Hello Tigers,
As advised new reconditioned yse8 engine in coming into Tasman 26. The old one is gone. Takes atlest 5 trails ( 8sec each) to start. Once on it revs low even throttle is full open. Then after 5 min eventually engine is reaching full revs. Max speed this morning was 4knots... engine has lost compression, smoke is blowing out through crankshaft breather like crazy.. Unfortunately that is it! The time has come.

I can't sail without engine especially out of heads. It could be dangerous. I have found a mechanic who has a yse8 in his workshop and will completely restore it and fit it into my Tasman. He will buy my old engine and second one also yse8 I have in my garage for parts. That way I will reduce the cost of installing reconditioned engine.
Now with a new prop and a completely reconditioned engine I am feeling more confident to get out ofshore and enjoying my sailing.

The company who is doing the job was reconditioned by friend of mine and also woolwich marine staff. I will keep updating once job is done.
I am expecting that a new engine will start immediately when needed and 6 to 7 knots of hull speed will be achieved easily.

Here is a photo of the company I am dealing with just in case you need any help with your diesel engine here in Sydney.

Thank you for all your advice to not going sailing far without fixing the engine problem.

Keep in touch..

Hi Serb.... Make sure they install an anti siphon back flow device above the exhaust hose and fit a gate valve at the stern end, to prevent water gushing up in a following sea or rough water..
I have a YSB 8 and water entered the piston recently, as these 2 devices were not fitted on the last 2 rebuilds....!!!!
Where did you get your new prop and what was the cost?
Cheers, Mike.

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BeamReach said..
Hi Serb.... Make sure they install an anti siphon back flow device above the exhaust hose and fit a gate valve at the stern end, to prevent water gushing up in a following sea or rough water..
I have a YSB 8 and water entered the piston recently, as these 2 devices were not fitted on the last 2 rebuilds....!!!!
Where did you get your new prop and what was the cost?
Cheers, Mike.

Gate valves are usually brass, not what you want with salt water. Bronze is what you want, don't think it is available in gate valves but is in ball valves.
As for the anti siphon, it should already be there and is not part of the engine per se and would not normally be supplied by an engine rebuilder, but it never hurts to ask.

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UncleBob said..

BeamReach said..
Hi Serb.... Make sure they install an anti siphon back flow device above the exhaust hose and fit a gate valve at the stern end, to prevent water gushing up in a following sea or rough water..
I have a YSB 8 and water entered the piston recently, as these 2 devices were not fitted on the last 2 rebuilds....!!!!
Where did you get your new prop and what was the cost?
Cheers, Mike.

Gate valves are usually brass, not what you want with salt water. Bronze is what you want, don't think it is available in gate valves but is in ball valves.
As for the anti siphon, it should already be there and is not part of the engine per se and would not normally be supplied by an engine rebuilder, but it never hurts to ask.

Uncle Bob....
I didn't mention Brass????
If you actually look in Whitworths Catalogue, they stock brass...
If your a well known and Compentant Marine Mechanic Business, you would automatically install an anti siphon valve...
And Not recondition the same engine Twice, without installing the above mentioned devices.
If you have anything to add...Can you you make it Constructive and Valuable, rather than Pick...

Hi Serb, bear in mind that the boat would have been fitted with the 8hp for getting on and off a mooring or dock and cruising along at maybe 5 knots for longer periods. No engine is designed to run wot for long periods of time. I would only try to push that boat over 6 knots in an absolute emergency situation.
If you really want more than hull speed on a regular basis maybe think about a bigger engine as a rEplacement.

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BeamReach said..
If you have anything to add...Can you you make it Constructive and Valuable, rather than Pick...

I thought Uncle Bob's post was very constructive - you do not want a brass gate valve!! A ball valve would be much better. Usually a decent loop in the exhaust pipe is enough to stop water "gushing in"!!

Any boat owner should know about anti syphon valves be it on the exhaust, intake, heads or wherever & these should have been installed at the time of building. Not up to the engine rebuilder.

Also, if you actually bothered to read other posts in this forum you would see where Serb got his prop!!

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stray said..
Hi Serb, bear in mind that the boat would have been fitted with the 8hp for getting on and off a mooring or dock and cruising along at maybe 5 knots for longer periods. No engine is designed to run wot for long periods of time. I would only try to push that boat over 6 knots in an absolute emergency situation.
If you really want more than hull speed on a regular basis maybe think about a bigger engine as a rEplacement.

