Ok - Im about to embark on changing out the existing Steca solar controller for a Victron 100/50

For perspective I have a 140w solar panel mounted on the Davit, will look to add to it or just replace with higher voltage but for now it will do.

The Steca currently has 3 inputs (both positive & negative) - Solar, Battery & load (a light symbol, which I believe shows energy out) whereas the Victron only has Solar & Battery.
My question is to those that know & will happily pass on to me the unenlightened is what do I do with those positive & negative wires for the light? I'm really hoping with the new Victron (which has inbuilt bluetooth) can be more easily navigable then the current one.

All feedback appreciated, Thanks

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gazer10 said..
Ok - Im about to embark on changing out the existing Steca solar controller for a Victron 100/50

For perspective I have a 140w solar panel mounted on the Davit, will look to add to it or just replace with higher voltage but for now it will do.

The Steca currently has 3 inputs (both positive & negative) - Solar, Battery & load (a light symbol, which I believe shows energy out) whereas the Victron only has Solar & Battery.
My question is to those that know & will happily pass on to me the unenlightened is what do I do with those positive & negative wires for the light? I'm really hoping with the new Victron (which has inbuilt bluetooth) can be more easily navigable then the current one.

All feedback appreciated, Thanks

I have one of these & works great.

I don't have the need to connect anything to the load output - everything runs off the battery bank.

You could, however, have a light, or maybe a fridge or something, connected to the load terminals that will cut out if the batteries drop below a certain voltage, so you don't flatten your battery bank.

They are very easy to navigate & set up with the Victron App via bluetooth.

I have mine connected to my Raspberry Pi5 via bluetooth so I can see what's happening with the charging from home via VNC.



Nothing happening in this pic because it's dark!! Notice the load current is "null" because nothing is connected.

Don't know the Steca but the load is there to save the battery from being too discharged, it is an old lead acid thing. In small systems it is often not used, flog the battery hang the expense. In short the wires from the load are the supply so just poke em in with the battery inputs & add a low voltage cut out if you want

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Lazzz said..

gazer10 said..
Ok - Im about to embark on changing out the existing Steca solar controller for a Victron 100/50

For perspective I have a 140w solar panel mounted on the Davit, will look to add to it or just replace with higher voltage but for now it will do.

The Steca currently has 3 inputs (both positive & negative) - Solar, Battery & load (a light symbol, which I believe shows energy out) whereas the Victron only has Solar & Battery.
My question is to those that know & will happily pass on to me the unenlightened is what do I do with those positive & negative wires for the light? I'm really hoping with the new Victron (which has inbuilt bluetooth) can be more easily navigable then the current one.

All feedback appreciated, Thanks

I have one of these & works great.

I don't have the need to connect anything to the load output - everything runs off the battery bank.

You could, however, have a light, or maybe a fridge or something, connected to the load terminals that will cut out if the batteries drop below a certain voltage, so you don't flatten your battery bank.

They are very easy to navigate & set up with the Victron App via bluetooth.

I have mine connected to my Raspberry Pi5 via bluetooth so I can see what's happening with the charging from home via VNC.



Nothing happening in this pic because it's dark!! Notice the load current is "null" because nothing is connected.

I believe the load points show amp hours out through use. Im thinking of tracing where it goes just capping them off for now if its ok to do so.

In addition to acting as a BMS (or secondary BMS in the case of a lithium battery) to cut the battery off at low voltage the additional value of the "load" output terminals is too facilitate a power usage reading. If you bypass the load output terminals and instead wire things straight to the battery you don't know how much power you have used.

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julesmoto said..
In addition to acting as a BMS (or secondary BMS in the case of a lithium battery) to cut the battery off at low voltage the additional value of the "load" output terminals is too facilitate a power usage reading. If you bypass the load output terminals and instead wire things straight to the battery you don't know how much power you have used.

I know exactly what my batteries are doing, not being connected to the load terminals!! (540Ah Lifepo4)

This is for my House bank



This is for my forward solar panels - (2 @ 300W Cheapo Flexible - 1800W Total)


I just rebooted my Pi5 this afternoon but usually there's a few days of data.

There's more info available such as I can see the yield for the day etc.

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Lazzz said..

julesmoto said..
In addition to acting as a BMS (or secondary BMS in the case of a lithium battery) to cut the battery off at low voltage the additional value of the "load" output terminals is too facilitate a power usage reading. If you bypass the load output terminals and instead wire things straight to the battery you don't know how much power you have used.

I know exactly what my batteries are doing, not being connected to the load terminals!! (540Ah Lifepo4)

This is for my House bank



This is for my forward solar panels - (2 @ 300W Cheapo Flexible - 1800W Total)


I just rebooted my Pi5 this afternoon but usually there's a few days of data.

There's more info available such as I can see the yield for the day etc.

So you dont see power out either? Just rely on whats been drawn from the battery available? can a level be set to not deep discharge?

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gazer10 said..
So you dont see power out either? Just rely on whats been drawn from the battery available? can a level be set to not deep discharge?

I can tell from the amps what I am using.

Yes, you can set whatever limits you want.

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Lazzz said..

gazer10 said..
So you dont see power out either? Just rely on whats been drawn from the battery available? can a level be set to not deep discharge?

I can tell from the amps what I am using.

Yes, you can set whatever limits you want.

Thats good to know. limits the deep discharge when the fridge is running or other high draining appliances

Gazer, I would go to the Victron website & download the manual for the controller & check that it does what you want it to do.

Maybe you do need a controller which has a load output for your fridge if you are worried that you can run your batteries that far down.

If your using a portable fridge they usually have low voltage cutoff,

Its the built in fridge with e boat. If need be i can buy a Victron shunt to do the same?

Check out the victron battery protector, it might fit the bill

Battery Protector might be useful too. its on the list now

Ok, Flying home from work tonight & getting the to do list sorted for a busy RnR. 2 new house batteries delivered & charged at home, check.
Been told by a mooring Neighbour that when setting solar controllers up that you have to have everything including solar disconnected for it to initially work/ read properly, was hoping to connect these two 120ah AGM batteries in tandem, then simply connect the solar & batteries to the Victron and hey ho away it goes.
Havent read the manual yet, its waiting for me at home but wondered is this general advice re solar controllers?

Always connect the batteries to the controller first then the solar.
Disconnect the solar first then disconnect the batteries,

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Lazzz said..
Always connect the batteries to the controller first then the solar.
Disconnect the solar first then disconnect the batteries,

Thanks Lazzz I think it's working pretty good. Did as you said. Batteries first then solar. Linked the app and am getting good results.