, ergonomic angles, comfort and fast setup of the loop and strut wing.

This was a super fun session.

ride safe,

JB

Watching your video I couldn't help but notice how smooth you change hand positions. I did not see you look at the loops at all when you changed loops. Never trying a wing before this good to see. One of the a appeal of the boom in my mind is that I wouldn't have to look for the loops to change hand position. Nice to see that is not a big factor

Thanks FishDude,

Naish spent a lot of time getting the positions of the loops right, and they are generally right where you wan them. I think in the beginning whether on a boom or looped strut, you're going to be learning where you want your hands and having to look anyway. I find I know know combo's of loops that I just go straight to for different conditions and for different angles of riding to the wind. In many ways this is a far bigger advantage over the boom as on the boom you will have to look at where your hands are to ensure you're in the right spot, with the loops, you kind of just know (obviously once you've grabbed it).

I think I have explained it before, but in general I like to use (using F for Front hand, B for Back and the number is the number from that end) the following,

- alround reaching and cruzing 90% of the time. F2 and B3
- Nicely powered cranking up wind. F3 and B3 or sometimes B2
- Overpowered Upwind. F2 and B2 or if it's nuking B1
- Overpowered reaching or bearing away. F1 and B2
- DW. F1 and back hand anywhere really.

As these are set positions, you can literally just go straight there and know it's good. Not have to check a measurement on a boom, or guess the position.

It is also really easy to change loops once you're riding. So if you accidentally grab the wrong loop, just get going then once you're up and comfortable you can just sheet out for a split second and change loops. You know it is going to right and it only takes a second.

So much fun, this is going to change everything.

Enjoy,

Ride safe.

JB

Hey JB
Your paddle attached to the handles are you holding the paddle or the grab handles.
With the paddle blade extending out past the leading edge is that an issue safety wise.
I set it up today like yours but removed it a bit concerned about how it extended past the leading Edge.Probs just have to get used to it or do without .
Suppose all depends on your location and the odd paddle back when the wind drops.

Hey LM,

I am kind of holding both. You really only just hook your fingers round the loops once you're comfortable, so you're not really gripping anything super tight. I really doubt the paddle could cause any damage in most cases, but there's always a chance when you add something hard. I only take my paddle with me if I am going far from shore, or know I am at risk on not being able to sail back. If I'm just riding back and forth, no need for it. You can simply prone paddle back a short distance with ease.

JB

Greetings All

Trying to get on foil with my Naish wingsurfer 4m.
Board: Takuma ZK 7'5"
Foil: Neil Pryde Large

All previous foil experience is behind the boat, both with and without rope. In the wake, I have the foil pushed all the way back in the tracks. Would it help getting on foil with the wingsurfer pushing the foil to the frontmost position?

which rear stabilizer and in which position will give me the best (easiest) way to get up on foil?

Two sessions in, first was a beat-down. Second was much better, was generating some lift, but winds were gusty.

thanks in advance for the advice!

On my 7' 4", my mast, at the middle is 21" from tail. Lifts off nicely :)

Ok. Anyone with the NP glidesurf? Small or large rear stab? Washer in front or in back?

thanks

On Neil Pryde for the Wing Ding or Sup I'm large wing front and back no washer BUT you could try a washer under the back bolt on the rear wing to make it down tilted , this is from the NP site .

"Foil is perfectly trimmed for average weight rider (75- 80kg) with tail in neutral position. Heavier riders, especially in light winds or during the learning process might prefer slightly more stabilizing force that a down tilted rear wing provides. Also, this down-angled position increases low-end power and lift of the foil."

Select to expand quote

Windgenuity said..

LeighMajor said..

Windgenuity said..

Fishdude said..

JB said..

HBsups said..

JB said..
Here's a quick edit from some of the footage I got yesterday Wing Surfing out Palm Beach.

Super fun conditions, NE wind around 15kn, sunny and some fun bumps to play on.

Enjoy,

Ride safe,

JB

Cheers for the Vid JB. Enjoyed watching the super-smooth hand transitions. No need for a boom eh?!
HB

Thanks HB.

Being Seabreeze, not sure if there's sarcasm in the boom comment, but I'll take it as a positive

The whole boom vs loop thing is funny. The boom definitely has some positives, but I must say I love the lightweight, damage free (from hitting your board, foil or self), small pack-down, ergonomic angles, comfort and fast setup of the loop and strut wing.

This was a super fun session.

ride safe,

JB

Watching your video I couldn't help but notice how smooth you change hand positions. I did not see you look at the loops at all when you changed loops. Never trying a wing before this good to see. One of the a appeal of the boom in my mind is that I wouldn't have to look for the loops to change hand position. Nice to see that is not a big factor

Thanks FishDude,

Naish spent a lot of time getting the positions of the loops right, and they are generally right where you wan them. I think in the beginning whether on a boom or looped strut, you're going to be learning where you want your hands and having to look anyway. I find I know know combo's of loops that I just go straight to for different conditions and for different angles of riding to the wind. In many ways this is a far bigger advantage over the boom as on the boom you will have to look at where your hands are to ensure you're in the right spot, with the loops, you kind of just know (obviously once you've grabbed it).

I think I have explained it before, but in general I like to use (using F for Front hand, B for Back and the number is the number from that end) the following,

- alround reaching and cruzing 90% of the time. F2 and B3
- Nicely powered cranking up wind. F3 and B3 or sometimes B2
- Overpowered Upwind. F2 and B2 or if it's nuking B1
- Overpowered reaching or bearing away. F1 and B2
- DW. F1 and back hand anywhere really.

