Following on from the thread where various chicken loops were tested under load, and some of them were found to take a large amount of force to trigger, I tried my own loop.

And it was way, way too hard to trigger. So I replaced the chicken loop with another type, that is easily able to be triggered using one hand (when under load).

However this meant that I had to add another depower strap to the line, as the old depower cleat wasn't able to be used with the new loop.

Can someone tell me if I've tuned this the right way please? I used tape on the workbench to mark the position of the leader line. On the old system it was attached to the furthest knot from the bar. Both chicken loops were attached to the same point.

Old system, minimum length:


Old system, maximum length:


New system, minimum length (note the position of the tape, normally I wouldn't use this much depower but it's there if I need it)


New system, maximum length:



And lastly, testing how much force it takes to trigger the safety leash quick release. Photo taken as I was dangling from a ladder before triggering it. This style triggers quite easily, as does the new chicken loop:



Many thanks go out to Hans at Resaka (http://www.resaka.com.au/ ) for his help in setting up a new safety system, if you live in the northern burbs of Perth then I highly recommend going in and having a chat

The Ozone system is simple and one of the best I've come across



Chicken loop release works under load and doesn't tear your hand open when you pull it (big red collar in photo). Flagging line at the chicken loop.

Trim strap rope runs through a cleat and is very easy to set and release. Mine has had 12 months of use with no sign of wear.

^I agree, and also when you need to reset the chicken loop in the water it easy to do one handed.

Can I use different chicken loop for best kahoona? The one I have right now is in scary conditiion. Does anyone know if best bars are alright under high loads?

Looks confusing. I'd say a better way is to lay your lines out and check the length. With most kites with the trim strap out (full power) and the bar pulled against the chicken loop the lines should be equal length at the kite.

Disclaimer: Check your instructions for your brand of kite though!!

^ Actually i would say if you did that you would be very underpowered.
Most kites I fly you need your trim strap all the way out and your lines at equal length when your bar is about 1/4 the way up your depower line (for long throw depower lines).

That pic has a sinister look about it. ^^^
The spooky shadow that's cast on the vertical blinds gives me the shivers.
Brrrr.
No tree in the backyard, hey ?
So, is that red thing hanging from the ladder the new, secret chicken loop ?
Does it have a brand name ?

This post again shows that if one manufacturer build a reasonable quality bar most kiters will buy that bar and use it with their own kite.

Maybe a company like Cardboard or Briskites or Kitepower etc etc can develop their own bar and save us from all this hassle.

^^^ Yeah awesome idea except... what is your ideal bar, this is where the problem begins.

Sure, there's no single ideal bar (and singles' bars are far from ideal), but also no reason to just accept the bar that comes with your kite of choice. The best kite for my needs may not necessarily come with the best bar for me, yet a lot of kiters do seem mystified about daring to use a bar from another brand.

How many times do we see the question, "Can I use bar xyz with kite abc?"

Especially with 4liners this should be a no-brainer. Get the one with the chicken loop, depower, and flagging system that's right for you. I see plenty of room for a specialist bar company to give the kite-makers some competition in terms of price and design.

^ I'm sure most people don't look too closely at the bar and concentrate on the kite only when they make a decision to buy a new kite. Brand loyalty also runs very deep and over-infuences choice.

I only have 2 kites. Don't need any more. And must admit, they are the same brand and model. Same bar for each so I'm familar with all aspects of the set up. I've found that having different makes of kites with different bars, safety etc can offer too much confusion when you need to make quick decisions.

Select to expand quote

waveslave said...

That pic has a sinister look about it. ^^^
The spooky shadow that's cast on the vertical blinds gives me the shivers.
Brrrr.
No tree in the backyard, hey ?
So, is that red thing hanging from the ladder the new, secret chicken loop ?
Does it have a brand name ?

Yes, it's the "EMERGENCY" brand death leash.

Select to expand quote

sir ROWDY said...

^ Actually i would say if you did that you would be very underpowered.
Most kites I fly you need your trim strap all the way out and your lines at equal length when your bar is about 1/4 the way up your depower line (for long throw depower lines).

Fair enough...I must admit I haven't owned a large selection of different brands which is why I put in a disclaimer! Thats the way I set up my havocs though and they fly right... Once you get used to your kite you know when it starts to stall at full power then that is as far as you can go.. I guess its best to try to understand your kite rather than go just by what knot you are on.

Have you consider to replace your O'Sh!t line?



No seriously, I found this on Monkey Griffin kites;
www.monkeykites.com/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi

Equal length lines at full power is a correctly trimmed kite (as stated already above). However, most kites front lines stretch over time so the end result is the bar will be 1/4 up from the chicken loop when fully powered. Meaning that the kite is slightly over trimmed (more likely to stall).