Just like your prop is flogged out, I think you are flogging a dead horse in trying to resurrect it with any type of epoxy compound. While these products are very good for their intended purpose this is definitely not one of those purposes.

The engine is putting out more power than what any epoxy based material is going to be capable of absorbing, lets face it, if it flogged out the original metal it will have no problem flogging out some plastic putty.

Realistically your only options are to see if the manufacturer can rebuild the worn metal and then machine it back to specs or to replace the prop as has already been suggested. I think that the cost of rebuilding the prop is not cost effective compared to replacing it altogether.

Select to expand quote

LooseChange said..

Just like your prop is flogged out, I think you are flogging a dead horse in trying to resurrect it with any type of epoxy compound. While these products are very good for their intended purpose this is definitely not one of those purposes.

The engine is putting out more power than what any epoxy based material is going to be capable of absorbing, lets face it, if it flogged out the original metal it will have no problem flogging out some plastic putty.

Realistically your only options are to see if the manufacturer can rebuild the worn metal and then machine it back to specs or to replace the prop as has already been suggested. I think that the cost of rebuilding the prop is not cost effective compared to replacing it altogether.

I think you right loose change patching might last a very short time

Select to expand quote

Devcon was the product I was thinking of its a two pack epoxy hard as ten women s Hearts Ha Ha

I have used Devcon, they use it in the mining industry, very good stuff.

This might be a silly suggestion but in the interim could you just get the blades welded in the unfolded position.

I haven't had much experience with props, however I do know that you need to be really careful adding or removing material to something mounted on a rotating shaft at any serious RPM. Adding even a small amount of mass (weld, epoxy bog etc) at any distance from the shaft center is likely to cause balance problems on the shaft, unless you are able to add it perfectly evenly around the shaft -pretty hard to do.

Shafts out of balance will chew out fixed bearings at a fair rate.

Given that its a displacement cruising hull, I would think that a fixed blade prop would be the easiest, cheapest solution.

Select to expand quote

keensailor said..
This might be a silly suggestion but in the interim could you just get the blades welded in the unfolded position.

I think the bronze in that prop would be so polluted that brazing would not take to it.

Select to expand quote

cisco said..

I think the bronze in that prop would be so polluted that brazing would not take to it.

Not so sure about that Cisco, bronze unlike brass doesn't go all carroty and porous. In brass the zinc leaches out in no time at all but the tin in bronze is classed as a noble metal which is why it is favoured as a marine metal.

The biggest problem I see is if you try to weld it, each blade MUST be in exactly the same position relative to the others to avoid an out of balance problem, which if it were to occur would see the boat shaking its arse to bits.

Select to expand quote

cisco said..

keensailor said..
This might be a silly suggestion but in the interim could you just get the blades welded in the unfolded position.

I think the bronze in that prop would be so polluted that brazing would not take to it.

Thank just bought it

Select to expand quote

LooseChange said..

cisco said..

I think the bronze in that prop would be so polluted that brazing would not take to it.

Not so sure about that Cisco, bronze unlike brass doesn't go all carroty and porous. In brass the zinc leaches out in no time at all but the tin in bronze is classed as a noble metal which is why it is favoured as a marine metal.

The biggest problem I see is if you try to weld it, each blade MUST be in exactly the same position relative to the others to avoid an out of balance problem, which if it were to occur would see the boat shaking its arse to bits.

Off the topic Cisco but I went down and had a look at this today having a look over it tomorrow needs some work
http://yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/walker-h28/76732
Im having a look at another on Saturday

The thanks was for the ebay book boat link

Looks good. The Walker H28s have a great reputation. All boats need work.

Look at the meaning of the word BOAT.

Boat
Owners
Always
Toil

OR,


Bring
On
Another
Thousand

That's OK HG02

Select to expand quote

RiffRaff said..

OR,


Bring
On
Another
Thousand

Select to expand quote

cisco said..

Looks good. The Walker H28s have a great reputation. All boats need work.

Look at the meaning of the word BOAT.

