Kooks are usually the most stoked people, as shown impressively in the video.

That's what it's all about..
But in terms of surfing with boardshorts over wetsuit, he might as well be a trendsetter!
I loved the spiritual parts (which do hold some truth I think, if you wouldn't know how ridiculous the dude actually "surfs"), and the obligatory surfdude-aftersession-philosophical-jamming.
Who can blame the guy, if he worked as an accountant for most of his life, it's understandable that he wants to feel that sensation of freedom again and conquer the waves with his boardshaper of trust. From business dude to washed up beach bum, seems like he lives his life in an unconventional order.