Just wondering if like me having a quiver of surfboards for varying conditions, kiters that are right into foiling have a quiver of foils ?
I so what foils/boards/kites do you have & what conditions do you use them in please??

I can see it will be pretty easy to have a slower SUP size foil for the surf and a carbon one for flat water faster stuff.

For a short period I had three of them ..... zeeko/carver, spitfire and SUP foil. I found I enjoyed the slower carving style of the SUP foil and riding in the waves, so the SUP foil was the one I kept.

What SUP foil was it?

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Gazuki said..
What SUP foil was it?

Naish Surf Thrust... 1237cm2 wing.

Three out of five of the local foilers have the Naish now.

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bigtone667 said..
I can see it will be pretty easy to have a slower SUP size foil for the surf and a carbon one for flat water faster stuff.

.....

Exactly. Big foils are so much fun in the surf but boring in flat water. I have the Liquid Force Impulse and now looking for the right carbon free ride foil.

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I was interested what this wing was, so I looked.
https://www.naishfoils.com/thrust-surf/

Extract from this page:HRUST SURF
WAVE DOWNWIND/RACE HYDROFOIL

WARNING: DO NOT USE THE THRUST HYDROFOIL IN THE SURF. You will permanently damage your foil and can cause serious injury or death to yourself and others around you. Damage incurred as a result of abnormal use, or subjected to stress-including breaking waves-beyond the physical limits of the materials used in body or components is not covered under the warranty policy.


Huh?

I would like a quiver of foils. But alas no. i have my one homemade foil.

Unrelated but interesting clip. Just click the play button, don't bother with the other login crap.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhYXTzsA-2G/

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Pauloz said..

I was interested what this wing was, so I looked.
https://www.naishfoils.com/thrust-surf/

Extract from this page:HRUST SURF
WAVE DOWNWIND/RACE HYDROFOIL

WARNING: DO NOT USE THE THRUST HYDROFOIL IN THE SURF. You will permanently damage your foil and can cause serious injury or death to yourself and others around you. Damage incurred as a result of abnormal use, or subjected to stress-including breaking waves-beyond the physical limits of the materials used in body or components is not covered under the warranty policy.


Huh?

Makes you wonder what happened to see a warning like that posted.

Are they going to remove "Surf" from the product name and all of the Kai Lenny videos?

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emmafoils said..

bigtone667 said..
I can see it will be pretty easy to have a slower SUP size foil for the surf and a carbon one for flat water faster stuff.

.....

Exactly. Big foils are so much fun in the surf but boring in flat water. I have the Liquid Force Impulse and now looking for the right carbon free ride foil.

How do you get on with the Impulse? I'm struggling with it strapless as it produces so much lift so quickly. Especially in really light winds as I need a big kite to stay in the sky then it makes too much power on the boardstart. Also I struggle to ride it slow for surface gybes anything below Foil speed is really wobbly. I've only ridden it 3 times so maybe it will come but it seems harder than my previous, Moses Silente.

Two wings, two masts, one board so far...I could see me having a second, smaller board too. And maybe another wing :D

I'm going for a new speed wing aswell as my standard wing. And who knows what other wing's I might add to my kit..
#foilingintothefuture#game changer#builttolast#catchmeifyoucan#

I currently have a few foils I use.

My race stuff is Moses Comet board and wings on 111 mast. Moses Fluente 91 for freeriding. Slingshot Infinity 76 for light wind and surf. I also have a 101cm Moses mast and the Onda 71 which I am yet to get wet. Of course most of this is our demo gear with exception to the Comet set. My personal gear also extends to the Slingshot Ghost Whisperer 101 which rides under the North Pro Foil board. Likely going to sell this rig.

For kites I use the North Ace 14.5, 11.5 and 8.5 foil kites and am still a big fan of the North Mono for freefoiling.

DM

I have 70 and 95cm masts, surf and freeride foils, and a 120cm board. It's great gear. I have a couple of problems.

It usually takes 5-10 minutes to get used to the changed gear. Less time for the easier components (surf, 95cm), longer for the more technical to ride (freeride, 70cm). That is usually complicated by sketchy conditions (big chop or very light wind).

