Sounds like me when I first got back into surfing. Years surfing like mad on the esky lid (all lean and muscles), and then first comes love, then comes marriage, followed by the little tackers and the dreaded “daddy weight”.
I would recommend looking at the NSP 10’2 longboard, because its big, about half price and floats us daddies, and as a result you wont stress that you made a major investment while you flounder around in the white wash.
Did somebody say whitewash? Yup, me. Talking from experience. Because for all the late drops, back dooring pits, super sucky waves and high wave counts…….
You now need to accept those days (for now are long gone, GONE I tell ya). I found it hard at first because it was like starting all over again. First time back out in small super clean Autumn waves and I couldn’t even sit on the board, let alone paddle without falling off. Did I catch a wave that first time?
nope!

. . .
So I gave up and pushed my little girl into the waves instead. Yes she showed me up, with all her onboard dance moves
So I spent the winter learning how to paddle where to position myself on a board, how to sit on a board and how to catch white water…..a again (and to accept that 2 – 3 waves caught prone, was a good session).
You have to accept going back to being a “gumby” in public and then move on, concentrating on fitness, balance and paddle strength. I found that after a good few sessions (1- 2 every week), I was able to catch a wave again and ride it (prone) all the way in.
From here it was just a matter of figuring out what stance felt most comfortable for poping up. I started with the chicken stance popup (google it, its there) and can now popup with comfort.
The best things I find about riding a Mal is that……
1) While I cant do what I used to do, crossing up and down the board, switch stance and kind of riding the nose (still a bit of “daddy weight to go) I s much fun.
2) On smaller days when fella’s are bunny hopping (no offence) their short boards all over the place to try and catch/ stay on a wave, I’m casually catching my wave count and enjoying the ride. I still haven’t gotten back out to some of my old haunts, but I’m enjoying discovering some new ones.
Give it time and enjoy each session.