Does anyone know what paints to use on kiteboards? going to paint 07 cab custom need paint thats cheap and effective.

Spray cans from the local crazy clarks (Cheap store), some wax/grease remover and a spraycan of clear acrylic.

Clean the bottom with wax/grease remover (or Prep-sol if your going to a paint shop)

Spray whatever colour you want

Give it 2-3 coats of clearcoat...

Will cost you around $15

how would you clean the board with grease remover it's printed on to a sheet then stuck on with some proxy thrown in the middle not wood core. cabrinha 07 custom

You turn the board upside down, grab a rag, soak it in the remover, then rub it all over the board...

It's just to get all the salt/sand/silicone/**** off the bottom of the board so the paint sticks properly...

how does that clear coat you are talking about last Rhys? what does it look like after a say 2 years? does it crack and flake or whiten or does it last pretty good?

$15 worth of paint will look like sh!t in 5 mins.... You gotta at least use a 2 Pack clear man.
Prob best to add some plasticing agent like used to paint car bumpers n moto fairings to keep it flexible.

it can go foggy if you leave it wet and put it in a board bag or leave your damp wetty on top of it, and it then gets some heat and sweats it can fog....it won't chip off if you prep it well...as Rhys said degrease or prepsol even acetone...it pays to give it a light sand aswell 180 open cut paper works a treat...you can use the 180 to fine sand the edges off your colour spray...if you have taped up a design...before you clearcoat allso.

It's not going to last as long as a proper 2 pack paint will, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a compressor, spray gun, thinners and the paint alone which cost's around $35 for a litre on most stores...

I've seen a board done this way lookin good after a year... If it's gonna worry you then just re-paint it then... I don't see the point in painting the bottom of your board anyway...

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Rhys Porter said...



I don't see the point in painting the bottom of your board anyway...

what he said.....

The fish need something to look at...........

Cheers guys thanks for feed back

Check out this link www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53331&SearchTerms=surfboard


I followed Nerks method and got a pretty nice result. I found the paint kept chipping off each time i rolled it over to do the other side. Until i put the Resin sealer on. That fully sealed it all in and is now pretty solid. And looks a damn site better. If you have any artistic ability (which i don't) you can get a pretty great result. All up including buying a mini spray gun (which i can use again on my next project) it all costed about $100 I have some paint left to for any touch ups that may come.

Hope that helps

get some posca paint pens and do a really cool design,they have great colours and diff thicknesses,then if you can get to a surfboard factory ask them to give it a quick coat of pro finish, its a flat finish hard clear coat they spray on most short board, hides all imperfections,or even better most longboard factories put a gloss coat on the boards then starting with wet 400 grit-1200 grit and plenty of water wet rub back gives exc finish,i always spray my kite/surfboards on the filler and wet rub a gloss coat,paint doesnt come off.

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michel said...
a quick coat of pro finish, its a flat finish hard clear coat they spray on most short board, hides all imperfections,or even better most longboard factories put a gloss coat on the boards

Thanks for that Michel, I'm going to look into that. For what it's worth, I've done three boards over a couple of years with airbrush paint and auto shop clear coat and they all still look ok (except for my twintip which I broke in half and then repaired - anyone know paint that will hold up to that? The ends look ok!) apart from scratches from carrying under my arm and rubbing on harness, or throwing in the car on top of stuff. Two pack is a lot better though.

Here's the before and after shot of the latest project (before is on the left). Same colours as last time, but black on white, plus a metallic layer. The white area is for wax so it doesn't melt so much in the car. Deck grip will go on the back. Skull templates copied from the net, printed on cardboard, and cut out with a hobby knife.

if you have paint on the rails like in your pic getting a gloss coat is your best option,pro finish will hold up pretty good but paint will come off eventually(will hold up for quite a while tho) but resin gloss coat will prevent paint coming of your rails,they should only charge you about $10-$20 for a gloss coat.if you go that way there will be a little resin bead on the rail where they lap the resin, you can sand that down with dry paper 240 but be real gentle not to go threw to paint then wet rub with wet 400 ,big long strokes up and down board and rails with a hose constantly running water over the board then same with 1200 the more you use 1200 the shinier it will get i do it till board is semi shiny, its a great finish so smooth.(i tend to leave a tiny bit of that resin bead on the rail just to give it a bit more protection.Auto acrylic is really the best paint for boards .cheers