Hi all, in pre planning stages for haul out of my 34 Vande Stadt and going to repaint all uppers after local Cormorants 'found' her decks and caused a fair bit of damage - not to mention the smell.
I intend to sandblast hull and start from scratch below, but not this time around unfortunately.
So while she's on the hard, my intention is to give the topsides and hull a birthday, with general maintenance and Antifoul below.
Any suggestions for an appropriate 2 pack for the tip sides please brains trust?
P.S. any positive tips for referring the birds to another spot? ( he says awaiting a cheeky sailors response )

I use jotamastic primer & jotun hardtop as the name implies it's a hard finish. but not as hard as convincing the birds to go elsewhere !

Awlgrip gives very good results if the preparation and application is done correctly. Roll and tip.

www.practical-sailor.com/mailport-ps-advisor/tips-on-rolling-and-tipping-with-awlgrip

www.awlgrip.com/products/finishes/awlgrip-topcoat-brushroller

Is the Van de Stadt 34 steel or plywood?

Recent repaints used Wattyl Industrial finishes.
Seems easy to use, forgiving in application and easy to repair.
UV resistance seems good.
good result when applied outdoors.

But you can't beat a shed for application

I have been using Wattyl Epinamel epoxy high build and Poly U 400 for a long while and keep going back. Just last month I finally cracked how to roll it. I used the rolling thinners L754 and used 20 percent thinners, which is what you do when spraying. I also used a short nap microfibre roller from Bunnings. It came out as good as my spray jobs, I don't spray a lot but it did really well at joining up around corners. Really happy because it means I can paint all the deck and cockpit without having to spray. Buy it at a Wattyl trade store.

So the Epinamel is the undercoat, the Poly U the top coat(s)...do you apply any clear as well?

No. No clear coat. I am not looking for a super duper finish. That takes huge amounts of time fairing. Just a nice smooth topcoat is all I want. I once spent 3 months fairing a 38ft tri with co workers. We could have done it in one month if we accepted a non perfect finish. Beware the wet look, it will show up all fairing errors

i think if i ever get mine re-done i will have to pay the ferry-man!!

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lydia said..



But you can't beat a shed for application

If you look closely the high gloss was taken out of the superstructure paint work as the surfaces were not fair enough.
The hull was very fair so full effect.
Also if you have unfair surfaces use a slightly different tint to catch the eye and take it way from the unfair surface.

End result

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woko said..
I use jotamastic primer & jotun hardtop as the name implies it's a hard finish. but not as hard as convincing the birds to go elsewhere !

Do you find the Jotamastic primer good to conceal imperfections on the deck with a couple of coats before the hardtop?

Any good epoxy high build primer will do a good job of building up thickness. But it is up to the person doing the prep to use the thickness to fair the surface. Ideally you should be Longboarding filler if the surface is unfair. High build won't add enough thickness to cover irregularities in hull fairness. But if you have faired with me 60 grit, at the end of fairing, then clearcoat with epoxy resin, then high build is great at covering the tiny wobbles left. Use a guide coat and sand with an orbital and down to 180 paper

Like kankama said it depends on how much imperfection it is, I don't tend to use jotamastic as a high build, but more for its priming / bonding ability, ie : it's substrate prep tolerance is impressive, and the jotamastic 90 doesn't go chalkie like the old stuff so it can be used as the primer top coat, it is epoxy so all precautions need to be taken when using it, and of course the jotun top costs work really good with it, hardtop, antifoul etc

Hempels marine coatings. Its used in all the commercial sea ports around the world. It always struck me how rusty steel yachts look and then you look at commercial vessels that use professional marine coatings like Hempels that look great. I helped a friend with his Steel VDS34 and thats what we used.

What I liked was the amount of product information that they give you and that you can get. Rather than just relying on big name yacht chandler products with no real track record you should chat with people who do commercial shipping and trawlers. It can also be more cost effective. They also have a full range of primer products that varies depending on the condition of the hull which you will not find from other companies. If you get confused just call them, they love talking marine coatings all day long!