I can get lazy and go for the surf foil and 95cm mast. That combination is always fun and loses only a small bit of performance in real world (choppy) conditions.

The plus side is that if I put in the effort and ride the ideal gear for the conditions then the session can be awesome. Blasting along in smooth water on the freeride foil, or carving turns inside the wave zone with the short mast and surf foil.

I will add a sup foil and a suitable sup at some stage. I am also a keen sup surfer so I am excited to get into sup foiling.

I would have just bought a sup foil to start off with but I think it is good to have a faster kite foil for Perth conditions as a lot of the time it's flatwater. Plus I am about 100kg and to have a good chance at learning sup foiling I think would need the biggest wing available which might not be great for kiting.

I could definitely see having a bigger light wind board and a board for performance freeride as well

Once you get used to a short board you will never want to ride a longer one. My 155cm is great, but it feels like an aircraft carrier after riding the 120cm.

The only advantage of the bigger board is that you get a lot more time on the surface to get going, or swap feet or whatever. Most of that advantage is unnecessary if you have a big wing because you almost always start straight up onto the foil.

Swapping feet on the foil seems to be much easier on the short board. Lack of swing weight might make it a bit more stable so the board doesn't wobble around as much mid-swap. It might also be necessity. It's way easier to swap feet up on the foil or in a micro-touchdown than wobbling around on the surface.

I have kept my 155cm and have done a bit of play prone surfing it. I'll probably sell it when I have enough kit to make up a set (I actually have enough spare kit but I don't want to sell any of my foils at the moment.)

Good to know. I have sold my 150cm board and will now be riding a J-shapes 120cm exclusively. It's way more fun but I can't yet gybe it. Surface gybes were easy on the big board. Time for me to learn how to do a foiling gybe. When is the best time to switch feet; before, after, or during?

Hi Simonp,

Either before or after. Trying to balance on the foil going straight downwind is very difficult. Either start switching feet before you are too deep downwind whilst you still have some lift and stability from the kite.

As it was explained to me :

You can begin the gybe at anywhere from 90 degrees to the wind (cross wind) to 135 degrees off the wind. Take your back foot from the strap (if fitted), bring the kite to 12 o'clock and sheet in to become light on your feet and change feet in the straps. As soon as your feet are in the straps on the new tack, downloop the kite and carve the board onto the new tack at the same time.

From 135 degrees to 180 degrees off the wind, you wont have any support from the kite and will have to essentially balance on the top of the mast mid gybe. This is the most unstable position to be in on the foil and a fall is almost guaranteed.

Alternately, using the same angles, take the back foot out of the strap (if fitted), and bring the kite up to 12 o'clock whilst sheeting in for lift, carve the board and downloop the kite simultaneously and once on the new tack, switch feet.

I believe the first method is easiest. I have only managed a few gybes cleanly myself and this instruction worked for me. This instruction was for race foils and ram air kites so you probably wont get the same amount of lift if you are using the inflatables. You may also be using only one centred front strap or no straps at all. In this case, same applies but it maybe a bit easier changing feet and carving much tighter.

The racing gybes are generally done with speed as opposed to freeride gybes being done a bit slower.

Hope this helps.

DM

For freeride gybing it's easiest to simply carve to toeside and keep going. It's very easy if you're a competent toeside rider.

For swapping feet, I find the classic surfboard swap to work fine.

Bring the back foot to a point in front of the mast.
Bring front foot back and place it closer to the mast but still in front of the back foot.
Move your back foot forward.
Move the new back foot further back, drop into power a go!

You can practice the elements of these moves without committing to the foot change. Just cruise along and practice dabbing your foot, and putting more and more weight on them.

You can also practice riding in "ski stance", both feet together in front of the mast. You can move in and out of that and learn how the foil feels as it pushes back against your feet and body weight. Feet too far back and you'll get flicked off. Feet too far forward and you'll swoop down onto the water.

Practicing all this with the foil rising and falling is good. A rising foil gives you some energy to push against when you move a foot. A falling foil gives a bit more swoop to get you gliding out of a transition.

Ideally you should be able to move your feet anywhere around the zone between the front straps and the front of the mast and just hang. This is important because you're going to experience all sorts of wonky positions. It's much better to be able to deal with it and not crash just because you're out of your comfort zone.

