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eppo said..
question...why would you not be on a SB in that perfect barrel? ...
Two reasons. Any surfer at that level can ride a barrel on a short board. It's good but it's not unique.
With any new device or tool you get people going "I wonder what would happen if I tried this?" That's how you get progress.
Imagine all the crew in the late 60's saying, why do you want a board that short? You can't hang your toes. You can't walk up and down. You'll get hit in the head by the wave if you don't duck. Oh, look, he ducked.