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surfinJ said..
The homeboys weren't sharing the stoke to see a standup foil swooping across the lineup, I'm sure.
You bet, I heard Gibus de Soultrait (famous controversial local figure, long time director of a French surfing mag) went ape**** over this and wrote an angry formal letter to Laird on the tune of "Never again!"
For me, the Foil appeal is in the technical challenge. I am not sure I will keep doing it once I have proven to me that I can do it. The good news is that the road to master it seems quite long :-)
As JB said, it depends on the spots at hand. Foiling in surfable waves is a bit "Meh"... but foiling on choppy, fast, non-breaking swells has a definite kind of magic.
From what I experienced, and by discussing with experts, with foiling you are "walking on eggs" constantly and in a state of control. In modern style surfing, you can get loose by pushing of all your strength on the wave force, a different kind of pleasure, more primal. I guess foiling may appeal more to people that already like downwinding and noseriding, that are a bit also precision-oriented.
As for weak mushy waves, I don't know. Modern light SUPs (ultra-short or ultra-long) are now able to make these conditions quite fun also, you do not need a foil. Plus small waves are not so fun with a foil: you need some minimal speed, and hitting the bottom can be very bad news... Monday I had a session in crappy, choppy tight-high waves, me in foil, and a friend on a small SUP, he was definitively having much more fun than me, the waves were too slow for my level (Kai Lenny would have pumped all over them), and the stress of not hitting the bottom plus avoiding being in the wrong place at the wrong time when a wave tubed unexpectedly was not really my idea of having fun in the long term, once the technical challenge is overcome.
Add to this the danger of it. Nothing compared to using a kitefoil, but still present: Hitting the foil, and choosing either to use straps with their potential danger of getting stuck, or not using them, and raising a lot the number of dangerous falls on the foil. Plus the costs...
Yet, I definitely think that foiling will attract the kind of bozos that will endanger themselves and others to show off. Just like with kiteboarding, people coming close to the beach to jump over bathers to impress the chicks ... and have kiteboarding banned after the first accident.