Boat
Owners
Always
Toil

http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=16638086&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=2&eapi=2 any ideas on this (info) TW based
www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=16236840&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=0&eapi=2 > sent an enquirery
www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=15852033&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=0&eapi=2 > looking at this one on Saturday

Select to expand quote

LooseChange said..

cisco said..

I think the bronze in that prop would be so polluted that brazing would not take to it.

Not so sure about that Cisco, bronze unlike brass doesn't go all carroty and porous. In brass the zinc leaches out in no time at all but the tin in bronze is classed as a noble metal which is why it is favoured as a marine metal.

The biggest problem I see is if you try to weld it, each blade MUST be in exactly the same position relative to the others to avoid an out of balance problem, which if it were to occur would see the boat shaking its arse to bits.

When I was looking on net last night there is a walker H28 in cairns with a fork lift motor for power he was offering a spare prop in the deal maybe Bubble might be able to score a second hand fixed blade cheap via this guy Il try and find the link later

Select to expand quote

cisco said..

Looks good. The Walker H28s have a great reputation. All boats need work.

Look at the meaning of the word BOAT.

Boat
Owners
Always
Toil

Well I had a look through the first H28 today a few problems this hull was Khan Walkers male plug so its slightly heaver build .Setana was sent around the exhibitions when Khan Walker first started build these yacht's for display it has a teak deck which it worn down so the brass screw that hold it down protrude( the teak strips are cupped) to you would have two options replay the teak deck or strip it off and replace it with non slip. number two well for me any way would be replace the engine mounting bearers this is steel and even is bolted to the stern of the hull.
Hey " Bubble777 " this is interesting the owner of this walker H28 has made some boards that have a soft dove tail and these can be fitted between the the two settees making a very nice queen size Bed and when taken out they at all stored under the anchor well he uses the side cushions off the aft births both sides to fill the void in the queen size bed . the safety rails come with the yacht but are not fitted rigging done in 2007 not sure of the sails Hull seams in reasonable nick Setana has had a reasonable paint job hull and deck .
Tanks would need to be redone though you could use whats there bladders
See what tomorrow brings and thanks for the inputs you guys.
Hey Bubble I am doing a little search around here for a second hand prop for you just in case you end up looking for one
may you all find a never ending trade wind going in the right direction Cheers HG02

Select to expand quote

HG02 said..

LooseChange said..

cisco said..

I think the bronze in that prop would be so polluted that brazing would not take to it.

Not so sure about that Cisco, bronze unlike brass doesn't go all carroty and porous. In brass the zinc leaches out in no time at all but the tin in bronze is classed as a noble metal which is why it is favoured as a marine metal.

The biggest problem I see is if you try to weld it, each blade MUST be in exactly the same position relative to the others to avoid an out of balance problem, which if it were to occur would see the boat shaking its arse to bits.

When I was looking on net last night there is a walker H28 in cairns with a fork lift motor for power he was offering a spare prop in the deal maybe Bubble might be able to score a second hand fixed blade cheap via this guy Il try and find the link later

This is my neibours boat.....it's a deceased estate. I would think you may get it for 35 to 40k....... We have had 3 deceased estate yachts up here in past few months perhaps something to do with the healthy lifestyles some choise in the tropics!


www.sonarmarine.com.au/sonar_marineyachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/herreschoff-pacific-36/142800

Select to expand quote

southace said..

HG02 said..

LooseChange said..

cisco said..

I think the bronze in that prop would be so polluted that brazing would not take to it.

Not so sure about that Cisco, bronze unlike brass doesn't go all carroty and porous. In brass the zinc leaches out in no time at all but the tin in bronze is classed as a noble metal which is why it is favoured as a marine metal.

The biggest problem I see is if you try to weld it, each blade MUST be in exactly the same position relative to the others to avoid an out of balance problem, which if it were to occur would see the boat shaking its arse to bits.

