I rode a new spot today and being a moron that I am, I didn't check the spot out for hazards.

I smashed my new board into an underwater pipeline and I've damaged the rail.

Had this board for a month and used it 4 times at best.
I'm devastated and about to fall into a very dark depression.

Its not too bad. Deff still rideable, but I just need some advice on how to fix it?

Its wood core.

Is there any special epoxy, glass, resin etc?
Does the board have to air out for a few days to loose any moisture in the core??
If I yell and abuse it, will it go away like my ex girlfriends??

Seriously..... Any advice??

Looks to be cosmetic !! chiilaxe and just ride it!!

Nah.... The rails all soft.

Swap my bindings around 180 degrees so I'm back on the other edge!!

Its not too bad but its got a few splinters and the gash goes right through to the top glass.

Seriously, I've ridden it 5-6 times!
Even bought a homo board bag so I wouldn't damage it when travelling!

mate it's cactus. throw it out with your hard rubbish (whats your address btw...)

Use epoxy repair glue or take it to a shop.

get the cheap chinese **** araldite from the doller store at your nearest "worst suburb" shops. and just smear that **** all over it after youve given her a good clean and dry. try not to make the coat toooo thick but dont stress bout it being to thick either all my non wake boards are just lined and edged with araldite makes no real performance difference

Negative

Araldite is not designed for continuous immersion and can get all fkd up.
Plus it is yellowy and not UV stable.

"The whole rail is soft" is not the same as a small punture needing a seal up to avoid water ingress.
So do it right.

As a temporary repair, the EPOXY based (ie styrofoam compatible) repair like Knead-It sticks and the EPOXY Solar-Rez are tops.
Note - they are not just normal surfboard (styrene resin) repair kits - those will melt your core.
Ragzilla I doubt your core is wood. Maybe polystyrene core with a wood and glass laminate?
If so, same as fixing sandwich construction windsurf or SUPboards, so have a look at boardlady.com or the 13 bazillion threads on board repair in the windsurf forums.
As a start - West epoxy resin, some glass, some q-cell, $40 all up and you are away.

Do it right.

The photo's don't really show much. But if you have got a squishy rail. Get some west system epoxy.
Mount the board so the damaged rail Is vertical. Pour the epoxy into the damaged bit of rail.
Make sure the epoxy soaks in. You may need pry apart some of the damaged bit gently to get the epoxy in.
Get a piece of plastic bag (ziplock plastic bags work well). Place the plastic bag over the damage. Clamp it flat.
Wait for the epoxy to go off. Sand any access off the rail.
Go ride

Ragzilla, Mark is spot on here but I would like to add a few things....

1. Before repairing Anything check to see where the damage starts and finishes.

2. Its not wood core its a laminate to prevent dings (funny in this situation though)

3. Always before starting tape up the area and lightly sand where you are going to glass.

4. Soft rails go further than you can feel, so as Mark said mix qcell and
west system together pull apart the cracks and buy a syringe to squirt it in.
The only problem will be it will be a bright white repair but it will be fixed.
If you want it clear just inject the resin BUT it will make the board heavy...

5. If there is an open crack you have to glass it to prevent it from coming apart.

There are heaps of "DIY repairs" on the forums. Check youtube as well.

I usually go to a surfboard repairer and get them to do it.

They always do it quicker and cheaper than I can because they have the tools at hand.

Good Luck

Select to expand quote

Mark _australia said..

Negative

Araldite is not designed for continuous immersion and can get all fkd up.
Plus it is yellowy and not UV stable.

"The whole rail is soft" is not the same as a small punture needing a seal up to avoid water ingress.
So do it right.

As a temporary repair, the EPOXY based (ie styrofoam compatible) repair like Knead-It sticks and the EPOXY Solar-Rez are tops.
Note - they are not just normal surfboard (styrene resin) repair kits - those will melt your core.
Ragzilla I doubt your core is wood. Maybe polystyrene core with a wood and glass laminate?
If so, same as fixing sandwich construction windsurf or SUPboards, so have a look at boardlady.com or the 13 bazillion threads on board repair in the windsurf forums.
As a start - West epoxy resin, some glass, some q-cell, $40 all up and you are away.

