Hi everyone,
I just had a very quick question I was hoping someone may be able to help with, a mate and I have recently purchased a Peterson SP30 (built around the mid 80s) and was wondering what the main difference is between this and a Peterson 30. I have been able to find out a lot of information online about Peterson 30's but I'm struggling to find much information specifically around SP 30's.
Cheers

Assume you have just bought this? Well done, this is an awesome yacht. If it is not this one then it would be a sistership? There are a few in Sydney.

www.adelaideboatsales.com.au/boat/262417/peterson-30-sp30/

The SP30 was a completely different design to the Peterson 30s the latter of which were based on a 1/2 tonner IOR design circa mid 70s. The SP30 was not designed to the IOR rule (the advert indicates racing in the Geelong 1/2 tonner fleet but it never was designed to the IOR rule and wouldn't have rated 1/2 ton) rather was a "free form" fast racing yacht designed in the late 70s or early 80s with plenty of space and speed (SP stood for space and pace) and in Aust were built in Rozelle and marketed by Rob Mundle.............the first of them terrorized the JOG fleet off Sydney in the early 80s with upwind speed to burn especially in a breeze and building sea state and also good reaching and broad running downwind speed...........

Yes links on line are hard to find I am not sure how many were built here or in Japan. Expect any of them built here or in Japan would be very solid - obviously subject to normal maintenance and service and repairs as may be needed from unexpected load cases during use.

r13 got it right, of course. The "Peterson 30s" (which I think came from two different builders and were 1975-vintage "pintail" narrow stern half tonners) and the Santana 30s (a 1978-era "Phase IV" Peterson half tonner with a wider stern and often a fractional rig) have nothing in common with the SP30. The SP30 was definitely quicker, with much straighter lines and no IOR constraints. I think the early one were built by Yachtcraft, which was owned by Syd Fisher and was probably convenient for his tax (for Syd, that's a compliment) because Syd's boatbuilding companies popped out various boats but never really seemed to be serious about selling a lot of them from what I could see.

Thanks for your reply r13, the web link in your post was the one we purchased, we are in the process of fixing it up to do some club racing later this year. So far we have only really sailed it a few times in very lighter winds as the rigging needs to be updated, we are hoping to have this done within the next month or two so we can get it out in some heavier weather and start racing. We have been surprised how well the boat has started to clean up, the hull appears to be pretty solid.

Again I really appreciate the post, it's great to be able to discover a bit more about the boat, I can't wait to get it out racing, especially now hearing that it was considered a pretty competitive boat in its day.

Cheers

Thanks Chris, it was great to find out a bit more about the design. Cheers

Looks like a great yacht, well done Max.
You say the boat is cleaning up nicely, have you attacked what looks like black mold on the inside painted surfaces yet? I'm wondering if you have what you have used?, the inside painted surfaces on my boat look very similar, and I haven't had much fun using bleach in confined spaces.
cheers

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BlueMoon said..
Looks like a great yacht, well done Max.
You say the boat is cleaning up nicely, have you attacked what looks like black mold on the inside painted surfaces yet? I'm wondering if you have what you have used?, the inside painted surfaces on my boat look very similar, and I haven't had much fun using bleach in confined spaces.
cheers

Try vinegar and bicarbonate of soda,

We went pretty hard with the old exit mould and high pressure washer (I smelt like bleach for a day or two). Because the bunks etc could come out it made higher pressure washing pretty easy. In the end I think it was probably more the high pressure wash that helped the most as we worked out the few small sections that grew back again we had sprayed with exit mould but missed with the pressure washer. Will give vinegar and bicarbonate a go if it comes back again.

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r13 said..
Assume you have just bought this? Well done, this is an awesome yacht. If it is not this one then it would be a sistership? There are a few in Sydney.

www.adelaideboatsales.com.au/boat/262417/peterson-30-sp30/

The SP30 was a completely different design to the Peterson 30s the latter of which were based on a 1/2 tonner IOR design circa mid 70s. The SP30 was not designed to the IOR rule (the advert indicates racing in the Geelong 1/2 tonner fleet but it never was designed to the IOR rule and wouldn't have rated 1/2 ton) rather was a "free form" fast racing yacht designed in the late 70s or early 80s with plenty of space and speed (SP stood for space and pace) and in Aust were built in Rozelle and marketed by Rob Mundle.............the first of them terrorized the JOG fleet off Sydney in the early 80s with upwind speed to burn especially in a breeze and building sea state and also good reaching and broad running downwind speed...........

Yes links on line are hard to find I am not sure how many were built here or in Japan. Expect any of them built here or in Japan would be very solid - obviously subject to normal maintenance and service and repairs as may be needed from unexpected load cases during use.

Syd later added a scoop and the deck from one of the Traditional yachts when they went out of production and that was the Cord 32. There was also a Cord 34 built under the name of Coordinated Marine in the Rozelle factory.

An amazing steering wheel and cockpit seat cut-outs to accommodate it..........not sure why the extra outer diameter wheel was added for a 30fter. Tiller steering my preference for that size yacht but that is neither here nor there.
Even with a new diesel and attention to the mast and new standing rigging the yacht won't be over capitalized. If you are going to work on the mast can I suggest you consider converting it to swept back spreaders hence no runners - am sure you have well considered this. We did it on a Ross930 here in Sydney which had an original spindly Baverstock mast with masthead and hounds runners as well as lower diagonals to the gooseneck as well as the normal lower diagonals to each of the 2 spreaders - the lower panels of the mast had external and internal doublers...........would have been right on the design limit............which was a superb rig but not user friendly...........we got an as new All YachtSpars mast (5 years old, used for only 3 months early 2015) mast late 2019 and re-did the 2 spreader and masthead jumper rig to suit, 27deg swept back spreaders. Your existing mast could take this mod but it needs to be assessed as regards lateral and fore and aft inertias. The photos seem to indicate a keel stepped mast which is ideal. If you want details of what we did also hugely assisted by Infinity Rigging here (and AYS) please send me a PM but I don't want to unnessessarily interfere with your plans. Under side deck integrating into the keel lateral floor frames 25mm ply semi bulkhead gussets need to be epoxied into the hull structure to take the new swept back rig chain plates for the main shrouds and lower diagonals. The new spreader lengths need to be carefully sorted - some 2 spreader rig yachts have lower spreaders which are too short and cause lower mast inverting problems.

Hi r 13 thanks for the post, we have been considering converting it to swept back spreaders, as in the long run we know it will probably make things a lot easier. Just at the moment though due to cost and time it might end up being that when we replace the wire, turnbuckles etc we end up keeping the setup how it is for now, but then revisit it in a few years time (in saying that I know doing it later will cost us more in the long run). We are looking to hopefully pull the mast out later this month and will send you an email to get a few tips if we decide to do the swept spreaders now rather then later. Thanks for the post as it definitely gave a good insight as to what we need to consider if we do change the set up. Cheers

Thanks Max you have obviously planned your refurb tasks well. regards Rob