When I was looking on net last night there is a walker H28 in cairns with a fork lift motor for power he was offering a spare prop in the deal maybe Bubble might be able to score a second hand fixed blade cheap via this guy Il try and find the link later

This is my neibours boat.....it's a deceased estate. I would think you may get it for 35 to 40k....... We have had 3 deceased estate yachts up here in past few months perhaps something to do with the healthy lifestyles some choise in the tropics!


www.sonarmarine.com.au/sonar_marineyachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/herreschoff-pacific-36/142800

South ace who would be best to contact for this link
Dont worry South Ace this would be like being married to a blonde bimbo high maintenance
Re Rigging would not be much change out of $10.000 add a refurbished motor
I couldn't afford the upkeep( the Blonde again) and don't want to either bloody nice boat though H28 is for me

Select to expand quote

HG02 said..

cisco said..

Looks good. The Walker H28s have a great reputation. All boats need work.

Look at the meaning of the word BOAT.

Boat
Owners
Always
Toil

Well I had a look through the first H28 today a few problems this hull was Khan Walkers male plug so its slightly heaver build .Setana was sent around the exhibitions when Khan Walker first started build these yacht's for display it has a teak deck which it worn down so the brass screw that hold it down protrude( the teak strips are cupped) to you would have two options replay the teak deck or strip it off and replace it with non slip. number two well for me any way would be replace the engine mounting bearers this is steel and even is bolted to the stern of the hull.
Hey " Bubble777 " this is interesting the owner of this walker H28 has made some boards that have a soft dove tail and these can be fitted between the the two settees making a very nice queen size Bed and when taken out they at all stored under the anchor well he uses the side cushions off the aft births both sides to fill the void in the queen size bed . the safety rails come with the yacht but are not fitted rigging done in 2007 not sure of the sails Hull seams in reasonable nick Setana has had a reasonable paint job hull and deck .
Tanks would need to be redone though you could use whats there bladders
See what tomorrow brings and thanks for the inputs you guys.
Hey Bubble I am doing a little search around here for a second hand prop for you just in case you end up looking for one
may you all find a never ending trade wind going in the right direction Cheers HG02

yes the sette on mine also converts to a queen bed. It uses the back rests from the sette instead of the quarter berth mattresses and extra boards are hinged so they just pivot up and down. its a nice addition like you noticed on the h28 you looked at.

thanks for keeping an eye out for a prop I need a right hand 16inch prop with a 11.5 inch pitch . a 1inch chamfered shaft and a 5/16 key. chances of finding such second hand is about zero I reackon :(

I just install my cold galv prop..

well that was a disaster and im an idiot as I could not have used a worse paint that just rubbed off and chunked up and created quite a mess .

I used the cold gal paint it as I was using it on the blades as well so I figured I wouldn't have to mask the blades off. shortcuts often pay off.

so I rubbed it back and used a deep etch primer and then ill add a hard gloss metal enamel tomorrow.

the good news is that while the cold gal rubbed off it created the extra depth that I need to remove the slop from the prop and it at first stiffened the blades such that I couldn't even move it to feather it.


it was a minor setback but im still delusional and hopeful.

Select to expand quote

bubble7777 said..

I just install my cold galv prop..

well that was a disaster and im an idiot as I could not have used a worse paint that just rubbed off and chunked up and created quite a mess .

I used the cold gal paint it as I was using it on the blades as well so I figured I wouldn't have to mask the blades off. shortcuts often pay off.

so I rubbed it back and used a deep etch primer and then ill add a hard gloss metal enamel tomorrow.

the good news is that while the cold gal rubbed off it created the extra depth that I need to remove the slop from the prop and it at first stiffened the blades such that I couldn't even move it to feather it.


it was a minor setback but im still delusional and hopeful.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Heavy-SOLID-BRONZE-16-inch-Boat-PROPELLER-Excellent-Adelaide-/191089668711?clk_rvr_id=598267347988 its 16 inch
this was on the bottom of the page seems like some one asked the question before me
Questions and answers about this item
Q: Hi could you tell me the shaft size and the pitch it should stamped on the prop-? thank you
A: hi no stamps that i can see and i think it is a l/h and length of centre shaft is 75mm and the tapper is 38mm and 32mm thanks andrew
just found it not sure about anything else first search spent a couple of minuets Ill keep looking we will find a one
found it here theres more
au.sale-fire.com/Used%20Boat%20Propellers?p=gcb&gclid=CM3uoZyTgL0CFUMGvAod5IcA5A

www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=16638086&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=2&eapi=2
I asked the question on this the owner said 35 K
But I still be happy with a H28 Im more a coastal cruiser living on Abbott's pension >3 years to go

left hand p

Select to expand quote

HG02 said..

bubble7777 said..