Will betta 10hp fit instead? Two cylinders are better than one...I have very little room in engine e department

Thanks

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Lazzz said..

BeamReach said..
If you have anything to add...Can you you make it Constructive and Valuable, rather than Pick...

I thought Uncle Bob's post was very constructive - you do not want a brass gate valve!! A ball valve would be much better. Usually a decent loop in the exhaust pipe is enough to stop water "gushing in"!!

Any boat owner should know about anti syphon valves be it on the exhaust, intake, heads or wherever & these should have been installed at the time of building. Not up to the engine rebuilder.

Also, if you actually bothered to read other posts in this forum you would see where Serb got his prop!!

Lazz,

With all your experience do you think that any other engine with 2 cylinders will fit in the engine room?
Thank you..

Hey Serb, check this out, might be useful for you.......

www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/diamond-valley/boat-accessories-parts/yanmar-yse8-to-ysm8-spare-parts/1292737785

Cheers, Graeme

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BeamReach said..

UncleBob said..

BeamReach said..
Hi Serb.... Make sure they install an anti siphon back flow device above the exhaust hose and fit a gate valve at the stern end, to prevent water gushing up in a following sea or rough water..
I have a YSB 8 and water entered the piston recently, as these 2 devices were not fitted on the last 2 rebuilds....!!!!
Where did you get your new prop and what was the cost?
Cheers, Mike.

Gate valves are usually brass, not what you want with salt water. Bronze is what you want, don't think it is available in gate valves but is in ball valves.
As for the anti siphon, it should already be there and is not part of the engine per se and would not normally be supplied by an engine rebuilder, but it never hurts to ask.

Uncle Bob....
I didn't mention Brass????
If you actually look in Whitworths Catalogue, they stock brass...
If your a well known and Compentant Marine Mechanic Business, you would automatically install an anti siphon valve...
And Not recondition the same engine Twice, without installing the above mentioned devices.
If you have anything to add...Can you you make it Constructive and Valuable, rather than Pick...

Hi precious, you are correct, you didn't mention brass, I did, right after I commented that gate valves are usually brass and I said that I don't think they are available in bronze. . The comment about not wanting brass valves stems from my current boat was equipped with two brass gate valves below the waterline, which were slowly disintegrating and on the first haul out after purchase were removed, in many pieces as they crumbled rather than unscrewed. The rest of your comments don't warrant any further discussion..
Have a nice day.

Gate valves are readily available in bronze. They are expensive though and virtually the same price as SS ball cocks. Years ago during an annual survey on my fishing vessel I had to dismantle all the gate valves so the surveyor could check they were all bronze.

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Ramona said..
Gate valves are readily available in bronze. They are expensive though and virtually the same price as SS ball cocks. Years ago during an annual survey on my fishing vessel I had to dismantle all the gate valves so the surveyor could check they were all bronze.

Thanks for that, I was unaware that they are readily available in bronze, however I would still go for a bronze ball valve, quarter turn versus multiple turns, and definitely NO brass.

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Serb1980 said..

stray said..
Hi Serb, bear in mind that the boat would have been fitted with the 8hp for getting on and off a mooring or dock and cruising along at maybe 5 knots for longer periods. No engine is designed to run wot for long periods of time. I would only try to push that boat over 6 knots in an absolute emergency situation.
If you really want more than hull speed on a regular basis maybe think about a bigger engine as a rEplacement.

Will betta 10hp fit instead? Two cylinders are better than one...I have very little room in engine e department

Thanks

Serb,

I went through the same decision process recently. You can read about it, and my subsequent adventures in my blog here
theboattinkerer.blogspot.com/2021/12/episode-30-diesel-engine-part-1-for.html

Plot spoiler - I went for the reconditioned engine. I am currently nearing the end of rebuilding the engine beds.

Select to expand quote

Achernar said..

Serb1980 said..

stray said..
Hi Serb, bear in mind that the boat would have been fitted with the 8hp for getting on and off a mooring or dock and cruising along at maybe 5 knots for longer periods. No engine is designed to run wot for long periods of time. I would only try to push that boat over 6 knots in an absolute emergency situation.
If you really want more than hull speed on a regular basis maybe think about a bigger engine as a rEplacement.

Will betta 10hp fit instead? Two cylinders are better than one...I have very little room in engine e department

Thanks

Serb,

I went through the same decision process recently. You can read about it, and my subsequent adventures in my blog here
theboattinkerer.blogspot.com/2021/12/episode-30-diesel-engine-part-1-for.html

Plot spoiler - I went for the reconditioned engine. I am currently nearing the end of rebuilding the engine beds.