As these are set positions, you can literally just go straight there and know it's good. Not have to check a measurement on a boom, or guess the position.

It is also really easy to change loops once you're riding. So if you accidentally grab the wrong loop, just get going then once you're up and comfortable you can just sheet out for a split second and change loops. You know it is going to right and it only takes a second.

So much fun, this is going to change everything.

Enjoy,

Ride safe.

JB

Hey JB
Your paddle attached to the handles are you holding the paddle or the grab handles.
With the paddle blade extending out past the leading edge is that an issue safety wise.
I set it up today like yours but removed it a bit concerned about how it extended past the leading Edge.Probs just have to get used to it or do without .
Suppose all depends on your location and the odd paddle back when the wind drops.

Hey LM,

I am kind of holding both. You really only just hook your fingers round the loops once you're comfortable, so you're not really gripping anything super tight. I really doubt the paddle could cause any damage in most cases, but there's always a chance when you add something hard. I only take my paddle with me if I am going far from shore, or know I am at risk on not being able to sail back. If I'm just riding back and forth, no need for it. You can simply prone paddle back a short distance with ease.

JB

Thanks JB
Yes totally agree unless going a fair distance take the paddle.Generally just back and forth short distances can do without and any problems just prone paddle in.
Its a buzz this wind wing gig.
Quite a few variables.

Foil mounted at front of tracks best for pointing high and for easy lift?

thanks

Select to expand quote

Piros said..
On Neil Pryde for the Wing Ding or Sup I'm large wing front and back no washer BUT you could try a washer under the back bolt on the rear wing to make it down tilted , this is from the NP site .

"Foil is perfectly trimmed for average weight rider (75- 80kg) with tail in neutral position. Heavier riders, especially in light winds or during the learning process might prefer slightly more stabilizing force that a down tilted rear wing provides. Also, this down-angled position increases low-end power and lift of the foil."

Just trying to help... I think down angle or rear of wing up on the stabilizer Will give more lift.
Washer under front bolt

Select to expand quote

Winsup said..

Piros said..
On Neil Pryde for the Wing Ding or Sup I'm large wing front and back no washer BUT you could try a washer under the back bolt on the rear wing to make it down tilted , this is from the NP site .

"Foil is perfectly trimmed for average weight rider (75- 80kg) with tail in neutral position. Heavier riders, especially in light winds or during the learning process might prefer slightly more stabilizing force that a down tilted rear wing provides. Also, this down-angled position increases low-end power and lift of the foil."

Just trying to help... I think down angle or rear of wing up on the stabilizer Will give more lift.
Washer under front bolt

For more lift, you want your rear to drive downward. Washer under the rear bolt achieves this (stab drive down equals increase angle of attack on front wing = more effective lift).

Washer under the font bolt achieves the opposite. Stab drive upward equals decrease in angle of attack on front wing = less effective lift.

JB

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Windgenuity said..

Winsup said..

Piros said..
On Neil Pryde for the Wing Ding or Sup I'm large wing front and back no washer BUT you could try a washer under the back bolt on the rear wing to make it down tilted , this is from the NP site .

"Foil is perfectly trimmed for average weight rider (75- 80kg) with tail in neutral position. Heavier riders, especially in light winds or during the learning process might prefer slightly more stabilizing force that a down tilted rear wing provides. Also, this down-angled position increases low-end power and lift of the foil."

Just trying to help... I think down angle or rear of wing up on the stabilizer Will give more lift.
Washer under front bolt

For more lift, you want your rear to drive downward. Washer under the rear bolt achieves this (stab drive down equals increase angle of attack on front wing = more effective lift).

Washer under the font bolt achieves the opposite. Stab drive upward equals decrease in angle of attack on front wing = less effective lift.

JB

With respect what I said the rear wing pushes down in the NP thread.
Shim the front if it's underneath like NP or the back of its on the top of the fuselage
This was all discussed by you guy's back in January

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Winsup said..
With respect what I said the rear wing pushes down in the NP thread.
Shim the front if it's underneath like NP or the back of its on the top of the fuselage
This was all discussed by you guy's back in January

I deleted my comment because it changes when tail is on top or below.

I know this thread is in the SUP forum, but have any of you guys with wind wings tried them out on smaller kite size foil boards? I have an surf/sup foil (axis 820) but only a 30L volume board. Will this be difficult to use a wing with?

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daniel_y said..
I know this thread is in the SUP forum, but have any of you guys with wind wings tried them out on smaller kite size foil boards? I have an surf/sup foil (axis 820) but only a 30L volume board. Will this be difficult to use a wing with?

I have only used mine on a 108ltr SUP with 1020 or 900 Axis foils, however I do have kite foil boards as well.

It would need to be much stronger winds and you would need to be good at pumping both the foil and the wing to get going.
Also it would be very difficult if strapless, if good enough I am sure you could get going on a submerged strapped kite foilboard with a lot of effort pumping the kitewing and board until you gained enough momentum to get up and foiling.

Not worth the effort IMO, using a 820 wing would be hard enough on a SUP and because you would have to be well powered up to get going on a 30ltr board you would be overpowered when you did get foiling anyway.

I did see footage of someone doing it somewhere though.