I just install my cold galv prop..

well that was a disaster and im an idiot as I could not have used a worse paint that just rubbed off and chunked up and created quite a mess .

I used the cold gal paint it as I was using it on the blades as well so I figured I wouldn't have to mask the blades off. shortcuts often pay off.

so I rubbed it back and used a deep etch primer and then ill add a hard gloss metal enamel tomorrow.

the good news is that while the cold gal rubbed off it created the extra depth that I need to remove the slop from the prop and it at first stiffened the blades such that I couldn't even move it to feather it.


it was a minor setback but im still delusional and hopeful.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Heavy-SOLID-BRONZE-16-inch-Boat-PROPELLER-Excellent-Adelaide-/191089668711?clk_rvr_id=598267347988 its 16 inch
this was on the bottom of the page seems like some one asked the question before me
Questions and answers about this item
Q: Hi could you tell me the shaft size and the pitch it should stamped on the prop-? thank you
A: hi no stamps that i can see and i think it is a l/h and length of centre shaft is 75mm and the tapper is 38mm and 32mm thanks andrew
just found it not sure about anything else first search spent a couple of minuets Ill keep looking we will find a one
found it here theres more
au.sale-fire.com/Used%20Boat%20Propellers?p=gcb&gclid=CM3uoZyTgL0CFUMGvAod5IcA5A

www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=16638086&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=2&eapi=2
I asked the question on this the owner said 35 K
But I still be happy with a H28 Im more a coastal cruiser living on Abbott's pension >3 years to go

left hand prop.. I need R/H
?
and the boat you posted above is that a wooden plank over dynal sheaf or something as it looks like I can see the planks on the hull?

No Bubble they are fiber glass with the planking look. You still have to have a good look decking is glassed over board well not sure on that one but a lot of T.W. yacht were made that way
I looked over this boat http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=15852033&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=0&eapi=2
and negotiated a price which includes a free swing mooring for 12 months.
The owner is now to old to use her and since that time a friend has been caring for Erakor 11.
Motor runs and easy starts but will need to clean the water intake and give her s good gong over
Ill start inside and work my way out
New cushion covers scrub and paint the inside of the hull , oil and clean all the wood work
Flush the fuel tank and sort out the water tank
It has the original interior lamps which I will either refurbish with LEDS or change all the lighting on the boat to LEDs
The Wiring is in very good order well fused and well laid out
It has a 12 volt fridge unit not sure if it works
Head lining is a bit mildewy a carpet steam clean will being it back
This winter Ill drop both masts and probably two pack white them go through all the rigging
Bubble I see what you mean as far as trying to work behind the motor.
The Guy who showed me over the H28 his own H28 I had a look over her as well he has cut the side out behind the Bukh port side and made a brace so it can be removed to work on the rear of the engine bay. so he has cut a piece out and bolted a 3 by 1.5 piece of wood sp he can remove it any time give you a little more room to work in there next week I take a photo and send it to you

Bubble the owner of this walker H28 below just change his propeller his mobile number is in the link hes at Maggi Island he might sell his old prop be worth a call
www.h28.com.au/pages/dream-weaver < for sale
Also the Walker H28( fork lift motor converted) In Cairns has a spare prop he may be worth checking out, but its via a dealer that one its on the same web site as that H35 South Ace gave me Ill find the link and put it up
you are right hand props are hard to find

Bubble good news


I just rang the guy that showed me over the H28 I bought He has a two bladed H28 prop( came with the H28 standard on his) and he said he knows where there maybe more 2 and a 3 blade props. He will get back to me tomorrow as he has to look through a storage shed to find them I should have a answer for you some time tomorrow
His words it wont be expensive
So if you can email me an address where to send it some time Ill pack it at work and send it on

I told him Right Hand and 1tapper shaft 16 x 11.5 with 5/16 key all these props are off Walker H28,s all the measurements are the same I double checked
'
He replaced his with a folding two blade

Select to expand quote

HG02 said..

