Slyde mate I feel your dilemma.


I am experiencing the same as you.
But, what I have noticed is that it can be different on different breaks.
The worst for me are the sucky waves that pull you hard backwards on a fairly steep wall.
Other breaks can be quite pushy. You can paddle forwards before the wave catches up to you & it doesn't take much to get up & going & if you are energetic enough to paddle hard at the right time then the board can lift, pick up speed & you will be up & flying before it breaks. But that is a very rare moment for me at this stage.

But like the others have said above. Its more about technique than speed which is learnt after some time. Just like those pro surfers who do just 2 paddles to get onto a wave. How do they do it!?

My board has a lot of nose rocker & I knew that it was going to be very, very slow on the paddle speed due to it pushing water instead of gliding over & separating water like a low rocker board. But it doesn't take much to get the nose rocker above the water surface with a foil underneath which has kind of turbo charged my board.
Another thing I have noticed as a beginner is that I tend to keep the nose of the board down as I try & catch a wave only to miss it & just after the crest of the wave passes me I lean back a little to find that the foil engages & lifts me up when its too late. So it is this I have to work on just as I feel the forward push of a rolling swell. That is to hop up as you do in a pump & point the nose up & forward maybe more than once to disengage the board from the surface of the water to be able to get an increase in speed. Easier said than done. But I plan to work on this in a good easy break. Not in a surf with other elements against me such as side & wind chop, back sucky waves & bigger than normal waves.
I have just got a medium wing to try out so I know that it will be even more difficult to get up on the fly. But hoping when going back to the large wing that I will be able to get up on the fly before the wave breaks.