Finally

An old piston..

Bravo champ. Sounded like a long arduous process glad it's finally over for you

Select to expand quote

welsh said..
Bravo champ. Sounded like a long arduous process glad it's finally over for you

Happy days my dear Fellows.

Select to expand quote

Serb1980 said..

welsh said..
Bravo champ. Sounded like a long arduous process glad it's finally over for you

Happy days my dear Fellows.

May the happy days continue long into the future.
May I also humbly suggest that you abstain from using anything in the crankcase other than GOOD quality oil designed for diesel engines, I use a shell product, rimula designed for heavy trucks, that maintains oil pressure really well.

Yes, and I will kindly accept your suggestions. No more lucas oil **** in it. Had a good chat with Philip Lulich ( Yanmar mechanic who reconditioned the engine) who told me the same. He recommended this oil.

Thank you for kind suggestions and care.


Keep in touch

Select to expand quote

Serb1980 said..
Yes, and I will kindly accept your suggestions. No more lucas oil **** in it. Had a good chat with Philip Lulich ( Yanmar mechanic who reconditioned the engine) who told me the same. He recommended this oil.

Thank you for kind suggestions and care.


Keep in touch

Good one.

I have a question, so looked at the recommended oil which is mono 30. I have choice, Valvoline around 10-12 bucks a litre or wolf western half price 6 bucks per litre. I have never used valvoline or gulf western oils, only used liqui Molly in my Saab. I know many people like Penrith oil but is more expensive than valvoline. Is there any fellow tiger here that has the beast YSE8 and which oil is he using?

If gulf western will do the job than why not get 20L for 120 bucks and share with the neighbour how also has Yanmar 3 cylinders engine.

Gulf western is made in Australia and I prefer to support the local community and businesses.

Thank you.

Hi Serb
There will be many opinions on oil.
ie. Don't save money on cheap oil, buy the best.
It is only an old industrial engine and will run perfectly well with any oil as long as it is changed regularly.

I use the cheapest oil, rotate the oil filter (the T handle in the front of the engine) every start up and change once a year.
That is an oil change every 60 hours or so. I pay $3:50 per litre. 1.9 litres =$7.
I pulled the front housing off to change a seal and checked and washed the inside of the oil filter with kerosene.
There was zero sludge after 7 years.

In the end it is up to you.

gary

Serb, the cheapest form of insuring that the engine will perform to its best is to buy the best oil, not the cheapest. The rebuilder offered his 2 bobs worth, the price difference is nothing in the scheme of things.

Understood,

but which one is the best? If you ask 100 people they all have different opinions. It is just too funny. Every body has different theories. I want to put the best oil in the beast, but is the best one the most expensive? This is soooo funny.

I will go with valvoline than.

Select to expand quote

Serb1980 said..
Understood,

but which one is the best? If you ask 100 people they all have different opinions. It is just too funny. Every body has different theories. I want to put the best oil in the beast, but is the best one the most expensive? This is soooo funny.

I will go with valvoline than.

Mate, I know what you are saying and agree with you, which is why I use recognised quality brands. If I remember correctly older Yanmah's use a 30 weight mono grade, so yeah, I would stick with that.

Cool, apparently 15w40 castrol magnetic oil can damage the bearings.

will stick with Valvoline mono 30!

Thanks

The Yanmar stuff is around $40 for 5 litres, get it from the dealer when you pick up your impellers and anodes.

I would suggest using the cheapest oil you can find as long as is the same rating as what was recommended for this engine at the time. Everything you can buy now exceeds that rating. 30 grade oil will have less additives than a multigrade. Most people kill their engines with kindness. Modern oils, even oil based are far too good for this generation of engine and the rings never get bedded in correctly. If you had new rings installed I would have thought the builder would have filled with running in oil! The Gulf oil mentioned far exceeds the engine requirements but the only other source for oil to suit will be at tractor supply shops.

Mono 30 MINERAL oil, not synthetic.

Buy a quality brand and change it 6 monthly.

I use the gulf western mono grade in the Detroit and the same brand but recommended multi in the Nissan industrial engine. The modern oil that complies with oil grades will be all good. Use an oil that is specified for the engine and change it at regular intervals. Yacht engines seldom reach the recommended hourly interval. Note the oil can sill look good but have lost its viscosity, owing to exposure to residual fuel contamination. I change the oil every 12month even if has done nil hours. But in a wee little motor it wouldn't cost much to do it more regularly Anyway Serb your mechanic has made a recommendation, so stick with it, he rebuilt the engine so he probably knows what he's talking about

Thanks tigers. The specifications for old Yanmar is CF oil, non detergent mineral oil. Change every 6 months and happy days. Why do synthetic oils not work well in marine diesels?
The problem with using high-spec synthetic oil in older diesel engine designs is that it can quickly cause bore polishing. Bore polishing leads to excessive oil consumption by the engine and reduced power output, and it's very difficult to rectify.