No Bubble they are fiber glass with the planking look. You still have to have a good look decking is glassed over board well not sure on that one but a lot of T.W. yacht were made that way
I looked over this boat http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=15852033&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=0&eapi=2
and negotiated a price which includes a free swing mooring for 12 months.
The owner is now to old to use her and since that time a friend has been caring for Erakor 11.
Motor runs and easy starts but will need to clean the water intake and give her s good gong over
Ill start inside and work my way out
New cushion covers scrub and paint the inside of the hull , oil and clean all the wood work
Flush the fuel tank and sort out the water tank
It has the original interior lamps which I will either refurbish with LEDS or change all the lighting on the boat to LEDs
The Wiring is in very good order well fused and well laid out
It has a 12 volt fridge unit not sure if it works
Head lining is a bit mildewy a carpet steam clean will being it back
This winter Ill drop both masts and probably two pack white them go through all the rigging
Bubble I see what you mean as far as trying to work behind the motor.
The Guy who showed me over the H28 his own H28 I had a look over her as well he has cut the side out behind the Bukh port side and made a brace so it can be removed to work on the rear of the engine bay. so he has cut a piece out and bolted a 3 by 1.5 piece of wood sp he can remove it any time give you a little more room to work in there next week I take a photo and send it to you

Bubble the owner of this walker H28 below just change his propeller his mobile number is in the link hes at Maggi Island he might sell his old prop be worth a call
www.h28.com.au/pages/dream-weaver < for sale
Also the Walker H28( fork lift motor converted) In Cairns has a spare prop he may be worth checking out, but its via a dealer that one its on the same web site as that H35 South Ace gave me Ill find the link and put it up
you are right hand props are hard to find

firstly thankyou hg02 for your help and efforts. its much appreciated :) and congratulations on the H28! do you mind if I ask how much you picked it up for?

also

are the lamps the brown swivel reading lamps with the switch located on the bottom? if they are keep them and I can get you some leds to replace the old bulbs. therer only $2 each from dx.com and after buying loads that didn't fit I now know the model number from dx.com that fits the h28 lighting mounts.


also clean out all the raw water cooling. just behind the flywheel theres a inlet which gets clogged. also take off the raw water manifold (think that's what its called) and clean it out and also ontop of that is the temperature water diverter and also the release valve. taken off and cleaned will increase your raw water flow. check to see if the relase valve is working my putting it in hot water and check that it opens.

I find the best way to work on the engine is to lay a pillow on top and lean over and put my weight on to decompression levers. its not comfortable but I can usually get 30 minutes without the need for medical attention afterwards.

my interior has already been painted. however if I was to be the one doing it and started again I would make sure I use a high build primer to make it smooth. it still annoys me seeing the rough glass all in the front cabin.



again congrats on the H28

oh and get this book "this old boat" as its a great reference manual..

www.amazon.com/This-Old-Boat-Second-Edition/dp/0071477942

Select to expand quote

bubble7777 said..

HG02 said..

