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Let's talk wave slashing

Created by kemp90 kemp90  > 9 months ago, 17 Jan 2019
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kemp90
kemp90

QLD

1694 posts

17 Jan 2019 8:42am
firstly, I'm definitely no wave ripping guru, but I'm really enjoying playing in the surf.

Here in central qld. We have small 1-2 ft choppy mushy waves with a on shore/ cross on wind, so less then ideal conditions.

I ride a 5,4 with thrusters.

I love hitting the lip and throwing the fins with a little Indi grab.
However if I want to stick the turn and throw a huge spray, I find myself loosing grip and sliding out, unless I stay more upright and wrap it around into a semi cut back.

so my question is should I upgrade my board and get one with a quad setup,
Or just try bigger fins for the thrusters to get more grip?

i have used a quad surfing before and didn't like it tho.

Thanks.
kemp.
DJMWA
DJMWA

WA

345 posts

17 Jan 2019 7:12am
Could be board or could be technique or could be both ??
Traditionally speaking, boards with a wide tail and full rails are difficult to stay put on rail with any speed/power. What are the rest the boards dims?
Also if you're standing too upright with too much front foot pressure you'll never hold a turn without sliding out if travelling at speed. If you want to hack a big power turn it's all back foot and low centre of gravity boyo. Think Occy and Tom Carrol
Gilly3
Gilly3

QLD

799 posts

17 Jan 2019 9:12am
Ohhh noooo,

Whats happened champ?? Too many injuries from freestyle??

You going to Elliot Heads in Feb??
kemp90
kemp90

QLD

1694 posts

17 Jan 2019 9:52am
Select to expand quote
DJMWA said..
Could be board or could be technique or could be both ??
Traditionally speaking, boards with a wide tail and full rails are difficult to stay put on rail with any speed/power. What are the rest the boards dims?
Also if you're standing too upright with too much front foot pressure you'll never hold a turn without sliding out if travelling at speed. If you want to hack a big power turn it's all back foot and low centre of gravity boyo. Think Occy and Tom Carrol


Not sure if the rest of the dimensions, it a loose board generally, with a square tail.
kemp90
kemp90

QLD

1694 posts

17 Jan 2019 9:53am
Select to expand quote
Gilly3 said..
Ohhh noooo,

Whats happened champ?? Too many injuries from freestyle??

You going to Elliot Heads in Feb??


Hahah I go through phases. Last year it was foil. Now it's surf. Next year probably paragliding haha.

Yeh I do want to go down I think. I only just saw that it was on.
DJMWA
DJMWA

WA

345 posts

17 Jan 2019 8:33am
Maybe post a few pics of your board?
Fins are a tricky one, some people love playing around with different combinations and sizes for different conditions but I personally hate it. After 25 years of surfing I have two sets of fins, one quad set and one thruster set . There's just so many nuances with fins it's out of control.
Maybe you could track down a cheap old traditional shaped surfboard and give that a whirl and see what you think (something similar to the North wam if you're unsure.) Fins are so bloody expensive nowadays that it'll probably be the same price.
smook
smook

VIC

205 posts

17 Jan 2019 12:44pm
Have experimented on size of fins Thruster using small to medium J J on my wave model 5'6" and 5'2"Shredder model /cut off nose and was happy with the small but when doing a big turn was not in control So Happy with the Mediums now But if you are over 80kg You may Need Large fins Note these boards are only 2" with fin rails Also have used Quads back 2011 they generate more speed but for me do not turn as well When doing hard bottom turn only side fin and rail are engaging The rest is out of the water
Plummet
Plummet

4862 posts

17 Jan 2019 10:07am
N +1
Adam''KiteRepair
Adam''KiteRepair

NSW

104 posts

17 Jan 2019 3:20pm
Laying rail Into a small fat wave will almost always slide out bro. Peaky A frames are what you need. Not very typical to your area. Bigger thruster may bail you out on your current set up, but who knows.

Don't right off quads because of one bad experience either. Every board in my quiver has a different fin set up, and 2 of those boards I change from thruster to quad depending on condition. 5 fin boxes are pretty sweet to have with the right board. Just so you can experiment. Changes up the feel so much and adds to the fun
quikdrawMcgraw
quikdrawMcgraw

1221 posts

17 Jan 2019 12:21pm
Go to wreck bay gki
Adam''KiteRepair
Adam''KiteRepair

NSW

104 posts

17 Jan 2019 4:04pm
Select to expand quote
quikdrawMcgraw said..
Go to wreck bay gki


Had to Google that one. Looks like a sick spot.
kemp90
kemp90

QLD

1694 posts

17 Jan 2019 4:36pm
Yeh, wreck beach is a lot of hassle. On the reef there are perfect A frames haha.

Thanks guys. Think I'll try go bigger. But fins are dam expensive, god knows why
Adam''KiteRepair
Adam''KiteRepair

NSW

104 posts

17 Jan 2019 5:45pm
Select to expand quote
kemp90 said..
Yeh, wreck beach is a lot of hassle. On the reef there are perfect A frames haha.

Thanks guys. Think I'll try go bigger. But fins are dam expensive, god knows why


Gumtree man. Alot of surfers will install as soon as they don't like what they baught.
rscaife
rscaife

WA

96 posts

17 Jan 2019 3:20pm
In case of interest: I have a 5'10" thruster (round tail) and a 5'7" quad (square tail and bamboo fins). The 'hold' (on the water/lip) of the quad is phenomenal (can massively load the rail (off-the-lip 'slash' or drawn out high-speed bottom turn) without the slightest hint of sideslip). Other differences between the two boards (e.g. the rails) presumably also affect the turn/grip, but In my opinion, in less than waist high waves, quad 'rules' for sure (more precision, control, and grip).
Kite2Surf
Kite2Surf

16 posts

18 Jan 2019 10:26pm
If it's on a surfboard, go a small centre fin and large side fins. If it's a kite company surfboard they never "feel" quite right usually too much rocker so go big fins all round. I find AM1 fins are good for drive up to the lip!
Adam''KiteRepair
Adam''KiteRepair

NSW

104 posts

19 Jan 2019 8:47am
Select to expand quote
Adam''KiteRepair said..

kemp90 said..
Yeh, wreck beach is a lot of hassle. On the reef there are perfect A frames haha.

Thanks guys. Think I'll try go bigger. But fins are dam expensive, god knows why



Gumtree man. Alot of surfers will install as soon as they don't like what they baught.


*unsell
JKimbler
JKimbler

317 posts

22 Jan 2019 8:51am
Lots of finesse works for me kiting and regular surfing. Experiment with more front foot pressure, foot position, etc. Try and really, really, pay attention to the details of what you are directing the board to do. Ease it into the turn, go full blast when you are certain you are carving and not just sliding the tail out. Just my approach, hope it makes sense!
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