I needed a new prop shaft to fit my new prop so despite the fact that these engineers are super expensive ($115 p/h) I thought I'd get them to fit a new cutless bearing while they were there
They told me they would machine the OD to make it a perfect fit which seemed strange because I thought the bearings were very much standard sizes.
When the guy came out to fit the bearing he started bashing it with a dumpy hammer. I asked him if he wanted a block of wood and he went and grabbed a piece of scrap
Finally he got the bearing 95% of the way home after reverting back to bashing it with the hammer without a block to protect it.
Then he asked to borrow my grinder and cut the remaining 5mm off leaving a gap at the forward edge of the skeg







I'm not experienced in marine engineering but I am certain I would have fitted that bearing perfectly without too much trouble
Now I feel like saying I'm not prepared to pay $115ph for what I think is sub standard workmanship
Am I right or wrong

Hi Andy,

the best way to fit any bearing with near zero tolerance is to freeze it. Some keep it the freezer for some hrs others use dry ice.

It also helps a little more to heat the spigot if necessary, very carefully.

Belting it with a metal hammer is a nono. I have a small block of aluminium that I use when necessary.

A little late but hopefully of some help.

Does the "butcher" have a boss?. If so I would ask his boss if this was the standard he expects from his employees.

I personally would have at least put in the fridge freezer at home over night
Then bought some all thread and even used a thrust bearing if needed and a couple owashers just under the od of the bush and wound the bushing in no hammer needed

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HG02 said...
I personally would have at least put in the fridge freezer at home over night
Then bought some all thread and even used a thrust bearing if needed and a couple owashers just under the od of the bush and wound the bushing in no hammer needed

Your right HG and Perkeri I should have asked on here and done it myself
I'll be speaking to his boss Libran

The recess in the Skeg may cause the drag you have removed by fitting the flolding prop! Haha! Any way good to see your giving your boat some loving and $$$ I'm still waiting for my freighted hot water service parts I can see another cold pommy shower coming at 5am before work tomorrow!

What coating did you apply on the new prop btw Andy?

Southace don't laugh I actually thought about the extra drag caused by the recess
Luckily there is a guy here at boat works who applies propspeed at a reasonable price
I will do all the prep with 80 grit and he will do the job for $75
Which is a lot better than the$350 I was quoted by some others
Life's tough without hot water southace

Yep tough cold weekend without hot Water! Roll on monday!

Andy, I think you should check if the idiot with the hammer has caused any damage to the P bracket and it's mounting.

As HG says, the way to get the bearing in nice and easy is to chill it and pull it in with a threaded rod two nuts and two stout washer plates.

Also machining the shaft to suit the bearing is a real baddie.

It does need to be a tight fit but mine was machined to the opening in the hull, freezed overnight and was knocked in with a mallet. Removal involves cutting it up with a hack saw blade or similar and chiseling it out.
The bush should be made to the shaft size, no machining required on the inside although I can imagine a hone might be necessary.

Yep I will check the P bracket for damage
It was the outside diameter of the cutless bearing they said they were going to machine Sorry for the confusion

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andy59 said...
Southace don't laugh I actually thought about the extra drag caused by the recess
Luckily there is a guy here at boat works who applies propspeed at a reasonable price
I will do all the prep with 80 grit and he will do the job for $75
Which is a lot better than the$350 I was quoted by some others
Life's tough without hot water southace

My Propspeed is about $135, they do the lot.

I've had my cutless bearing replaced and they turned it down on a lath and used an industrial strength glue to seat it.

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nswsailor said..
I've had my cutless bearing replaced and they turned it down on a lath and used an industrial strength glue to seat it.

That is a good way of doing it
Turn down outside dia of bearing whilst held between centers on a mandrel so the outside is machined true to the inside. Machine .001" to .002" under size. Lube it up with epoxy or a retaining compound and just tap, press or pull it in. Turn one end .003" to .004" under size for approx 5mm so the bearing starts in nice and straight.

P brackets are only a casting and should not be hit with a hammer. If the P bracket has de zinkafied over the years it will be brittle and likely to break in two.
I had my P bracket break in two after hitting a unmarked (no bouy) old semi submerged mooring line at slow speed. Luckily insurance picked up the 10k bill for replacing bracket, prop shaft and propeller.

Thanks for your advice guys, the P bracket seems OK but I have just coated the whole thing with anti foul so I can't see if it has sustained any damage. I will be having a serious conversation with the marine engineers on Monday.

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Jolene said..

nswsailor said..
I've had my cutless bearing replaced and they turned it down on a lath and used an industrial strength glue to seat it.

That is a good way of doing it
Turn down outside dia of bearing whilst held between centers on a mandrel so the outside is machined true to the inside. Machine .001" to .002" under size. Lube it up with epoxy or a retaining compound and just tap, press or pull it in. Turn one end .003" to .004" under size for approx 5mm so the bearing starts in nice and straight.

Plus for that one

Any updates?