To check the crank position - i need to remove the starter motor yeah?

Possibly if there's a timing mark on the flywheel. The manual could say something like with valve 1 open check valve 2, in which case you will need to turn the engine by hand

The flywheel mark will give you TDC for cylinder No 1 (the rear cylinder).
However, you will have to rotate and find TDC for No2 by checking the lobes on the cam.
In that case you might as well leave the starer motor on and find TDC for both cylinders that way.
By that way, I mean, when the cam lobe is not engaged with either (inlet or outlet) rocker arm.
The decompressor is very useful for this job.

That sounds a bit confusing even to me.

gary

Hi JonE

I strongly suggest you remove the starter. You'll then be able to see the flywheel TDC markings for both cylinders.

The other good reason to remove the starter is so you can take a good look at the oil line that runs from behind the starter around to the head at the rear of the engine. This line is infamous for rusting out, and if it gives way during operation you're highly likely to seize the engine. Take it off and if it's not too bad, clean it up and give it several coats of enamel to protect it. If it looks crook, take it to a brake workshop and ask them to make up a new one using the existing fittings. Much cheaper than an OEM one.

Cheers, Graeme

Select to expand quote

wongaga said..
Hi JonE

I strongly suggest you remove the starter. You'll then be able to see the flywheel TDC markings for both cylinders.

The other good reason to remove the starter is so you can take a good look at the oil line that runs from behind the starter around to the head at the rear of the engine. This line is infamous for rusting out, and if it gives way during operation you're highly likely to seize the engine. Take it off and if it's not too bad, clean it up and give it several coats of enamel to protect it. If it looks crook, take it to a brake workshop and ask them to make up a new one using the existing fittings. Much cheaper than an OEM one.

Cheers, Graeme

Thanks Graeme.

I stand amended.
I wasn't aware that there are TDC marks for each cylinder.
And I thought that I knew everything.

Graeme's plan is the way to go,

Gary

Yeah I was having the horrors and thinking I had to pull the front off the saildrive or something....

I can tell you a good story about this oil line on my 2GM. About 8 years ago on my annual Bass Strait criuise, I headed to Port Fairy non-stop and solo. On arrival I was stuffed of course, so I hit the hay as soon as I berthed and left checking things over till the next morning.
To my horror, the bilge was black with copious amounts of engine oil and the level in the sump was about 5mm below the lower dipstick mark. I found the leak was from the oil line, so I removed it ....... and it fell into two pieces as I lifted it out!

Talk about lucky - the oil was being pumped out as I motored into the Moyne river, and I was probably only a few minutes away from a cooked motor. Hence my advice. Lucky me! The main problem is drips from the head anode which sits just above it, so I refit that anode very carefully now. Not quite such a problem with FW cooling maybe but still worth checking.

Cheers, Graeme

Funny story about cam timing....last week we dyno'ed the car after fitting a new fuel injection system. At about 7500rpm and 180mph something let go, which caused the camshaft /crank timing synch to drift a wee bit.
Anyone looking for a new mooring anchor? You won't even need to drop the sump to drain the oil, the dozen new holes are doing an admirable job.

? Any Sound Effects ?

Sounded a lot like throwing a big bucket of nuts and bolts into a trailer!
At least it's still cheaper than yacht racing. The price for this (and selling off what we can salvage from the old engine) won't be much different than a new sail wardrobe on the old boat. Gotta love forced upgrades .