Hoping someone may have an idea. I am looking for a wide 250mm plus contour gauge but also need it for a really deep job.
Ive seen them around 200-250mm long but pins only have about 100mm travel, Id love something with about 200 travel,
Have tried ebay, google but maybe something that size is called something else.

Pretty sure the brains trust and plethora of forum ****posters on here have a wide variety of knowledge to help/ Guys on here love to help could be a standard part from state-wide bearing or bsc.com.au/ Unable to help. Your post is not descriptive enough/ please supply more information pics anything helpful for a
resolution

Hey tonz are you looking for inside micrometers???
outside micrometers??
micrometers (inside) will measure the inside of a curved object and assist to find the centre.

If you are measuring a bushing or sleeve they are epic?

they work well in cylinders of all descriptions it is however important to measure on 4 axis to ensure no ovality has occured

Ie 12 o'clock 2 o'clock 4 o'clock 8 o'clock and 10 o'clock , measurements should all remain same throughout length of cylinder..

alternatively if if you aren't trying to measure more of a bowl sort of shape same again but providing lip of said bowl is flush ( level and machined true) you can set size and rotate whilst getting measurements to the lip right around.



They are super pricey for a one off job, can be hired but it may be cheaper to make a jig up instead if it is a uniform measurement???

be careful on what metal you use to make a jig, in a pickle and to check for expansion on things like bearings and couplings it is best to utilise a welding rod , cut to size so it just fits inside bore. Once item has heated for expansion ( no more than 120 Celsius if bearing or steel, no more than 50-60 if bronze but check with manufacturer of bronze due to lead composition) use welding rod as go/no go gauge if it drops through molecular expansion has occurred now fit item quickly prior to cooling.

If I am talking hieroglyphics please provide further detail on project

I think this is the sort of thing Tonz is after. It's the size that's the problem. I use a metal version a bit different to this. It's possible to join 2 togther to get the length I want, but they wouldn't be deep enough.

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decrepit said..
I think this is the sort of thing Tonz is after. It's the size that's the problem. I use a metal version a bit different to this. It's possible to join 2 togther to get the length I want, but they wouldn't be deep enough.

your on the ball, yes longer and deeper. Appears I am heading into unknown land and possibly make something myself.

Make a jig using strips of MDF and a hot glue gun? Glue bits of timber from reference to destination...

verrry hard to make as you think you have even tension all along but then the middle is floppy, and yes I feel Tonz's pain as I also want one deeper for rail profiles on boards. 200mm travel would be a dream, I think my one has about 75 max

Watching intently for replies...

Not a lot of info ,
Could keep a room full of Sandal wearing Tonga cloaked tech heads amused?

Nothing wrong with mandles

I'm following as well and I have no idea what any of you are actually talking about !! But I do like watching a good problem solved.

Hes talking about a contour gauge like decrepit posted.
At least thats what most seem to assume he's on about as he said 'contour gauge"

I also can't find one with more than about 100mm depth and they are very expensive. Mine does 70mm or so, jussttttt enough for a windsurf board rail but a bit more would be better.
Dunno where bearings and micrometers came into it hahahaha

Make your own. There are loads of vids of different ways.

What is the budget?
I've got an idea on how to make one but I'm not sure how much it would cost yet & whether it would fall into budget .
Mark how expensive are expensive ones ?
I imagine that the bigger size ones have bigger pins for strength than my small bought ones .
or is small pins the only choice to get profiles?
I'm pretty sure I once saw a massive profile gauge on wish going cheap.
but maybe that's still not big enough

think its going to be cheaper and easier to get a fiberglass mold done and work from there, call on some friends help.

Tonz , you have created a monster .
What is it , you want to do ?
It is not clear ,
Do u want to check in a floor board , create a really fat rail , measure the inside of a curvy pipe , possibly with micrometer accuracy or some other thingy that needs that gauge to measure , that I've never seen before but somehow now want .
?

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Imax1 said..
>>>>, that I've never seen before but somehow now want .
?

I use mine for checking fin profiles, almost essential if you want it symmetric. A big one for rails would be great, but you wouldn't want the fine steel pins mine has got! I see some have thick plastic, that would be much better for the soft blank.
I started using soft solder for checking the rails, but of course it doesn't hold it's shape, so now I'm using steel wire, but a gauge would be much better. So if you find a nice big one grab it for your next board

Wow , I see what your doing .
I use a cardboard rail template to copy what I like . 3 of them tops and blend .
If your not copying your in uncharted territory, which I like .
You kids and new fandangled gear.
I still run a flip phone

Cardboard and hot glue does the trick.

can peel of threads machine shafts mill to .01 or,0001 Gonad feel like a rape victim after the cost But better that than downtime on your plant and equipment if its stopping a few million dollars worth of
production

So I have this on my ute, hate the upper tail lights and wanting to create the body shape and work out how lights will fit/blend in, hence me now thinking a fiberglass replica mold should work.

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busterwa said..
can peel of threads machine shafts mill to .01 or,0001 Gonad feel like a rape victim after the cost But better that than downtime on your plant and equipment if its stopping a few million dollars worth of
production

Say what ?

Tonz....for that one- tightarse's DIY silicone

Buy the cheap acid-cure silicone at Bunnings..... the $4 tubes. Mix a couple of tubes worth with a thimble of water and few drops of food dye. Work quick

Slap it on that canopy of yours Tonz, and in about 2mins you have a negative from it.

Practice first, too much water it goes off fast.

Oh yeah and well waxed canopy just to be safe

thanks for that, at last I have somewhere to go, apart from where she tells me

I have many questions master
Is silicone hydroscopic?
Is the water like mixing hardener?
Is the food dye just to give some colour?
could you just use coloured silicone with water ?

faaarrk dont confuse me dude

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actiomax said..
I have many questions master
Is silicone hydroscopic?
Is the water like mixing hardener?
Is the food dye just to give some colour?
could you just use coloured silicone with water ?

Silicone sealant sets by absorbing moisture from the air, like (single part) polyurethanes do also.
So adding a tiny bit of water makes it harden rapidly and a bit more stifferer
Lots of yoochoob vid's on it.

Very good cheap way of making mould but not too big as you only have a couple of mins to work.

Food dye makes it easier to see where you are spreading it. Oh yeah, wear gloves


EDIT oops I forgot it needs cornflour in it also.

sorry for ****posting life been a train wreck after having kids.

Thanks I'll try it out sometime.

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Tonz said..
So I have this on my ute, hate the upper tail lights and wanting to create the body shape and work out how lights will fit/blend in, hence me now thinking a fiberglass replica mold should work.

Mate the dead dont worry about stuff like that in your herse

hearse, is correct spelling.
Bad spellers can also finish up in there, along with deceased pets.

Here is mine



I think it has about 50mm travel.





You can see it barely does a windsurf board rail. It was hard enough to find one with this much depth! Something with more like 150mm travel in the pins would be nice so if anyone knows of something........