I use single line reefing outside the boom. There is always debate about the failings of single lines but I have addressed the usual issues by using 6mm Dymema and mini ball bearings at both luff and leech reefing cringles and a ball bearing turning block at the mast foot. Really easy to use and works like a dream.
Yacht is masthead 1/4 Tonner and mostly used for twighlights single handed

Select to expand quote

Jolene said..
Hi Gary,
l should have been a little more specific. Yes l did offset it slightly for the reason you described, 10-20 mm if recall correctly. My main halyard exit is high enough and the turning block on the mast step is far enough stepped out that the tight halyard will be free of the cleat. On the odd occasion whilst lowering the main, the halyard has found its way into the cleat and halted the operation but that is usually caused from interference by the person at the mast.
edit: the cleat is probable 3 feet above the turning block, I'm looking for a picture to post.

Select to expand quote

sirgallivant said..
It is interesting, that you mention this.

I had an offset clam cleat on the mast and a line running back to the cockpit controlling the spinnaker pole.
When working on the fore-deck l used the offset-fitted cam cleat to control the height of the pole - after letting the cockpit jammer out - and returning to the cockpit just tugged on the line and so dis-engaging the clam cleat secured it with the cockpit jammer.
It worked a treat.

Hi gents,
I was doodling whilst reading, is this kinda what you mean?
(That's supposed to be a jam cleat on the mast offset just forrard of the mast exit. )
Edit: curses, I just realised I drew the jam cleat the wrong way round..doh!

yeah,, that is basically it.

Well, Shaggy, got the basic idea but! I used a V or JAM CLEAT:


like this, not a CAM CLEAT.

The cam cleat might not undo when the line is tightened from the cockpit making it necessary for one to jump up to the mast to undo it to lower or drop the pole while the V or JAM CLEAT never ever let me down.
Just jerk the line hard enough from the cockpit - the line pulled down and tightened and so the V cleat disengaged, pulled out of the V - one has control of the line from the cockpit secured by a CAM CLEAT.
When the V or JAM CLEAT to be used again at the mast, one must undo the CAM CLEAT at the cockpit. This should not be a problem as the line has no load on it. When at the mast, one engages the JAM CLEAT and secures the lose uphaul line.

It is pretty fool proof and cheap and easy to install.

Thanks everyone
Jolene, Sirgaly. Sunset and Shaggy.
From your assistance I have decided!!
Will use a jam cleat as Sirgally suggested.
Your graphics is as how I imagined the set up, Shaggy.
Now where is that bloody 6mm tap.

gary

A rough picture

Select to expand quote

sirgallivant said..
Well, Shaggy, got the basic idea but! I used a V or JAM CLEAT:


like this, not a CAM CLEAT.

The cam cleat might not undo when the line is tightened from the cockpit making it necessary for one to jump up to the mast to undo it to lower or drop the pole while the V or JAM CLEAT never ever let me down.
Just jerk the line hard enough from the cockpit - the line pulled down and tightened and so the V cleat disengaged, pulled out of the V - one has control of the line from the cockpit secured by a CAM CLEAT.
When the V or JAM CLEAT to be used again at the mast, one must undo the CAM CLEAT at the cockpit. This should not be a problem as the line has no load on it. When at the mast, one engages the JAM CLEAT and secures the lose uphaul line.

It is pretty fool proof and cheap and easy to install.

Double doh! Thanks Sir G, my bad!

Select to expand quote

sirgallivant said..
Well, Shaggy, got the basic idea but! I used a V or JAM CLEAT:


like this, not a CAM CLEAT.

The cam cleat might not undo when the line is tightened from the cockpit making it necessary for one to jump up to the mast to undo it to lower or drop the pole while the V or JAM CLEAT never ever let me down.
Just jerk the line hard enough from the cockpit - the line pulled down and tightened and so the V cleat disengaged, pulled out of the V - one has control of the line from the cockpit secured by a CAM CLEAT.
When the V or JAM CLEAT to be used again at the mast, one must undo the CAM CLEAT at the cockpit. This should not be a problem as the line has no load on it. When at the mast, one engages the JAM CLEAT and secures the lose uphaul line.

