Hi,
I have a Bukh DV10 sail drive about 1985 vintage, it appears not to be charging the batteries, I suspect it is the regulator rectifier. before I spend the ridiculous amount Bukh want for a new one does anyone now how to test the old one to make sure this is the problem ? also if anyone knows of an aftermarket or alternative to the Bukh one this would be appreciated.

Cowza said..
Hi,
I have a Bukh DV10 sail drive about 1985 vintage, it appears not to be charging the batteries, I suspect it is the regulator rectifier. before I spend the ridiculous amount Bukh want for a new one does anyone now how to test the old one to make sure this is the problem ? also if anyone knows of an aftermarket or alternative to the Bukh one this would be appreciated.

If it cost more than $100 Id go get me self a holden alternator with the regulator built in I bought a new one was around
$200 95 amp
A couple of slight alterations and its done

Thats my old one



Even Ramona suggested to me this as he said
you can drop into any wrecker around Aust and pick up another for $50
I think from memory I just reduced the pivot boss slightly so it was the same as the original alternator the plus is that it doubles your charge rate .
My original I think was 35 amps the holden ( from memory it was around 198 model but you could take it into a retain shop and sort out which holden alternator suits your Bukh and then search for a cheaper one if needed )I bought was 95 amps .
I did change the v belts as well to suit.
Also the holden alternator has a built in regulator. I think I ran an earth and the alternator lead back to the battery and that was it toss and remove your Bukh charging system and your done
The good think about doing this is its a positive not a negative your now not repairing your improving your boat
Chariot will know the wiring off the top of his head

I guess its similar to this one

12.2 Volts on battery, really means ..not charging at all.
It would be complex mechanical modification to fit new style of alternator.
My question is, do you really need engine charge batteries, any solar panel installed.

As I understand, you have old style external regulator. To verify control box
is faulty, you have to measure voltage coming to the regulator box.
Can access wires from magneto and measure voltage.
Multimeter set to AV voltage range and tell us what's AC voltage OUT.

Charriot said..
12.2 Volts on battery, really means ..not charging at all.
It would be complex mechanical modification to fit new style of alternator.
My question is, do you really need engine charge batteries, any solar panel installed.

As I understand, you have old style external regulator. To verify control box
is faulty, you have to measure voltage coming to the regulator box.
Can access wires from magneto and measure voltage.
Multimeter set to AV voltage range and tell us what's AC voltage OUT.

Charriot was on the money

Hello Cowza, I suppose you have already found this but just in case you haven't here is a link to the work shop manual. I had a brief look at other forums and there didn't seem to be an easy fix for your problem (like and off the shelf cheap regulator) so replacing the whole alternator may be the cheaper option. If you are a bit electrically minded the manual has the wiring diagram so you can check the diodes etc.

Cheers



www.boatservicehaarlem.nl/bukh_dv10_dv20_workshop_manual.pdf

thanks everyone for your input, I am new to this forum, & the responses have been all very helpful. I will do some tests on the rectifier hopefully this weekend, & check if the solar panel has bought the batteries back to life. Ramona, the fly wheel doesn't have a vee belt pulley, its really just a slot to wrap a cord around to hand start. I have just had a similar problem with a motorbike I have, turned out to be the stator, & the rectifier. motorbike rectifiers a soo much cheaper it would be good to find one with the same connections, but the boat rec has 6 wires, & the bike rec's seem to have 5 or 7 wires.