Thanks,

I have found yanmar specialist in Sydney. They are happy to buy my engine and the spare one I got in garage for parts and in the meantime they will completely restore another yse8 in their shop and fit it instead of mine. They are giving me 5 years warranty..

I must be sure that engine is in a good shape. Sydney ofshore weather can be very rough.

Other option is new beta engine ( the cost is more than double)...I will stick with yanmar ...mine is in pretty bed condition but is still working... today cup like part came off due to a broken screw and oil leaked out but engine was still going... unbelievable... yanmar engines are bullet proof.. once restored from scratch it will do the job. 3 months a go i managed to kick 7 knots with this old and tired Japanese beast...I love them and I know once restored from scratch I am ready to go...

Any thought?

Select to expand quote

Achernar said..

Serb1980 said..

stray said..
Hi Serb, bear in mind that the boat would have been fitted with the 8hp for getting on and off a mooring or dock and cruising along at maybe 5 knots for longer periods. No engine is designed to run wot for long periods of time. I would only try to push that boat over 6 knots in an absolute emergency situation.
If you really want more than hull speed on a regular basis maybe think about a bigger engine as a rEplacement.

Will betta 10hp fit instead? Two cylinders are better than one...I have very little room in engine e department

Thanks

Serb,

I went through the same decision process recently. You can read about it, and my subsequent adventures in my blog here
theboattinkerer.blogspot.com/2021/12/episode-30-diesel-engine-part-1-for.html

Plot spoiler - I went for the reconditioned engine. I am currently nearing the end of rebuilding the engine beds.

Thanks,

I have found yanmar specialist in Sydney. They are happy to buy my engine and the spare one I got in garage for parts and in the meantime they will completely restore another yse8 in their shop and fit it instead of mine. They are giving me 5 years warranty..

I must be sure that engine is in a good shape. Sydney ofshore weather can be very rough.

Other option is new beta engine ( the cost is more than double)...I will stick with yanmar ...mine is in pretty bed condition but is still working... today cup like part came off due to a broken screw and oil leaked out but engine was still going... unbelievable... yanmar engines are bullet proof.. once restored from scratch it will do the job. 3 months a go i managed to kick 7 knots with this old and tired Japanese beast...I love them and I know once restored from scratch I am ready to go...

Any thought?

Select to expand quote

wongaga said..
Hey Serb, check this out, might be useful for you.......

www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/diamond-valley/boat-accessories-parts/yanmar-yse8-to-ysm8-spare-parts/1292737785

Cheers, Graeme

I need a mechanic who will fix the engine. I got parts...even spare engine for parts...

Select to expand quote

Achernar said..

Serb1980 said..

stray said..
Hi Serb, bear in mind that the boat would have been fitted with the 8hp for getting on and off a mooring or dock and cruising along at maybe 5 knots for longer periods. No engine is designed to run wot for long periods of time. I would only try to push that boat over 6 knots in an absolute emergency situation.
If you really want more than hull speed on a regular basis maybe think about a bigger engine as a rEplacement.

Will betta 10hp fit instead? Two cylinders are better than one...I have very little room in engine e department

Thanks

Serb,

I went through the same decision process recently. You can read about it, and my subsequent adventures in my blog here
theboattinkerer.blogspot.com/2021/12/episode-30-diesel-engine-part-1-for.html

Plot spoiler - I went for the reconditioned engine. I am currently nearing the end of rebuilding the engine beds.

Select to expand quote

Achernar said..

Serb1980 said..

stray said..
Hi Serb, bear in mind that the boat would have been fitted with the 8hp for getting on and off a mooring or dock and cruising along at maybe 5 knots for longer periods. No engine is designed to run wot for long periods of time. I would only try to push that boat over 6 knots in an absolute emergency situation.
If you really want more than hull speed on a regular basis maybe think about a bigger engine as a rEplacement.

Will betta 10hp fit instead? Two cylinders are better than one...I have very little room in engine e department

Thanks

Serb,

I went through the same decision process recently. You can read about it, and my subsequent adventures in my blog here
theboattinkerer.blogspot.com/2021/12/episode-30-diesel-engine-part-1-for.html

Plot spoiler - I went for the reconditioned engine. I am currently nearing the end of rebuilding the engine beds.