It is pretty fool proof and cheap and easy to install.

I call them clam cleats and to be a little more specific, an "open clam cleat",,,,as I've always known a jam cleat to be something totally different, I guess the terminology changes the further you get down the road but we are talking about the same thing.

This is single line reefing layout on the boat I race on (we have first reef port, second starboard)
Line runs up from foot of mast to a fixed turn wheel on the mask just above boom (as show by that chunky plate in diagram)
Then up the main to reefing point, through a pully then back down around another fixed pully mounted in the front end of the boom, runs internally to a rear of the boom and out around another fixed pully, up to cringle and down to the boom under the cringle, tail tied off to boom.

We can pull a reef in and shake out all from the safety of the cockpit, yes it is a bit of winching but it is simple and works.

So boom has 3 lines internally, 2 reefing and an out hall.

The downside [main one], with single line reefing is that you cannot adjust luff tension to the optimum setting without affecting the foot tension.

Agree with you.
But adjusting the vang may help, plus if a reef is needed it's usually about de powering, so the finite trim may not be needed.

I also noticed today that there is a leech line cleat above both crinkles on the main so it can be tightened when reefed and it would just pop out of the cleat when shaking reef out.
My guess is not many would have that option.

Yeah, Jolene, our altumal cant still giving us nightmares. So while we are talking about the same things, we love using recondite, Delphic, cabalistic, abstruse language just to not to understand each other.??

Ramona, if the reefing line is pulled down on an adjustable car which could be pulled back as an out-haul and the tack cringle can be pulled down like a Cunningham, all the adjustments are there to adjust leech, luff, and foot tension.
There are also the halyards, back-stay and wang tension adjustments to extend the possibilities.

Select to expand quote

sirgallivant said..
Yeah, Jolene, our altumal cant still giving us nightmares. So while we are talking about the same things, we love using recondite, Delphic, cabalistic, abstruse language just to not to understand each other.??

Ramona, if the reefing line is pulled down on an adjustable car which could be pulled back as an out-haul and the tack cringle can be pulled down like a Cunningham, all the adjustments are there to adjust leech, luff, and foot tension.
There are also the halyards, back-stay and wang tension adjustments to extend the possibilities.

In fresh conditions you will never get enough luff tension with the halyard alone and if you do the top section of the sail may be over flattened. The whole idea of a cunningham eye is to get the drive back in the right place. With a headsail driven yacht where the mainsail is reefed to get some balance where the drive is is not so important. Mainsail driven yachts it's obviously better to have an optimum sail shape, even with one or two reefs when racing. With Craig66's single line set up with cringles above the reef points means that unless there is a permanent tackle set up some one has to leave the cockpit to hook up the new cunningham eye. Then there is no advantage of a single line reefing setup compared to a two line set up. The backstay adjustment is for other stuff and we don't want to hear about your wang tension!

I rest my case, Your Honor!

Select to expand quote

SunsetSailer said..
I use single line reefing outside the boom. There is always debate about the failings of single lines but I have addressed the usual issues by using 6mm Dymema and mini ball bearings at both luff and leech reefing cringles and a ball bearing turning block at the mast foot. Really easy to use and works like a dream.
Yacht is masthead 1/4 Tonner and mostly used for twighlights single handed

It would be great to see a photo of this if you get a chance

Will do

Hi BB

Its taken a while to get the pics organised but here they. Should be self explanatory with reference to the file names.

I have included a couple of pics of devices that greatly facilitate reefing for the single hander. One is the BOOMKICKER which is a solid vang so there is o need to worry about the topping lift. The other is the sail track and slide system from Tides Marine which allows the sail to go up and down very easily. No problem to reef on a reach