I see it.. is that old paint oil based?

What i mean to say is,
It needs a light sand and wash down with soapy water. Then oil based undercoat?

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mangrovefrog said...
I see it.. is that old paint oil based?

original. I have a good two pack primer that goes over any thing just need to give the surface a scrub with some scowing pad which I have on board Ill srpay the surface next weekend with some vinegar that will remove any mold thats around

Ive sprayed two pack.. best way, no time for brushing that stuff on..
Will see how the weather develops

I would use flowcoat with a little extra wax in stirine. You can brush it on thick in just one coat.

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southace said...
I would use flowcoat with a little extra wax in stirine. You can brush it on thick in just one coat.

Now thats a very nice idea southace thanks mate thats the finish I was after

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HG02 said...

Hi HG

It is interesting that yours has internal ribs in the hull where as mine doesn't

I wonder if the H28's were designed to be a bit stronger than the Sailmasters

Regards Don

I notice that also Donk. From what Ive read it appears Kahn wanted to update the design and time progressed maybe indoing what hes done to the sailmaster it sail faster with less weight. He did change the keel from fully length to 3/4 and tidied up the stern also .He was a good boat builder I would never think any boat he ever made was not strong enough thats for sure.
Mine has the steel framed engine mounts as well where I think yours had glassed in mounts


An example of another job on the list

Hi HG

Yep

My bolts screw ointo something inside the glass (Not sure exactly what)

Also mine was built in Tassie by Central Marine (so i have been told buit there is no paperwork to confirm this) not in Geelong so perhaps different builders had the own way of doing things

Regards Don

Some Walker H28 were built with solid engine mounts and there were some build with engine mounts like mine
Maybe you sail master was a kit finished off in Tassy But I reasonably sure the sail masters all had the glassed in engine bearers Wish mine did If I ever pull the engine put it will have for sure . The solid mounted Walkers transfer the noise a bit more

I was trained as a timber finnisher... as they say, if you can coat timber... you can coat anything.
A nice one coat will suit most applications buut. Id like to guarrantee my job for the ten tweny years, i can simply read up how to paint fibreglass then theres the issue of humidity and temperature!!! I havnt brushed up on this flow paint, i can just do as told. The two pack i know i can mix every twenty minutes and try to slap it on.. if not try a stick of dynamite in the drum!!

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mangrovefrog said...
I was trained as a timber finnisher... as they say, if you can coat timber... you can coat anything.
A nice one coat will suit most applications buut. Id like to guarrantee my job for the ten tweny years, i can simply read up how to paint fibreglass then theres the issue of humidity and temperature!!! I havnt brushed up on this flow paint, i can just do as told. The two pack i know i can mix every twenty minutes and try to slap it on.. if not try a stick of dynamite in the drum!!

Flow coat is similar to gel coat only easier to use Mangrove I know a place not far from work that sell it Ill drop in there plus my mate at work just redid his stern on a cabin cruiser with glass and flow coat I think Southace also said to add a thickener which is what I want to do to give the interior hull some smoothness and eventually a white clean finish

Oakay, i know it now.. i will need plenty of acetone, icecream containers, rags and a brand new brush

Wax in styrene doesn't make it thicker .....it thins out the wax so you can add it to the gelcoat...

when you put the flowcoat on , the wax floats to the surface removing air and cures the gelcoat... If you buy it from the shop already as flowcoat this means the wax in styrene has already been added.....it's possible to add another cap full just to make it more waxy. to thicken it I use to just leave the lid off for a hour before use therefor allowing the styrene to evaporate and the flowcoat may thicken a bit. A light grey flowcoat can make the job look really smart.

Reading up on the flowcoat application,
Best applied between 18 to mid 20's degrees.
And that the surface to be painted and the flowcoat should be of similar temperature so it'd meld the brush strokes evenly..
I wonder, say as the first batch is curing and brush cleaned and new batch made... do i overlap the first flowcoated section? Or am i best try to cover the full panel sections to the edges to camoflage the different batches?
Thanks.

you cannot overcoat once it has harden unless you sand it to remove the wax. You can use 500ml of float coat with 12.5 ml of catlisyst that pot life will be about 40 mins in less than 20 degrees. Or if you use heater it will be half At 20 min pot life. Mix the catlisyst and flowcoat 60 times in pot and use big wide brush to slap it on.
In winter you should be able to make two batches of 500ml to do your job without worrying about cleaning brush or doing a section at a time. however if the first batch starts to gel in the pot yes you will need a new brush and a cleaned pot.

once finished its good to put some warmth on it if you have a small heater.

Thank you Southace,
All that much clearer now.
One more thing to be mindful of, i copied and will paste,
if you have to use paint , then its fine to paint over gelcoat or flow coat. The reverse cannot happen though , the flowcoat or gelcoat will cause the paint to fry up - any acrylic , or enamel air dry will have the worst reaction , 2 pack and other variations will do the same , but no where near as severe .
Regards.