i would like to add some blocks and cleats to our basic traveller setup.

the boat is an Adams 31 centre cockpit so the helm position is just forward of the aft hatch.

it would be great to be able to adjust the traveller from the helm.

any thoughts?

cisco said..

It is an easy do mate. You should be able to nut it out. Those stops have to come off first.

i was thinking the stops could stay on as end stops.

i'm wondering about the pros and cons of a continuous system, and how best to run everything to make it usable from the helm...

Keep the stops but remove the lugs. In place bolt in a pully. Which is probably what 2dogs will post later.

Continuous line would be slower to adjust when you tack. 2 line just set the stops.

Hey Fish,

Pics help!!

Firstly move the stops right to the outside

I would simply use Ronstan or Harken blocks with dyneema/spectra ties to attach to the existing saddle on the car, one each side.

Like these Harken 2147 (it won't let me post a pic of those so google them!)


Then I would drill and tap into the track just inside the stops with two saddles and then attach two more of the same block, using the centre of the block as a becket.
The reason for using a saddle and not a cheek block is you will never have hole spacing issues if replacing the block.

Then you will have 4:1 and run fwd off each end of the track fwd to two swiveling deadeyes and cleats like these

You will then be able to adjust from different angles.

I would use 8mm double braid as the rope, probably solid black as it lasts best in the sun.

Put stopper knots in each rope or tie to something so the car can't go far enough to smash blocks together.

All that should handle the load pretty well.

Car load (sideways) is 0.2 of mainsheet load, guessing your main size and with end boom sheeting your mainsheet load should never exceed 500kg, so max 100kg on your traveller, with 4:1 giving a max pull of 25kg which is easily manageable.

here is our setup. 10 years on, works well

thanks for the suggestions and pics everyone. that gives me enough to go on to start playing the money versus utility game...

rumblefish said..

I would simply use Ronstan or Harken blocks with dyneema/spectra ties to attach to the existing saddle on the car, one each side.

this would mean that a lazy block can flop around on the track though, right?

rumblefish said..

Then I would drill and tap into the track just inside the stops with two saddles and then attach two more of the same block, using the centre of the block as a becket.
The reason for using a saddle and not a cheek block is you will never have hole spacing issues if replacing the block.

not quite following this bit. would the blocks be bolted to another pair of saddles, or ???

twodogs1969 said..

Mine is a different slide with a roller already on it. Fitting is a ronstan rf851

that is a neat solution. i don't think Ronstan make those fittings anymore though. is the cleat part swivelling or fixed?

i am in Sydney. what's the place in Mona Vale?

ta!

andy59 said..
Hi Fishmonkey
I have a set up for you which I just removed off my boat I will post a pic for you this arvo

hey, ta, sounds good!

no probs!

fishmonkey said..
thanks for the suggestions and pics everyone. that gives me enough to go on to start playing the money versus utility game...

rumblefish said..

I would simply use Ronstan or Harken blocks with dyneema/spectra ties to attach to the existing saddle on the car, one each side.

this would mean that a lazy block can flop around on the track though, right?

rumblefish said..

Then I would drill and tap into the track just inside the stops with two saddles and then attach two more of the same block, using the centre of the block as a becket.
The reason for using a saddle and not a cheek block is you will never have hole spacing issues if replacing the block.

not quite following this bit. would the blocks be bolted to another pair of saddles, or ???

twodogs1969 said..

Mine is a different slide with a roller already on it. Fitting is a ronstan rf851

that is a neat solution. i don't think Ronstan make those fittings anymore though. is the cleat part swivelling or fixed?

Question 1 - If you use spectra to lash and tighten then it can't flop around, actually better than a shackle.

Questions 2 - This if for the outside blocks. Attach them to the track using saddles that are bolted to holes you would drill and tap. Attach blocks to saddles with spectra again.

Sorry to take so long to reply
Here's a pic of the traveller I have the end blocks too