A little history on the subject of the Luff curve Gizmo Posted 11/4/2009 in Sail-making/Recutting-sailboard-sails ...I will tell you how I did the luff curve on the "Sandpiper" yacht that I designed the sail for, many years
ago. The rig was set up on the yacht (no sails on) and a rope was tied to the top of the mast to the boom and
sheeted in to about the fully sheeted in position. A string line was then used between the top of the mast to
the gooseneck point taking measurements at equal intervals along the string line.
Landyacht Posted 13/4/2009 in Sail-making/Recutting-sailboard-sails ...the luf bend on the "recutting essay " came after trying flatter and rounder types of sails on a varety of
masts. I settled on a particularly nice sail that was made for landsailors back in 1991 by Ken O'brian of KA
sails Adelaide. I had had his sail slightly recut by Deiter Drabic of Drastic Designs in Esperence. that sail
and the other 10 we had made keep turning up after 18 years and they still work really well on a large variety
of masts, stiff and soft. Incidently,the original luff curve on Club88 sails was set by the sailmaker using
his "favourite wooden batten" on the loft floor as a template Basically its a good compromise bend considered
from 30 sails over 30 years.
nebbian Posted 3/5/2012 Sail-making/How-tight-should-it-be ...What you need to do is change the curve of the luff to match the curve of your mast. Normally this means
you measure the curve of your mast under load, then draw a slightly different curve for your sail -- it should
extend slightly forward of the mast near the base, then go slightly behind the mast near the top. At the very
bottom and very top it should be exactly at your mast curve though. The difference here is like a slight S
shape. This is called "Luff shaping" and is one way to get belly into the bottom of the sail. It is heavily
dependant on mast curve (which is definitely NOT constant between masts). Another way is called "Seam
shaping" which is where you cut each panel with a bit of a curve in it where you put the battens in. This is
much less dependant on the mast's bend curve, so is much more mast-tolerant. This would be my preferred
approach to getting a nice stable sail. Regardless of which way you choose, the top leech of the sail should
have some looseness to it, this means that it will flap around a bit and will work to make your sail a whole
lot more stable in gusts. When a gust hits, this will exhaust, and pull some shape out of the bottom of the
sail as well, meaning you don't tip over. When you hit a lull, the top of the sail swings back upwind a bit,
making the whole sail more efficient at low wind speeds. Which is exactly what you want!
Gizmo Posted 11/4/2009 in Sail-making/Recutting-sailboard-sails... Here is a link to "How to make a sailboard sail" worth having a look at.
http://www.sailrepair.co.uk/makingsail.htm This link explains what the fuss is all about but is no longer available online. I grabbed a copy from the
Wayback Machine and can post it here if there are no copyright issues. Please let me know.
The article also has a companion piece about adjusting the luff curve to suit different masts. It is also on
the Wayback Machine but it was saved without pictures. Does anybody have an intact copy?
www.sailrepair.co.uk/sailors.htm
There is a lot of good information on sail design on the Ezzy page as well.
www.ezzy.com/rig-support/ezzy-basic-sail-design-theory/ Where I am now Luff shaping allows for control of twist and draft. If downhaul is increased to the point where the mast bends
to meet the Luff pocket LE, the sail will be flat, save for whatever seam shaping was added.
My models to this point did not account for this would have resulted in a slab-sided sail. I was struggling to
account for how Landyacht shaped his sail but I think I understand it better now. I will put some numbers to
it on my next post.