OK trying to get fit.
Wanna mountain bike and dont want to buy one twice.
I was thinking full suspension?

Looking online CRC seem to have exclusive brands - Id rather stick with something that will be more liquid and has good reviews. Where can I find the best deals for whole bikes?

Specialized seem to be well regarded. Also Giant?

might have to get a hardtail unless I can find a last years run out bargain on line. Was thinking of a 29er. I'm 6'2 and 94kgs now but should be 84

any help greatly appreciated

hilly said...
Doing the same. I got a Specialised hard tail 29er (hardrock) for $600 new that is good for most trails. You only need dual for hardcore stuff. Saying that I am looking for one now. Mate just got a Giant trance x1 that for $2300 is good value.

Get lockout for uphill and road riding. The trance comes with a moving seat post which is a nice feature.

Great fun and the Groms get into it as well. Here's my lids they are better than me after a couple of outings.

nice! Hoping to take my lids as well. yer the specialised have lockout and those front adjustable seats look the goods. does the giant have lockout? do you know where your mate got it?

Like Hilly says duel suspension is for more serious downhill stuff.

Couldn't go past a Specialized Enduro for the best all roundbike.

Hamsta said...

Just remember that cycling, especially MTB, can become addictive, wear a helmet every time you ride and unlike surfing, the trails are way way less forgiving than water when you have a lapse in concentration or become a little over-confident in your abilities.

mmm, salty...

Also look at a good second hand one.
Mountain bike depreciate worst than anything else.
If its expense bike from the start its usually been well maintained. Look at the state of the rims that's a good indication how hard it's been ridden.

My bike was originally for sale for $9500 in 2009 i bought it new for $4500 in early 2011 as it was old stock, in less than 2 years of riding it I would only get about $2000 for it now.

The frame for 2013 hasn't changed only the colours and stickers

I've upgraded it and replaced parts as they wear and it's still a better bike than anything new for less than $5000.

$2000 on a bike from a shop will just get you a bike. $2000 on a second hand one may get you a top of the range bike that's only a few years old

As you have used crc you will know how cheap replacement parts are

i wouldn't buy a second hand one unless you can find one that has barely been used because stuff wears out quick . Id definitely get full suspension its faster more fun and more comfortable they even climb better because there is heaps more rear wheel grip might take a bit more energy to climb the same hill though , i wouldnt worry about the lock ups most bikes dont bob that much anyway .
29ers are kind of like a old guy version , they roll smoothly over things but they turn and respond that much slower .

Quote [OK trying to get fit] Firstly, you have picked the right sport anyway as nearly all cyclists (road/mtb and both) shed the kgs after they get into it because it is addictive and you can easily spend hours on the bike in a session.

Quote [Wanna mountain bike and dont want to buy one twice] Like others have said, buy the best bike you can afford and if that means 2nd hand do it but with the advice from someone who knows what to look for on inspection but geometry fit and sizing is of most important.(+ for bike exchange) but also consider MTB clubs websites "for sale" section (most people who race or are nuts about MTB really look after their bikes and raced bikes are usually not clapped out but rather well maintained top notch gear)

Something to consider is the type of riding that is accessible easily within your geographical location e.g. there might be great MTB trails but they might be an hours drive from where you live. Most people don't have the luxury of riding from their doorstep to the trails so extra fitness sessions will have to take place on the road or similar.

Even if you do have this luxury here is my advice from my experience of 10 years of recreation MTB plus 5 years of racing XC/Endurance and including regular moderate North Shore and All Mountain trails. My bikes have included fully rigid 26er (1st bike, probably at the tip now) 26er full susser 100mm travel (sold it 2 months ago due to no use since mid 2010 as it feels like riding a wet paper bag compared to my other 2 MTB bikes), road bike (keeper), 29er Hardtail (80mm front), and 29er full susser (100mm).

My advice is: 29er all the way as from my experience they are a very versatile bike. What other MTB bike can you ride in a road peleton at 50kmph (and yes, a full susser) and last the distance (if needed) as well as eating up all but the gnarliest trails with ease and speed including taking some very decent drops, climbing like a mountain goat and descending on rails (and yes a hardtail)?

Yes, the pilot has a lot to do with it but most riders (if not all) who buy a 29er for wide all round use never need to sell or look at other platforms (up until this moment in time anyway). Overnight I went from getting absolutely smoked by other riders in a race to keeping up and even beating them, thats not the pilot.

