Far out! - a mate and I surf there all the time in winter...

And yes I know they are everywhere...
Must admit I have given it a miss on certain grey mid week days when no one else is out - even when it has looked good... just felt uncomfortable with no one else out/around to assist in the event of an incident... luckily this bloke had others around.
No need for a coffee after that - you're heart would already be pumping!!