I'm a noobe to kitesurfing. I recently acquired a Cabrinha Switchblade (2008) and Crossbow (2006) (I know, old kites - I'm hoping I can learn on these and buy newer later) and was rather shocked to discover when reading the user manuals that the CAS works differently - Crossbow "pull BLACK ball to de-power" and Switchblade "pull RED ball to de-power".

This appears to be a rather radical change. Can any one shed some light on this please? I realise that this will probably only be used to tune the kite for each "session". Should I "change balls" to keep it consistent between kites (I have enough to confuse me as I attempt to progress) if so is the more recent Switchblade the better of the two options? Thanks.

2008 Switchies were excellent all-round kites in their day. If it's in good condition, keep it, so long as you understand its safety limitations - flags to one rear line. This means that you either ride "suicide" or you have the leash in a very annoying position that means any rotations are really out of the question. If you're unsure what this all means and how it works, find someone who can show you, otherwise you're riding without being responsible for your own safety and that of people around you.


2006 Crossbow - ditch it. Regardless of condition the massive bar pressure will make everything difficult.

Ditch what you have read, look at the kites to work out what is really going on, I have had Cabrinhas since the Crossbow 2 and cannot remember any with the colours crossed, could be a typo in the manual you are reading...

What smithy said!!! Learn what does what and why and how, don't just rote learn the manual or lesson points...

Use those crappy kites to get your basic skills down, then get some nice kites that you have the skills not to trash :)

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Smithy said..

Ditch what you have read, look at the kites to work out what is really going on, I have had Cabrinhas since the Crossbow 2 and cannot remember any with the colours crossed, could be a typo in the manual you are reading...

Many thanks to all for the advice (this a great forum site for info for a noobe!!!)
I did have another look the the bars and lines from both kites and they are the same (RED to de-power). I have to say that the user manuals look like they could have done with some more proof reading all round so could very well be a typo.

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djdojo said..

2008 Switchies were excellent all-round kites in their day. If it's in good condition, keep it, so long as you understand its safety limitations - flags to one rear line. This means that you either ride "suicide" or you have the leash in a very annoying position that means any rotations are really out of the question. If you're unsure what this all means and how it works, find someone who can show you, otherwise you're riding without being responsible for your own safety and that of people around you.


2006 Crossbow - ditch it. Regardless of condition the massive bar pressure will make everything difficult.

Thanks djdojo. Your post answered a few other questions I had rattling around in my head about these kites WRT QRS and flagging. I was thinking the only way would be to attach the leash to the ring on the end of the rear line at the end of the bar. Didn't think that was an acceptable option. Looked around at other kites on the beach but none older than 2009 when the system changed (line passes down the centre through centre of bar and the QRS). Is there a way of modifying (obviously get it done by a pro) the older systems?

Sadly the Switchblade has some "mileage" on it (and a number of repaired "wounds") and the canopy fabric kind of feels soft and vulnerable whereas the Crossbow is still in pretty good nick for its age (canopy quite crisp). The "massive bar pressure" you mention - is that the reason for the pulley system on the Crossbow bar? And it's still heavy? Not that it matters much at this stage of my "kiting life" but could I still get some useful time on the Crossbow if the Switchblade collapses in a heap? The old Crossbow inflation procedure is a bit of a PITA!!!

The Cabrinha carbon fibre bar that I got with the Crossbow - would that have been an upgrade or was that standard issue with these old kites?

Another question - WRT the old Cabrinha "total de-power systems" (where you push the bar past the ball - which BTW was pretty difficult to shift - a bit of sand in there and it needs quite some effort to shift it so that the bar can move all the way back) - is that system effective enough?

Once again, thanks to all for the help and advice.

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Kamikuza said..

What smithy said!!! Learn what does what and why and how, don't just rote learn the manual or lesson points...

Use those crappy kites to get your basic skills down, then get some nice kites that you have the skills not to trash :)

Thanks Kamikuza. I'm looking forward to the day I know exactly what will suite my needs and go shopping for a decent kite. Cheers.

