Restoring interior woodwork

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FreeRadical
FreeRadical
WA
855 posts
WA, 855 posts
29 Jan 2013 8:15pm
Hi All,

Id appreciate any tips on restoring the interior woodwork.

Floor is veneer on ply and I am concerned about sanding too much off. A youtube video showed scraping old lacquer off with a heat gun, but I wonder about the heat delaminating the veneer using that method?

Would also like advice on what finish to reapply.




For the cabinets, would a light fine grit sand be best? Also recommendations on what to use for the finish.




Thanks.
hangtime
hangtime
NSW
397 posts
NSW, 397 posts
29 Jan 2013 11:23pm
Lots of good info here............
diy-yachts.com/forum/
southace
southace
SA
4795 posts
SA, 4795 posts
29 Jan 2013 11:16pm
Try a small sample of paint stripper I use the cheapest I can find I think mitre 10 home brand and apply it very thick. And remove with a sharp tool drawing towards you....there is a special tool that takes blades can't remember the name.....but saves alot of less dust and strips the timber back to original.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
30 Jan 2013 1:23am
Scrape, sand or whatever you need to do to get rid of old varnish.

Multi coat with Wattyl Timber Preserver. Two minimum, three if it will take it with not much time between coats.

Sand smooth. Overcoat with Wattyl Instant Estapol Satin (oil based) thinned with a little turps and with 5 or 10% boiled linseed oil added.

This brew will take a little longer to cure between coats but the result is fantastic. Not quite the ultra high gloss but a very warm glow.

The resultant finish is very resistant to scuffing due to the linseed oil and being a single pack coating is very repairable with localized damage. You don't have to redo the whole lot if the varnish is damaged in one area.

Edit:- Try not to mix paints from different manufacturers.
SumFingWong
SumFingWong
11 posts
11 posts
30 Jan 2013 8:31am
Would this advice be relevant for restoring the plywood interior/cabinetry of a 30yo aussie production boat ?

For a more basic solution, is it possible to stain over the top with a slightly darker colour or do the previous coatings HAVE to be removed ?

I have absolutely no experience paint/timber/stains and am terrified of having my interior timbers all different colours/shades !

Cheers,
Craig.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
30 Jan 2013 11:33am
^^^Without actually seeing the ply I would advise doing the above.

Why put nice new paint over old crappy paint?

Varnish work often darkens over time. I don't see what could be terrifying about different shades of timber colour. It is often desired to have contrasts.
southace
southace
SA
4795 posts
SA, 4795 posts
30 Jan 2013 12:54pm
If you remove all the varnish as I explained with the paint stripper.... U then have 2 choices..

1) is you can apply a new application of 1 pack or 2 pack varnish which will last many years with out re coating.

2) you could just stain the timber/veneer but obvosily you will need to recoat as the stain may wear away over time.....I use feast Watson outdoor BBQ stain (jarrah) it's a wipe on wipe aplacation and I recoat every 12 months.

Just be very careful when sanding veneer as if you sand through the veneer back to the timber grain it will look odd,this is why I find the paint stripper far better than abrasive sanding methods as well as very little dust!

Looking at the very top pic you post I would take that section home and do some experiments on it... Mitre 10/bunnings have some timber cleaners or even perhaps acetone or soapy water may remove the stains with elbow grease. And then perhaps try some varnish on it first as see if you are happy with the result before attempting to stain it as if you start the staining you will have to keep going to complete the job.
FreeRadical
FreeRadical
WA
855 posts
WA, 855 posts
31 Jan 2013 2:33pm
Thanks for the tips.

The paint stripper and a light 400 grit sand worked beautifully to remove the old varnish but the water staining was too severe and had penetrated right through the veneer (as far as I dare sand). Will have to junk that piece but using it to test finishes first.

I wanted to keep it as natural as possible without staining so have tried just a clear oil based polyurethane floor finish (Cabots CFP floor). Looking quite good after just first coat.

The rest of the floor panels aren't water damaged so should restore nicely.

Does anybody know where to source the teak veneer ply?

An alternative is this kind of vinyl flooring.

http://www.vinylteakboatfloors.com.au/

Has anybody used this.

slainte
slainte
QLD
2246 posts
QLD, 2246 posts
31 Jan 2013 5:06pm
southace said...
Try a small sample of paint stripper I use the cheapest I can find I think mitre 10 home brand and apply it very thick. And remove with a sharp tool drawing towards you....there is a special tool that takes blades can't remember the name.....but saves alot of less dust and strips the timber back to original.


Scarson Scraper


Would be what you are thinking of Ace
SandS
SandS
VIC
5904 posts
VIC, 5904 posts
31 Jan 2013 7:09pm
FreeRadical said...
Thanks for the tips.

The paint stripper and a light 400 grit sand worked beautifully to remove the old varnish but the water staining was too severe and had penetrated right through the veneer (as far as I dare sand). Will have to junk that piece but using it to test finishes first.

I wanted to keep it as natural as possible without staining so have tried just a clear oil based polyurethane floor finish (Cabots CFP floor). Looking quite good after just first coat.

The rest of the floor panels aren't water damaged so should restore nicely.

Does anybody know where to source the teak veneer ply?

An alternative is this kind of vinyl flooring.

http://www.vinylteakboatfloors.com.au/

Has anybody used this.




To get the black water stains out of timber .... Oxalic acid ....look it up in painting /woodworking forums to get the ratio to apply it .

The painters used to use this method on renovation sites . It works .

So if your floor is in sound condition , you may not have to replace it .
FreeRadical
FreeRadical
WA
855 posts
WA, 855 posts
31 Jan 2013 5:41pm
Hi sands,

Under that panel is the transducer and I think over the years the damp has worked it way up from the bottom. The top coat of finish was actually still pretty good. After sanding the ply on the bottom, it is right through the whole board, but the board itself is probably too small to show much flex from the damp. The more I sanded, the worse it got. Pretty much stuffed it now.

The galley area has a little bit of water ingress which would much more likely be from wear and top down water damage. I'll try the oxalic acid on that. Thanks for the tip!

Cheers.

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