Hardtail or Full Suspension: very personal choice and both are awesome and do all that I mentioned above (i have both and love them equally). Most importantly is your physical condition meaning back and core strength and the style of your riding. Nothing beats the acceleration of a 29er hardtail from a standing start even on the road against road bikes (over 50 meters and under though) and the hardtail will tackle really rough terrain but you need to actively ride it out of the saddle during this terrain otherwise you will get beat up but it will go where 26er hardtails cannot. Full susser 29ers are a bike you can ride for life (comfortable for us who have shagged backs or lack total physical conditioning) and work best (in endurance applications) by sitting in and consistently providing peddling input over all moderate terrain. 100mm 29ers will tackle terrain that suit 150mm 26ers but the 26er will know where near match the efficiency of the 29er on more smoother terrain.

Finally, 29ers are not slow around corners, you do have to ride them slightly differently to get the most out of them by leaning forward slightly to get weight over the handle bars and then they hook around but in contrast you can cut corners and chop off the apex of the corners (this is normally fairly rough terrain but 29ers eat it up hence 26ers do not cope well with this technique) which makes you hold way more speed.

Just buy a 29er full susser, they suit all people including 5 footers through to giants. I'm 178cm and 68kgs (was 85kgs)

Take this advice or disregard it, your choice but good luck.

Potty

Anyone tried one of those 'belt drive' urban bikes? Ie, no chain, rather a carbon fibre toothed belt, with no derailuers with the gears being internal to the rear hub...

Having now changed jobs I have the opportunity to ride to work... but not really interested in a road bike (been there, done that, stacked it one too many times going too fast )...

http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/bicycles/avanti/urban/inc-3/morley/wa/102151511

Am gettnig close to pulling the trigger on a giant trance X1 (29). Looks pretty good. seems better value thatn the specialized camber the special guy is trying to sell me. Is camber the equivelent in spech or the stumpjumper?
WA bike shops has the trance for 2270 but dont ship to qld. gotta look for best deal.

hilly said...
I am close too. Same bikes and the Anthem looks good too. Giant gives you good bang for your buck.

Camber suspension is "better" the Specialized guys say.

Mate has the Trance X1 and is happy with it.

trigger pulled. trance x1. paid 2400. specialised equivelent was heaps more and I had my heart set on the trance. another shop would sell for 2235 but didn't have stock and I didnt want to wait untill week 15 or 16 when they come in (april). didn't even test ride and the bike shop guys forgot to set up the seat. I got it home and put it on max height and went for a ride and it's still an inch or more too low with sneakers on. should have gone bigger. might take back and see if they'll swap. Really liked it on the ride though. Rolls real nice with those big wheels (29) and took it over some jumps at the BMX track, jumped some kerbs and did some bunny hops etc. feels really sporty even with the big wheels. Rode a fair way on the road and managed to keep a good clip. I like the idea of a bit extra travel but still trail oriented. I think I will be very happy. The shock on climb is fairly stiff and I think I would leave it there even if there was a lockout as when I was riding on the road it was still nice to have a bit of comfort (but with no bob that I could see)

lots of money to spend on a pushy IMHO but if it gets me into it then it's a good investment health wise.

Sick bike Hilly.
Here's my ride.





It's always 6 foot and offshore in The Pines

Greenroom said...
It's always 6 foot and offshore in The Pines

impressive air GR

here's my weapon

I just joined the club
I saw on a MTB forum that reflectors and bell are a sign of a Noob Dork
Specialized Camber 29 2013 model

Twimby said...
I just joined the club
I saw on a MTB forum that reflectors and bell are a sign of a Noob Dork
Specialized Camber 29 2013 model

Sweet

I will put money on the bag hitting the back wheel if I rode it

The 'string' bike ... took this photo at the DSM factory in the Netherlands.

Look, as far as I am concerned I need the seat high for efficient climbing. With a cross country and MTB orienteering background, it would suck to not be able to go up hills at a reasonable clip. The bike is an XL 26r, go figure.

I have no trouble descending or taking jumps as fast as many other dudes with the seat where it is - for my age category I am in the top quartile on Strava for Kamakazi and Muffin Tops.

Is 'freeballing' for people who want more sag?