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SansWind said..

Kamikuza said..

What smithy said!!! Learn what does what and why and how, don't just rote learn the manual or lesson points...

Use those crappy kites to get your basic skills down, then get some nice kites that you have the skills not to trash :)

Thanks Kamikuza. I'm looking forward to the day I know exactly what will suite my needs and go shopping for a decent kite. Cheers.

Aren't we all! My needs keep changing

The Crossbow 1 had heavy bar pressure. I didn't find that a problem - having windsurfed and it can be a bit of a help at times when you are learning, but it does tend to teach you bad habits like pulling on the bar for something other than sheeting the kite.

There is no need to reduce the pressure, but there was a bridle mod which I did to my Crossbow 1 and it did reduce the pressure but made the steering slightly more vague.
Its a mod where you really need to know what you are doing or you could make the kite uncontrollable, so it would need to be done by someone who understood all the things that can go wrong. It involves getting a replacement length of bridle line made of exactly the right length of 3mm dyneema to replace a pair of lines, and fitting a pulley on the end of another line.
There are diagrams about it here. kiteforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2322178&start=30

Like I said, it doesn't need to be done - the Crossbow will be just as suitable for a beginner without it.

It is worth buying a new replacement inflation valve as it makes it easier to pump the kite up. The original valve had a lot of back-pressure.

You will just have to use the original leash system to a single front line. It would be possible to rig a through the bar system but it would probably cost as much as the kite cost you to do it. Most leashes will not reach it so you have to put a small extension line with a ring on the bottom of it, onto the flagging ring of the kite.

The carbon bar was standard.

I moved the stopper cylinder up the centre line out of the way when learning, - or you can reduce the force to click the stopper into and out of position with a bit of light sanding of the sharp edges of the cylinder on the centre line.

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terminal said..

The Crossbow 1 had heavy bar pressure. I didn't find that a problem - having windsurfed and it can be a bit of a help at times when you are learning, but it does tend to teach you bad habits like pulling on the bar for something other than sheeting the kite.

There is no need to reduce the pressure, but there was a bridle mod which I did to my Crossbow 1 and it did reduce the pressure but made the steering slightly more vague.
Its a mod where you really need to know what you are doing or you could make the kite uncontrollable, so it would need to be done by someone who understood all the things that can go wrong. It involves getting a replacement length of bridle line made of exactly the right length of 3mm dyneema to replace a pair of lines, and fitting a pulley on the end of another line.
There are diagrams about it here. kiteforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2322178&start=30

Like I said, it doesn't need to be done - the Crossbow will be just as suitable for a beginner without it.

It is worth buying a new replacement inflation valve as it makes it easier to pump the kite up. The original valve had a lot of back-pressure.

You will just have to use the original leash system to a single front line. It would be possible to rig a through the bar system but it would probably cost as much as the kite cost you to do it. Most leashes will not reach it so you have to put a small extension line with a ring on the bottom of it, onto the flagging ring of the kite.

The carbon bar was standard.

I moved the stopper cylinder up the centre line out of the way when learning, - or you can reduce the force to click the stopper into and out of position with a bit of light sanding of the sharp edges of the cylinder on the centre line.

Thanks terminal

That info was all very interesting and informative. I looked at the Crossbow mod diagrams and I can understand the thinking behind it. Might be worth a try sometime in the future. I'd probably need to get a lot more kite time under my belt before I'd be able to appreciate the benefit/difference though.

As you suggested I'm trying to think of a way to put an extension on the front line at the grab ball above the CAS and pass it thought the bar for the leash to hook on to. The ring on the end of the front line behind the grab ball would have to go because it wouldn't pass through the hole in the bar. So something big enough to hold the line at the grab ball but small enough to pass thought the hole in the bar (with out getting stuck!!). Mmmmmmmm...... tricky. I'm getting way ahead of myself here.

Ok. Back to the basics. Thanks again.