Select to expand quote
Gorgo said..
I really like the idea of surfing "non-surfable" waves. But none of the videos show taking off on a non-surfable wave. The take off is always a perfectly decent peak that peters out and they keep riding.
It seems there are many solutions to this:
- Onshore winds help. A little chop on the top of a non-breaking wave is enough to get going.
- Also, if you look at Kai Lenny and some others, they can now pump to takeoff
- A longer board, 9' - 10' paddles faster, and can take off on flatter swells
- Straps help. I can tilt my body forward after 2-3 paddle strokes, pushing on the front foot and pulling on the strap with the rear foot to actually trigger the takeoff in a more reliable way for my abilities than pumping
Note also that pumping is nothing like the "Huntington hop". As Gorgo said, pumping something that stays in laminar flow is exhilarating, it is like how birds use their wings. The difference is like between the feet movement in swimming vs using a big monofin, or in skating, pumping while lifting the front truck or not. And you pump in "3D" with the foil, actually surfing the underwater wave