Gidday, and happy new year.
Just chasing info on what to expect if I start moving my mast forward on the tracks.
Currently set all the way back.
What should I expect by moving it?
Tia
Horey

If you keep your feet in the same spot it should simply allow the foil to rise earlier/more easily. This is because your centre of gravity is further back in relation to the fulcrum point of the foil.

As above. But also you need to decrease rear foot pressure and increase front foot pressure.

Foil becomes more loose, playful and easier to turn when moved forward. Becomes more stable in the straight line tracking when moved back.

I found on my Hoverglide and Dwarfcraft set up it's horrible for a big guy. That was only a 15mm move forward from the back of the track. Try it and you'll see!
I found it becomes playful and easier to turn once you spend a lot of time riding it! I'm gybing and tacking with no problems consistently now.. Great fun the hoverglide! Yeow..

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Fly on da wall said..
I found on my Hoverglide and Dwarfcraft set up it's horrible for a big guy. That was only a 15mm move forward from the back of the track. Try it and you'll see!
I found it becomes playful and easier to turn once you spend a lot of time riding it! I'm gybing and tacking with no problems consistently now.. Great fun the hoverglide! Yeow..

What size dwarf craft are you riding? Iv got the 3.6

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kemp90 said..

Fly on da wall said..
I found on my Hoverglide and Dwarfcraft set up it's horrible for a big guy. That was only a 15mm move forward from the back of the track. Try it and you'll see!
I found it becomes playful and easier to turn once you spend a lot of time riding it! I'm gybing and tacking with no problems consistently now.. Great fun the hoverglide! Yeow..

What size dwarf craft are you riding? Iv got the 3.6

4'6 model.

I have the 4'6" too even S..t the back of the track it comes up piece of piss. I'm tall and Slim, how heavy are you fly?
What do you mean horrible?
Are you on the full mast, I'm staying on the 30'its perfect

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Fly on da wall said..
I found on my Hoverglide and Dwarfcraft set up it's horrible for a big guy. That was only a 15mm move forward from the back of the track. Try it and you'll see!
I found it becomes playful and easier to turn once you spend a lot of time riding it! I'm gybing and tacking with no problems consistently now.. Great fun the hoverglide! Yeow..

How far forward did you go? Im on number 3 now and find it heaps of fun to ride, im going to keep slowly moving it forward every session. Im 85kg on a full size mast.

I'm around 95-100 kegs on standard 35inch mast. Works best for me right back.

It's a very individual thing hey, I'm current only 70kg will shift it forward one increment for the next session.
I find the 30' mast nimble and just right for our local conditions.

I recently shifted min mast about 60mm forward. It gave me more even foot pressure, but I had to stomp on the front when going fast which I didn't like.....

So.....

I move the front strap forward
50cm. That means essentially I have moved my rear foot back while keeping the front foot in a similar place compared to the mast. What that gives me Is the best of both worlds. The ability to control high speed by standing more on the nose and even foot pressure.

I did a 10km tack across the bay yesterday in one direction. No back leg burn at all!.

I just took a screwdriver down the beach and moved it all the way to the back, then all the way to the front.

The difference was crazy but I found 7 on the dwarf craft was good for me.

Kempo are you measuring from the back of the plate....so 7 marks forward?

Also I ride strapless with my front foot near the back foot strap position and back for forward of the rear strap position but I also move my feet depending on conditions.

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horey69 said..
Kempo are you measuring from the back of the plate....so 7 marks forward?

On the dwarf craft it's number 1 to 10. 10 being the front and one at the back of the board. So 7 has the mast pointing very forward. Marked from the back of the plate by memory.

im also strapless so feet are all over the place, depending if I'm going mega upwind or mucking around in the waves.

I ride use a very very slow foil also.

If you're riding a hoverglide, make sure to replace all the bolts with good quality stuff cause what's supplied is of very low quality resulting in lot's of dramas as the hex head's have a life span of 6-12 months before they go soft and faaark up your gear when you can't remove em.. Head ache I've got that I don't ffaaaaarrrkknnnn need when all I want to do is set it up and ride! Fffaaaarrrkkk China

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Fly on da wall said..
If you're riding a hoverglide, make sure to replace all the bolts with good quality stuff cause what's supplied is of very low quality resulting in lot's of dramas as the hex head's have a life span of 6-12 months before they go soft and faaark up your gear when you can't remove em.. Head ache I've got that I don't ffaaaaarrrkknnnn need when all I want to do is set it up and ride! Fffaaaarrrkkk China

To avoid that, I take my foil fully apart once a week and give all the hardware a wash in fresh water to remove any salt then give the bolts a bath in WD40.

I would have thought the stainless bolts would be bog standard 304 or 316 stainless steel.