You have the same foil and mast as I do. The J Shapes Cruzer is the funnest foil I know of. Super easy and super forgiving. You can stay up on the foil and be almost stationary.

The 70cm mast is much less forgiving. You simply have less mast to keep your foil in the water. It likes to have your weight quite forward and gliding. Once you get used to the short mast you can do really nice snappy carves, and venturing into the inside wave zone is a hoot.

The 120cm board will not be very forgiving. Once the nose goes into the water you're bulldozing your way to a stop. Moving your front foot back a little, and your back foot forward a little can help.

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Gorgo said..
For freeride gybing it's easiest to simply carve to toeside and keep going. It's very easy if you're a competent toeside rider.

For swapping feet, I find the classic surfboard swap to work fine.

Bring the back foot to a point in front of the mast.
Bring front foot back and place it closer to the mast but still in front of the back foot.
Move your back foot forward.
Move the new back foot further back, drop into power a go!

You can practice the elements of these moves without committing to the foot change. Just cruise along and practice dabbing your foot, and putting more and more weight on them.

You can also practice riding in "ski stance", both feet together in front of the mast. You can move in and out of that and learn how the foil feels as it pushes back against your feet and body weight. Feet too far back and you'll get flicked off. Feet too far forward and you'll swoop down onto the water.

Practicing all this with the foil rising and falling is good. A rising foil gives you some energy to push against when you move a foot. A falling foil gives a bit more swoop to get you gliding out of a transition.

Ideally you should be able to move your feet anywhere around the zone between the front straps and the front of the mast and just hang. This is important because you're going to experience all sorts of wonky positions. It's much better to be able to deal with it and not crash just because you're out of your comfort zone.

You have the same foil and mast as I do. The J Shapes Cruzer is the funnest foil I know of. Super easy and super forgiving. You can stay up on the foil and be almost stationary.

The 70cm mast is much less forgiving. You simply have less mast to keep your foil in the water. It likes to have your weight quite forward and gliding. Once you get used to the short mast you can do really nice snappy carves, and venturing into the inside wave zone is a hoot.

The 120cm board will not be very forgiving. Once the nose goes into the water you're bulldozing your way to a stop. Moving your front foot back a little, and your back foot forward a little can help.

Mostly agree with this.

I can now foil gybe all of the time on the freestyle and the cruzer.

Key points for me are ;
I struggle with downlooping , so I don't bother. Too much happening.
Love it on a surfboard , but foiling seems more complex and the computer says no ...

Get the kite turned first , well before turning the board especially in light wind. Pause until it's mostly done.
Park the kite into the wind at 1 ish while you turn the board to keep some pressure on the lines. If windy , not so much an issue.
If light wind be prepared to continue the down stroke for power
Often light wind in Darwin
Turn keeping the board near the surface., not high.
You are now toeside, flatten out board.
Patience

My focus is on weight on the back foot over the mast , no front pressure .... you cant swap feet with weight on the front foot and will go over the front.
Feet are best in aligned with the direction of the board , not across the board. Body looking forward. This helps with a smooth swap.
Also , the closer feet together , the better but not imperitive
And stand fairly upright.

At this,point , I give the mast a light pump with my back foot so the board rises and then do a quick foot swap.
Also , I often aim for a small chop or wave to bury the foil in while I complete this manoeuvre.

The new front to back foot should land over the mast to correct or catch the board , this is a critical balance point and given time you become very intiuitve at it.

For me , it's all about the kite turn first , board turn close to the surface , settle , small pump , and then foot swap ... control of the foil through the mast with the back foot first ... then keep control through your new back foot over the mast when it touches down on the board.

I find the 120 easier to correct in these manoeuvres than the 155, once adjusted to its length.

Great at session today on the freestyle and 12 neo. , quick and cruisy.

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eddiemorgs said..


Mostly agree with this.

I can now foil gybe all of the time on the freestyle and the cruzer.

Key points for me are ;
I struggle with downlooping , so I don't bother. Too much happening.
Love it on a surfboard , but foiling seems more complex and the computer says no ...