Do it right.

im gonna figure out how to take photos on this laptop brb chode fingers

okay sussed it


yeah OP as i said hit up the 2 buck shop and just slather on some knock off araldite. itll cost you nothing and will take like 5? minutes? then let her cure for a day and shes sweet as.

you can **** around for hours throwing cash at her if you want but its a ****ing slingshot twinny ffs

Select to expand quote

Plummet said..
The photo's don't really show much. But if you have got a squishy rail. Get some west system epoxy.
Mount the board so the damaged rail Is vertical. Pour the epoxy into the damaged bit of rail.
Make sure the epoxy soaks in. You may need pry apart some of the damaged bit gently to get the epoxy in.
Get a piece of plastic bag (ziplock plastic bags work well). Place the plastic bag over the damage. Clamp it flat.
Wait for the epoxy to go off. Sand any access off the rail.
Go ride

old plum pants here is on the money

but rather then drop cash on a tin of resin you aint going to use again just grab the $2 shop knock off araldite ... anyways think its pretty clear for you now what to do im out

mark you must have a bloody big nostril to go with them fingers of yours, make me walk outside n **** rickam rackem frickem schmaken

Select to expand quote

Kozzie said...

Mark _australia said..

Negative

Araldite is not designed for continuous immersion and can get all fkd up.
Plus it is yellowy and not UV stable.

"The whole rail is soft" is not the same as a small punture needing a seal up to avoid water ingress.
So do it right.

As a temporary repair, the EPOXY based (ie styrofoam compatible) repair like Knead-It sticks and the EPOXY Solar-Rez are tops.
Note - they are not just normal surfboard (styrene resin) repair kits - those will melt your core.
Ragzilla I doubt your core is wood. Maybe polystyrene core with a wood and glass laminate?
If so, same as fixing sandwich construction windsurf or SUPboards, so have a look at boardlady.com or the 13 bazillion threads on board repair in the windsurf forums.
As a start - West epoxy resin, some glass, some q-cell, $40 all up and you are away.

Do it right.

im gonna figure out how to take photos on this laptop brb chode fingers

okay sussed it


yeah OP as i said hit up the 2 buck shop and just slather on some knock off araldite. itll cost you nothing and will take like 5? minutes? then let her cure for a day and shes sweet as.

you can **** around for hours throwing cash at her if you want but its a ****ing slingshot twinny ffs

DONT DARE EVER SPEAK ABOUT MY SLINGSHOT TWINNY LIKE THAT!!! HOW OFFENSIVE!!

I'm mostly worried that the core will get water logged and will destroy my board.

Kozzie @ .... There is no frecking way I'm gunna go put $2 arreldite my board ...... Remind me never to borrow one of your Para's ...... There's two ways to do things in life...... The right way ..... And the kozzie way!!

A little pottle of west system is worth while having in the shed for future repairs. The epoxy resin will seal the repair. No worry about degredation of core.

Select to expand quote

Ragzilla said..
I'm mostly worried that the core will get water logged and will destroy my board.

Kozzie @ .... There is no frecking way I'm gunna go put $2 arreldite my board ...... Remind me never to borrow one of your Para's ...... There's two ways to do things in life...... The right way ..... And the kozzie way!!

hahahaha im super anal about my kites and canopys to point where none of them since like mid 2000's has ever had more then 5 minutes of sunlight before shes covered up with either a shadecloth or someone elses kite nearby hehehehe but yeah i went to the chinese shop today it was $3.50!!! but it had some fancy brand name like bondibondo nonsense bit to fancy.

once you have a firm understanding on what epoxy is youd understand why id tell you to slather on the cheap stuff
the fancy **** has to much of a exothermic reaction which releases alot of heat basicly when its curing it "strengthens" by extrudeing its bonds this process makes heat i find the cheaper epoxy thats not branded by aero research the reaction times alittle slower so the bonds actually form in a more controlled manner. this is why pre heating your epoxy slows down the cureing time.

but hay what the **** do i know on the matter :P

^^^ so use a west 209 super slow hardener if you want to to go slow. I use all 3

But yeah I'd know fk all after 20yrs of moulding carbon parts for racecars, manufacturing a high end composite rifle stock and repairing sandwich WS boards. I just didn't feel the need to put up a bunch of pics.

Your $2 sh1t is fine for a temp repair or tacking things together (I've used it for exactly that) but when he says soft rail around the ding to me that means proper repair. To you that means just using a bit more $2 crap?? I hope not.

It is a new board he has hardly used, so if he follows your advice he ends up with a yellow globby crap rail and whilst yes, he is back on the water, he is likely disappointed.

BTW nice use of 'exothermic' but that does not denote an expert.