I found cheap hex keys have a bit of slop and that chews out the hex heads.

I now use a very good quality hex keys. Bondhus make non rusting ones that last and last and don't damage the heads. Wera make stainless steel hex keys.

I use a Bondhus T-handle for quick assembly and disassembly. It spins the screws in quickly. The Wera stainless bit is in a ratchet driver to nip everything up tight.

I bought a supply of spare screws but I haven't had to replace any in about a year. I do a full pack down after every session and get at least 4-5 sessions a week.

I bought the screws from ebay. The local shops (sailing or bolt warehouses) no longer stock the range of metric stainless screws.

I second bondhus Allen keys. Rounding off Allen heads is not generally bolt quality. It's more about technique and tool quality.

304 and 316 have a similar hardness whether ****ty low spec or good quality high spec.

If ordering new bolts for marine use order 316. This has better corrosion resistance than 304. Also use a lubricant in the threads this will protect the threads from gaulling and keep the salt water out to reduce corrosion potential.

I had my Stringfellow foil going on three years now and I only take it apart once a year. Never had an issue. Tefgel has been a great purchase and one tube will last a lifetime as you use so little. I too agree about quality stainless and good Allen keys.

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DukeSilver said..

Fly on da wall said..
If you're riding a hoverglide, make sure to replace all the bolts with good quality stuff cause what's supplied is of very low quality resulting in lot's of dramas as the hex head's have a life span of 6-12 months before they go soft and faaark up your gear when you can't remove em.. Head ache I've got that I don't ffaaaaarrrkknnnn need when all I want to do is set it up and ride! Fffaaaarrrkkk China

To avoid that, I take my foil fully apart once a week and give all the hardware a wash in fresh water to remove any salt then give the bolts a bath in WD40.

The Allen key head's actually wear then the allen key's slip! I grease the threads. If you have to drill out a bolt you'll see exactly how soft the metal is.. A drill will cut through them like they're butter. A good nut and bolt shop my mate work's at comes in handy.

Exactly like Snalberski & Plummet explained.

When you move mast forward, you move the fulcrum forward which decreases the amount of effort required on the back foot to lift the foil (cause you now have more leverage), and increases the amount of pressure required on the front foot.

if you have too much pressure on your front foot, this tells you you ought to move the mast back

This is also why they tell learners to start with the mast fully back - this makes it hard to lift the foil & ensures lots of front foot pressure.

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jamesperth said..
Exactly like Snalberski & Plummet explained.

When you move mast forward, you move the fulcrum forward which decreases the amount of effort required on the back foot to lift the foil (cause you now have more leverage), and increases the amount of pressure required on the front foot.

if you have too much pressure on your front foot, this tells you you ought to move the mast back

This is also why they tell learners to start with the mast fully back - this makes it hard to lift the foil & ensures lots of front foot pressure.

So, last week when I went from Penguin Island across Warnbro Sound to the beach with just a front strap and my rear leg was burning halfway across, that's an indication I should shift my currently totally rear-positioned mast a little bit forward? Or just get a massage on my suffering calves?

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alverstone said..

jamesperth said..
Exactly like Snalberski & Plummet explained.

When you move mast forward, you move the fulcrum forward which decreases the amount of effort required on the back foot to lift the foil (cause you now have more leverage), and increases the amount of pressure required on the front foot.

if you have too much pressure on your front foot, this tells you you ought to move the mast back

This is also why they tell learners to start with the mast fully back - this makes it hard to lift the foil & ensures lots of front foot pressure.

So, last week when I went from Penguin Island across Warnbro Sound to the beach with just a front strap and my rear leg was burning halfway across, that's an indication I should shift my currently totally rear-positioned mast a little bit forward? Or just get a massage on my suffering calves?

Or try the rear foot further back.

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alverstone said..

jamesperth said..
Exactly like Snalberski & Plummet explained.

When you move mast forward, you move the fulcrum forward which decreases the amount of effort required on the back foot to lift the foil (cause you now have more leverage), and increases the amount of pressure required on the front foot.

if you have too much pressure on your front foot, this tells you you ought to move the mast back

This is also why they tell learners to start with the mast fully back - this makes it hard to lift the foil & ensures lots of front foot pressure.

So, last week when I went from Penguin Island across Warnbro Sound to the beach with just a front strap and my rear leg was burning halfway across, that's an indication I should shift my currently totally rear-positioned mast a little bit forward? Or just get a massage on my suffering calves?

If your front foot strap is in the front holes, depending on your weight and mast position you will need far more back foot pressure. I ride strapless with feet close together and find it well balanced and just lift my front knee a bit and I'm up foiling. Then the pressure is evenly balanced. Some other's I've tried require far more back foot pressure. Badly designed foils that don't have a lift front wing need this to get and stay up..