Get the kite turned first , well before turning the board especially in light wind. Pause until it's mostly done.
Park the kite into the wind at 1 ish while you turn the board to keep some pressure on the lines. If windy , not so much an issue.
If light wind be prepared to continue the down stroke for power
Often light wind in Darwin
Turn keeping the board near the surface., not high.
You are now toeside, flatten out board.
Patience

My focus is on weight on the back foot over the mast , no front pressure .... you cant swap feet with weight on the front foot and will go over the front.
Feet are best in aligned with the direction of the board , not across the board. Body looking forward. This helps with a smooth swap.
Also , the closer feet together , the better but not imperitive
And stand fairly upright.

At this,point , I give the mast a light pump with my back foot so the board rises and then do a quick foot swap.
Also , I often aim for a small chop or wave to bury the foil in while I complete this manoeuvre.

The new front to back foot should land over the mast to correct or catch the board , this is a critical balance point and given time you become very intiuitve at it.

For me , it's all about the kite turn first , board turn close to the surface , settle , small pump , and then foot swap ... control of the foil through the mast with the back foot first ... then keep control through your new back foot over the mast when it touches down on the board.

I find the 120 easier to correct in these manoeuvres than the 155, once adjusted to its length.

Great at session today on the freestyle and 12 neo. , quick and cruisy.

Thanks Grasshopper, you certainly make it look easy.

Select to expand quote

Key points for me are ;
I struggle with downlooping , so I don't bother.

Turn your foil first and then down loop. Separates it into two distinct actions.

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bigtone667 said..

Key points for me are ;
I struggle with downlooping , so I don't bother.

Turn your foil first and then down loop. Separates it into two distinct actions.

Start with the kite at 11, turn it to the zenith, start the turn towards it, then pull the back hand and downloop so it's just ahead of you in the carve. The little upstroke stops the kite stalling when you initiate the turn with the board.

This is why I love small kites and big wings. As Uncle Plums has said, "you can just wang the kite around the sky" the whole time to keep tension in the lines and ride around under it. More board less kite.

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high as a kite said..

eddiemorgs said..


Mostly agree with this.

I can now foil gybe all of the time on the freestyle and the cruzer.

Key points for me are ;
I struggle with downlooping , so I don't bother. Too much happening.
Love it on a surfboard , but foiling seems more complex and the computer says no ...

Get the kite turned first , well before turning the board especially in light wind. Pause until it's mostly done.
Park the kite into the wind at 1 ish while you turn the board to keep some pressure on the lines. If windy , not so much an issue.
If light wind be prepared to continue the down stroke for power
Often light wind in Darwin
Turn keeping the board near the surface., not high.
You are now toeside, flatten out board.
Patience

My focus is on weight on the back foot over the mast , no front pressure .... you cant swap feet with weight on the front foot and will go over the front.
Feet are best in aligned with the direction of the board , not across the board. Body looking forward. This helps with a smooth swap.
Also , the closer feet together , the better but not imperitive
And stand fairly upright.

At this,point , I give the mast a light pump with my back foot so the board rises and then do a quick foot swap.
Also , I often aim for a small chop or wave to bury the foil in while I complete this manoeuvre.

The new front to back foot should land over the mast to correct or catch the board , this is a critical balance point and given time you become very intiuitve at it.

For me , it's all about the kite turn first , board turn close to the surface , settle , small pump , and then foot swap ... control of the foil through the mast with the back foot first ... then keep control through your new back foot over the mast when it touches down on the board.

I find the 120 easier to correct in these manoeuvres than the 155, once adjusted to its length.

Great at session today on the freestyle and 12 neo. , quick and cruisy.

Thanks Grasshopper, you certainly make it look easy.

Nah mate. One trick pony , me.

Personally I find looping the kite to be a lot easier than trying to carve and jybe without looping. Throwing a loop in here and there seems to be the best way to correct the mis-timing between board and kite that happens a lot in my riding.

Usually the lines will be a little slack and the kite will loop tight without much pull

I have a medium Naish foil and can just glide around in a jibe and almost forget the kite.
I do however give the bar a twist so the kite is over head and slightly on it's way up wind.
Even if I stuff things up with the kite the foil just keeps gliding around then I correct the kite.