If you're in a foreign port and you urgently need engine oil then look for quality branded mineral oil. You need 15W40 grade, with a spec to API CF-4, which is the official replacement for API CD. Note that the can might say "API SL/CF" - don't worry; that's the one you want. The "SL" bit refers to the spec for petrol engines; the "CF" bit refers to the spec for diesel engines.

So in conclusion, just in case you've skimmed this page. A good semi-synthetic is certainly better than no oil at all and if I had no other choice then I'd put it in in my trusty old Yanmar. The next day, though, I'd be flushing it out and replacing it with mineral oil.

All clear now!

Professional who actually works on engines and makes them actually run. Probably for a long time - makes oil suggestion, no doubt based on a variety of actual experience....

Client immediately looks for cheaper option and asks around on internet forum..... (having just spent 1000's with professional)

I don't get it???

Select to expand quote

Magpieuser said..
Professional who actually works on engines and makes them actually run. Probably for a long time - makes oil suggestion, no doubt based on a variety of actual experience....

Client immediately looks for cheaper option and asks around on internet forum..... (having just spent 1000's with professional)

I don't get it???

To be fair, he has been bitten previously and possibly seeking confirmation from a broader audience.

Select to expand quote

Magpieuser said..
Professional who actually works on engines and makes them actually run. Probably for a long time - makes oil suggestion, no doubt based on a variety of actual experience....

Client immediately looks for cheaper option and asks around on internet forum..... (having just spent 1000's with professional)

I don't get it???

A professional would have put in a running in oil! Then told the client to change to a 30 grade oil after 50 hours or so.

Oils aint Oils Sam.

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..

Magpieuser said..
Professional who actually works on engines and makes them actually run. Probably for a long time - makes oil suggestion, no doubt based on a variety of actual experience....

Client immediately looks for cheaper option and asks around on internet forum..... (having just spent 1000's with professional)

I don't get it???

A professional would have put in a running in oil! Then told the client to change to a 30 grade oil after 50 hours or so.

I believe running in oil is a newish development owing to the advances in metallurgy and manufacturing leaving tolerances rather fine, hence a running in oil or perhaps a wearing in oil is needed. I don't think a yse8 a GM or the likes of a Gardner have any need for such treatment let's face it their tolerances are loose enough to require a thick mono grade oil. Perhaps a marine engineer that that worked on that category of machine will comment

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..

Magpieuser said..
Professional who actually works on engines and makes them actually run. Probably for a long time - makes oil suggestion, no doubt based on a variety of actual experience....

Client immediately looks for cheaper option and asks around on internet forum..... (having just spent 1000's with professional)

I don't get it???

A professional would have put in a running in oil! Then told the client to change to a 30 grade oil after 50 hours or so.

But isn't mono 30 a 'running in oil' anyway?

ie. basic oil, no friction modifiers etc.

Either way my guess is to satisfy the engine builders requirements for their warranty you actually use and do what they suggest.

buying a yacht with an old yse8...bit noisy but goes ok..is Nulon additive a safe option?

Select to expand quote

hipopp said..
buying a yacht with an old yse8...bit noisy but goes ok..is Nulon additive a safe option?

Don't waste your money. Stick with a 30 grade mono or use a 40 grade if you think it's going to make a difference.

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..

hipopp said..
buying a yacht with an old yse8...bit noisy but goes ok..is Nulon additive a safe option?

Don't waste your money. Stick with a 30 grade mono or use a 40 grade if you think it's going to make a difference.

^^^^
This, buy GOOD, branded oil, not some cheaper house blend.

Yep what they said

The problem is you ask 10 mechanic and they are all saying different oil. One Mechsnic sad : Valvoline, another sad: Valvoline? I hate that oil.? It is like a water. You need to use a good oil like Gulf Western and add 20% of Lucas oil stabilisatior to protect the engine even more. And so on and so on.
I love to talk about oil to every and each mechanic and everybody has different opinion. That is very interesting for me. I buy oils and test them in my lab. I freeze them burn then etc. so far Gulf Western mono 30 and 20% of Lucas oil Stabilsator is the only mixture that takes twice longer to reach 200 degrees under the flames.. but interestingly gulf western is the cheapest oil but outperforms oils like Valvoline, Penrite Shell, etc..

Use the cheapest oil suitable for your engine. No additives. The rings need to get bedded in. It will never wear out in our lifetimes. Corrosion will kill it eventually but we will be long gone!