Hi,

I posted before about my YSE8 that I since cleaned and worked on a bit (cleaned started motor and got new brushes, vented, cleaned corrosion etc.).

I now have diesel leaking (bubbling) out of the the two screws you can see below (different angles).

I read up on this in the YSE8 manual and it mentions something about tightening screws too much when venting etc. I am not sure if I did something here last time. The engine turns on just fine, but the diesel bubbles out (not that much but enough to fill a small shotglas after about 15min). Can I just tighten the screws? They already seem pretty tight. Just a bit confused when I read the manual.

My question, how tight can I make these screws and if I need replacement, does anyone know a good Online dealer that sells Yanmar YSE8 parts? I am in Southern Queensland but it has been slow sourcing parts for the YSE8.

Thanks in advance everyone :)

cheers,
Yamaha24ft

Can't answer the first part of the question but would expect this company can supply parts. 12 off 5/5 reviews.

www.sydneydieselmarine.com.au/index.html

Select to expand quote

r13 said..
Can't answer the first part of the question but would expect this company can supply parts. 12 off 5/5 reviews.

www.sydneydieselmarine.com.au/index.html

great. thank you for the link. :)

A couple of small fibre washers could be your friend.

Also Minards up Newcastle way. Great fast service & delivery.

What saltiest said

Hi Yammy 24.
What you have ia an old Yanmar fuel filter.
It has a fuel in, fuel out and bleed screw. The basic unit is cast aluminium and they are reasonable quality. The fittings for the fuel lines are " banjo" fittings and they have two anneled copper washers. In theory the washers should be replaced anytime the fitting is loosened (for bleeding or whatever). In a pinch you can reuse them once if you anneal them. Your problem with leaking is either not tight enough or buggered washers. First step with both the fuel fitting and the bleed screw is to fit new annealed washers. I always anneal new washers. Bunnies sells them
Next, you could be out of luck with stripped out threads in the Ali case. The only way to know is to visually check the inner surface and to see if the banjo bolts and bleed screw will seal. If not, replace with a Yanmar filter as it would be an easier fix just to replace.

Gary

Select to expand quote

garymalmgren said..
Hi Yammy 24.
What you have ia an old Yanmar fuel filter.
It has a fuel in, fuel out and bleed screw. The basic unit is cast aluminium and they are reasonable quality. The fittings for the fuel lines are " banjo" fittings and they have two anneled copper washers. In theory the washers should be replaced anytime the fitting is loosened (for bleeding or whatever). In a pinch you can reuse them once if you anneal them. Your problem with leaking is either not tight enough or buggered washers. First step with both the fuel fitting and the bleed screw is to fit new annealed washers. I always anneal new washers. Bunnies sells them
Next, you could be out of luck with stripped out threads in the Ali case. The only way to know is to visually check the inner surface and to see if the banjo bolts and bleed screw will seal. If not, replace with a Yanmar filter as it would be an easier fix just to replace.

Gary

Awesome. Thanks Gary. That makes a lot of sense. I will give it a go and report back here.

As Always, thank you everyone for your feedback, links and advice. Really much appreciated. What a great forum :)

cheers,
Yamaha24ft

It looks like you have a Banjo bolt in cast iron female socket.

The bad news is that these can develop leaks. The good news is that they can be inexpensive to fix with common parts and some know-how. I suggest you try the less-expensive, less intrusive things before getting too enthusiastic about disassembling your engine.

If the casing is cast iron, you can tighten the bolts tightly. If the casing is alloy, you will strip the thread by using a ring-spanner. Use a magnet to test if the casing is iron.

The next place to go is to check that your washers are the right size and are made of copper or fibre (or alloy). The washers need to be soft enough to get squashed, and so seal the connection. Your washer looks a little too large. If it is steel, replace it.

The next place to go is to your ring-clamp. If yours is spring-loaded, replace it with a stainless steel clamp with a screw to tighten it. Even better, use two.

The spigot itself might be OK, so it might be best to keep it. Replacements can be bought at some auto stores.

Your hose looks OK. If there is any doubt, replace it with new hose, which can also be bought at some auto stores.

That top looks like cast alloy. If the threads are gone take it home and get helicoils done.

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..
That top looks like cast alloy. If the threads are gone take it home and get helicoils done.

Yup. I did that on the alloy casing of the water pump on my (previous) diesel, after stripping the thread by over-tightening the banjo nut.

Any man can learn from his own mistakes. A wise man will learn from the mistakes of others.