I have removed the old manual bilge pump access hatch in the cockpit floor and was wondering what is the best way to fill up the hole. There is a plywood core in floor by the looks. Thanks.

Id varnish a piece of marine ply bigger than the hole but same shape, let it dry, bolt it and epoxy it on from underneath using same holes that are already there using csk s/s screws and big flat washers. Once its in place secure it more underneath with fiberglass mesh epoxied on. Then over fill the hole on the top with fibreglass mesh and epoxy, then after its set sand it smooth to be flat.
But silly question :-) would it be worthwhile fitting a new bilge pump there since you've got the hole in place anyway?

Thanks Trek. No, don't want to keep hole, can't get parts for bilge pump, plus I have electric one. There has always been a problem with rain water leakage down into bilge from the hole as well.
I like your solution, my only question is, if I use countersunk screws to hold wood plate in place, how do I seal water out around screw head.

If that is your only manual pump get a replacement and reseal for safety it is good if not law to have a manual pump.

I would cut a piece of aluminium plate exactly the size that came out and screw back in. Mastic to seal. That way you can re install later. Install another manual pump with a removable handle in a position you can pump while steering!

Select to expand quote

Ramona said...
I would cut a piece of aluminium plate exactly the size that came out and screw back in. Mastic to seal. That way you can re install later. Install another manual pump with a removable handle in a position you can pump while steering!

+1

Agreed aluminium would be a touch stronger but its improved strength is limited by the fact its attached to the GRP or fibreglass deck anyway. You would have an aluminium island of strength. I like marine ply because its easy to cut and you can get it easily at Bunnings.

Re the leaking CSK screws, if they are nice and tight they dont let anything through. I guess when you tighten them up you could put a drop of epoxy or sikaflex in the holes to be sure.

Trek (in photo) is about 20 years old and theres various modifications in the cockpit floor with many CSK fasteners going down due to good ideas of skippers gone by and none of them leak :-) Theres eight holding a hot water service in one place and some other holding various brackets and things many of which Ive got not idea what they were ever for!

Actually on the subject of leaks .... where I do get leaks is under the timber grab rails on the cockpit roof and on the aft deck, and under the sets of blocks where the various sheets and halyards run. Drips appear on the saloon ceiling downstairs which spoil a scotch if they happen to drop into one.

I would love to know if any one s had luck fixing that without out taking them right off and doing a full reseal job putting them on. I tried cutting a bit under them and filling with Sikaflex but NG.

Select to expand quote

Trek said..


Actually on the subject of leaks .... where I do get leaks is under the timber grab rails on the cockpit roof and on the aft deck, and under the sets of blocks where the various sheets and halyards run. Drips appear on the saloon ceiling downstairs which spoil a scotch if they happen to drop into one.

I would love to know if any one s had luck fixing that without out taking them right off and doing a full reseal job putting them on. I tried cutting a bit under them and filling with Sikaflex but NG.

Amongst the Seabreezers butyl rubber is popular. You have to take the fitting out (and if there is a core drill out, epoxy, then re-drill) clean and seal. It is very time consuming, but immensely satisfying.

See :

www.pbase.com:443/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

I have done all the fittings on my deck using this approach. When I started the boat was full of water after rain and now it is dry and dusty.

I got my product from Building Products Online.

buildingproductsonline.com.au/butyl-tape.html#product_tabs_related_tabbed

I am not sure if Building Products On-line stock the nice grey stuff any more, but I was told from the distributor(Evo) that the grey stuff is available from most plumbing retailers in Australia. eg Reece.

Here is a shot of the packaging.






Andrew

Keen that's not plywood to my eye, looks just like balsa core.

Dig the current core back first, then as Trek suggested, epoxy a saturated ply backer underneath.
Once hardened, then shape a marine ply insert and use West system epoxy with adhesive filler to make a toothpaste and glue in.
Top with a few layers of mat, tapering over existing.

Matching the height and texture will be the challenge.
You could make a silcon rubber mould from another part of the no skid if you got fancy.

Just make sure everythings roughed up and cleaned well especially surround cockpit floor before glassing.

I'm sure it's got plenty of sunscreen,oil,diesel, blood sweat and tears over the years

Select to expand quote

Andrew68 said..

Trek said..


Actually on the subject of leaks .... where I do get leaks is under the timber grab rails on the cockpit roof and on the aft deck, and under the sets of blocks where the various sheets and halyards run. Drips appear on the saloon ceiling downstairs which spoil a scotch if they happen to drop into one.

I would love to know if any one s had luck fixing that without out taking them right off and doing a full reseal job putting them on. I tried cutting a bit under them and filling with Sikaflex but NG.

Amongst the Seabreezers butyl rubber is popular. You have to take the fitting out (and if there is a core drill out, epoxy, then re-drill) clean and seal. It is very time consuming, but immensely satisfying.

See :

www.pbase.com:443/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

I have done all the fittings on my deck using this approach. When I started the boat was full of water after rain and now it is dry and dusty.

I got my product from Building Products Online.

buildingproductsonline.com.au/butyl-tape.html#product_tabs_related_tabbed

I am not sure if Building Products On-line stock the nice grey stuff any more, but I was told from the distributor(Evo) that the grey stuff is available from most plumbing retailers in Australia. eg Reece.

Here is a shot of the packaging.






Andrew

Thanks Andrew, I'll give it a try.

Select to expand quote

crustysailor said...
Keen that's not plywood to my eye, looks just like balsa core.

Dig the current core back first, then as Trek suggested, epoxy a saturated ply backer underneath.
Once hardened, then shape a marine ply insert and use West system epoxy with adhesive filler to make a toothpaste and glue in.
Top with a few layers of mat, tapering over existing.

Matching the height and texture will be the challenge.
You could make a silcon rubber mould from another part of the no skid if you got fancy.

Just make sure everythings roughed up and cleaned well especially surround cockpit floor before glassing.

I'm sure it's got plenty of sunscreen,oil,diesel, blood sweat and tears over the years

Yes, I think your spot on about the balsa, I couldn't work out why it was quite soft. I like your method particularly making the silicon mould, but at this stage I think I'll leave the hole in case I need to fit a new pump. I will probably sika the old plastic access hatch back in at moment. Bit dodgy I know ;)

no drama. So long as you seal it, esp as it's the cockpit floor.

Keen i was able to get an exact replacement bilge pump..on the web for $60. Let me know if you want. I'll dig up the receipt.

Select to expand quote

mjames said..
Keen i was able to get an exact replacement bilge pump..on the web for $60. Let me know if you want. I'll dig up the receipt.

yes, that would be great mjames, thanks