No Bubble they are fiber glass with the planking look. You still have to have a good look decking is glassed over board well not sure on that one but a lot of T.W. yacht were made that way
I looked over this boat http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-for-sale/boatdetails.aspx?R=15852033&Silo=stock&Vertical=boat&Ridx=0&eapi=2
and negotiated a price which includes a free swing mooring for 12 months.
The owner is now to old to use her and since that time a friend has been caring for Erakor 11.
Motor runs and easy starts but will need to clean the water intake and give her s good gong over
Ill start inside and work my way out
New cushion covers scrub and paint the inside of the hull , oil and clean all the wood work
Flush the fuel tank and sort out the water tank
It has the original interior lamps which I will either refurbish with LEDS or change all the lighting on the boat to LEDs
The Wiring is in very good order well fused and well laid out
It has a 12 volt fridge unit not sure if it works
Head lining is a bit mildewy a carpet steam clean will being it back
This winter Ill drop both masts and probably two pack white them go through all the rigging
Bubble I see what you mean as far as trying to work behind the motor.
The Guy who showed me over the H28 his own H28 I had a look over her as well he has cut the side out behind the Bukh port side and made a brace so it can be removed to work on the rear of the engine bay. so he has cut a piece out and bolted a 3 by 1.5 piece of wood sp he can remove it any time give you a little more room to work in there next week I take a photo and send it to you

Bubble the owner of this walker H28 below just change his propeller his mobile number is in the link hes at Maggi Island he might sell his old prop be worth a call
www.h28.com.au/pages/dream-weaver < for sale
Also the Walker H28( fork lift motor converted) In Cairns has a spare prop he may be worth checking out, but its via a dealer that one its on the same web site as that H35 South Ace gave me Ill find the link and put it up
you are right hand props are hard to find

firstly thankyou hg02 for your help and efforts. its much appreciated :) and congratulations on the H28! do you mind if I ask how much you picked it up for?

also

are the lamps the brown swivel reading lamps with the switch located on the bottom? if they are keep them and I can get you some leds to replace the old bulbs. therer only $2 each from dx.com and after buying loads that didn't fit I now know the model number from dx.com that fits the h28 lighting mounts.


also clean out all the raw water cooling. just behind the flywheel theres a inlet which gets clogged. also take off the raw water manifold (think that's what its called) and clean it out and also ontop of that is the temperature water diverter and also the release valve. taken off and cleaned will increase your raw water flow. check to see if the relase valve is working my putting it in hot water and check that it opens.

I find the best way to work on the engine is to lay a pillow on top and lean over and put my weight on to decompression levers. its not comfortable but I can usually get 30 minutes without the need for medical attention afterwards.

my interior has already been painted. however if I was to be the one doing it and started again I would make sure I use a high build primer to make it smooth. it still annoys me seeing the rough glass all in the front cabin.



again congrats on the H28

oh and get this book "this old boat" as its a great reference manual..

www.amazon.com/This-Old-Boat-Second-Edition/dp/0071477942

Bubble what would you recommend once Ive cleaned the bilge to use as far as paint goes all the cabinets are dry I thought I might use some steel wool and give them a rub and then oil them the teak bulk head is OK. Ill oil it what is best oil to use inside and oil out side . The bump rail has had a protective paint or some thing most of it is worn off want to oil all the wood on deck so inside and out side oil for all the wood .
The previous owner was a scientist hes done a good job on the wiring but over the last few year he has got to old a friend has been caring for the H28. So Ill start cleaning from the bow and make my way back arft so Ill picture where every last thing is on the boat clean and paint as I go for starters while I'm doing that Ill use spotlight and buy some cushion cover material there's a Filipino lady not far from here that reasonable prices
the previous owner had the H28 for 25 years its still pretty much original.
The roof lining is a bit mildewy thought Id hire a carpet cleaner to steam clean it I think it should come up OK Ill pull the stove out bring it home and see what it needs also has a fridge unit which hasn't been used for 7 years so not sure what that will be like Ill fix it if its fixable
Ill be asking for some recommendations along the way over the next 12 months so Ill value any input
Later on Ill lift her out think Ill pull the motor out and go over its cute arse end Ha Ha want to run the motor for a while make sure it has no oil leaks start in one revolution so appear to have good compression . Ill pull the fuel tank out and clean it and puts some biocide in it kill any gremlins this should take me a few months of weekend I have a free swing mooring for 12 months maybe longer so Ill do as much as I can before lifting her out.
Its had regular lifts out and bottom paint just hasn't had the TLC of a younger owner .
I guess I could have bought a ready to sail H28 but this way ill know her inside and out and know what she needs I hope