I agree with Mark - a good quality epoxy (2 part system) is what I love to play with - and a bit of carbon fibre with release cloth or glad wrap !! And if you get your catalyst to resin ratios right and particularly in the thin layer of a repair there is absolutely no heating !! Araldite is an epoxy glue system but just not the right one for a sailboard or kiteboard repair - horrible stuff really!!
Above a sandwich bag was mentioned to cover the glass repair - personally I prefer (release cloth) or the more common glad wrap as it just doesn't stick to epoxy and it means you can use tape over the glad wrap to mould the form of the repair - I simply use masking tape.

you guys are all talking as if he is going to run out and contact a ****n wholesaler and not walk out the door with cash still in his pocket hahahaaha you are all missing the point. he needs a simple cheap fix he cant **** up on his own. where on earth are you getting this globby yellow **** from mark? it dries rock hard clear im useing a board thats had this exact repair now for 3 years going on 4 and its still rock hard and clear and im going to hazard a guess its had..... 8? hours a week in the water for that 3 and bit years... **** it even got stolen and went to cashies and all the corners are still clear and solid and harder then steel.

the boards worth xxx amount of dollers 2nd hand undamaged you gotto figure out your costs for this project and seriously think about it. everything he does is going to take alot more time hes gotto research new products mentioned hell have to google this and that he will probably have to buy a clamp or a vice all of these factors are starting to make a repair on a board thats allready only worth x amount of dollers more and more if i hadnt dont pretty much the same thing to pretty much the same board and then repaired it pretty much the same way and then had it last for another ...maaaaan numbers.... 8 times 52 times 3 ..... thousand hours?

anyways whatever heres to another 3 years of yellow goopy mush that doesnt work. that back corner (and all the corners for that matter) had delaminated both top and bottom i was living out at yeppoon back then and had no tools so had to do the $2 2 pack from the china shop and shes still so solid even the drops and **** i just let cure on it are still there. i thought the water would eventually smooth em down but NOPE .... why is this? well because the 2 doller **** is still an epoxy resin with a cureing agent and holly ****balls thats all that matters not the company that sells it. not for these repairs

oh and again.
$2
2 minutes
3-4 years (TEMPORARY REPAIR AHHHHHHHHHH HAHAHAHA ****ing chode fingers you make me wet mate)
0 skill
no tools required


discovering how to use the laptop camera was a bad idea i think im going to regret all this pretty soon....

The point is doing a job on a minor repair to learn how, will pay for itself time and again and then when u have a major one you don't care cos you learned (and still have quality stuff left.) so you go and fix the big repair.

I'm out - as typical for the kite forum, the guy asking a question got a red thumb (seriously WTF!!???) and helpers get flamed.

Select to expand quote

Kozzie said...
you guys are all talking as if he is going to run out and contact a ****n wholesaler and not walk out the door with cash still in his pocket hahahaaha you are all missing the point. he needs a simple cheap fix he cant **** up on his own. where on earth are you getting this globby yellow **** from mark? it dries rock hard clear im useing a board thats had this exact repair now for 3 years going on 4 and its still rock hard and clear and im going to hazard a guess its had..... 8? hours a week in the water for that 3 and bit years... **** it even got stolen and went to cashies and all the corners are still clear and solid and harder then steel.

the boards worth xxx amount of dollers 2nd hand undamaged you gotto figure out your costs for this project and seriously think about it. everything he does is going to take alot more time hes gotto research new products mentioned hell have to google this and that he will probably have to buy a clamp or a vice all of these factors are starting to make a repair on a board thats allready only worth x amount of dollers more and more if i hadnt dont pretty much the same thing to pretty much the same board and then repaired it pretty much the same way and then had it last for another ...maaaaan numbers.... 8 times 52 times 3 ..... thousand hours?

anyways whatever heres to another 3 years of yellow goopy mush that doesnt work. that back corner (and all the corners for that matter) had delaminated both top and bottom i was living out at yeppoon back then and had no tools so had to do the $2 2 pack from the china shop and shes still so solid even the drops and **** i just let cure on it are still there. i thought the water would eventually smooth em down but NOPE .... why is this? well because the 2 doller **** is still an epoxy resin with a cureing agent and holly ****balls thats all that matters not the company that sells it. not for these repairs

oh and again.
$2
2 minutes
3-4 years (TEMPORARY REPAIR AHHHHHHHHHH HAHAHAHA ****ing chode fingers you make me wet mate)
0 skill
no tools required


discovering how to use the laptop camera was a bad idea i think im going to regret all this pretty soon....

Yeew .. Fix it ride it