after getting nuked in the mornings surfing one of my home points the lure of a large swell and the right direction the call was to check a spot that only breaks every 15th blue moon

with dead cows in the water n half submerged logs and a pack of curious bronze whalers combined with a horendous wirlpooling sweep and relentless white water closeout foamball washing machine waves endlessly making the session near unbearable

in between all that i scored a few little rare jems and a few new dings on my board

the paddle out and in is a bit sketchy as you have to line up a small key hole gap in the rocks and ride thru the 1m gap up a 20m channel then scramble up the razor sharp rocks and then squeeze out the urchin spines for the next 2weeks or so