garymalmgren forum posts in last 60 days

I was going to title it, New Block on the Kid.
But thought that was a little too smart.

gary

I love seeing blokes making stuff.
Here is one who reinvented the boat block.
I hope it pays off for him.
gary

Looks like you are close to correct Quix.

Japan has specific national marine regulations for heavy traffic areas. These differ from international regs.
I posted that this flag was ,I am towing a submerged object. That's what it means in my area.
But in heavy traffic areas it is like an escort vehicle for wide loads on the road.
I actually means. There is a big bugger behind me and he has the right of way, no matter what you think.
I didn't know that and now I do.gary

Close Planter.
I am towing a submerged object.
Around here that is usually aquaculture gear like fish breeding frames, oyster or scallop farms.

Failed that one in my license. That;s why I know now.

Here in Japan signal flags are the norm.
What is this one?

Did she miss the entrance?

Thanks Maddy.
Here is a youtube of Pieter's full tillerpilot installation.
He has developed it to handle much more than I need and do a lot more than the Raymarine or Simrad can do.
gary

This one looked like it was beyond repair.
But a lot of patience got it working again.
gary

A Sarca Excel 16 kg anchor is $650 .
Not everyone can afford that,
gary

Hi BGR
RE: Is 5m of chain and 35m of rope enough to anchor overnight in 3-8m of water? I feel maybe I should be using more chain.
You have given your anchoring set up.
My current setup is:
12kg Danforth Anchor
5m of 8mm chain
35m of 12mm nylon rope to the boat
Also, 20m of 6mm chain doing nothing. never used.
I don't want to confuse the issue but there are other things to consider when anchoring (overnight).
1 What is the forecasted wind? Will it build or shift during the night?
2, What is the seabed? The makeup of the seabed will effect the original anchor set and any reset if the wind shifts and the anchor swivels or pulls out.
3 What are the geological features of where you are anchoring? Is it a sheltered estuary, a cove with surrounding hills or off an island or beach? Will the anchorage give you good shelter from the wind?

As for you set up, 5 meters of 8 mm chain is nothing. The more chain that you can lay on the (sound) seabed the better.
I would shackle on the 20 meters of 6 mm chain and the nylon rode to that. Have all you anchoring kit ready to go.

RE:I lower and raise the anchor by hand, so 5m of chain isn't difficult to handle.
A good bow roller is essential to raising the anchor by hand. Sit, brace your legs either side of the chain and haul ergonomically.
Some people spend a lot of time and money at a gym and some raise their anchor by hand.

RE: 12kg Danforth Anchor
The Danforth will do the job in sand and mud. Not reliable in rocky seabed or coral or grass. Anchors are expensive. However, I would look out for a fisherman's yacht anchor. Others might disagree, but, I like them and they are probably the only anchor that you will pick up cheaply. The fisherman's and the Danforth will give you a choice of anchors for a variety of seabeds.
I would probably leave the fisherman at home when day sailing and stow it aboard when doing an overnighter.

Hope this helps,
gary

In light winds it is twin headsails for me.
gary

Hi Mobbos.
I come at this parallel, but a bit differently from you.
I have two tablets with Navionics and C Maps plus paper charts.
The most expensive of these are definitely charts.
If you want to upgrade your nav system, again charts are the most expensive way to go.
Navionics is a one time purchase that can be downloaded onto two devices. This gives you redundancy if one devise fails.
The upgrades that they charge for are not absolutely necessary, but you can opt for them every few years as an option.
Nobody that I know upgrades their charts every few years, because of the cost.
As for safety.
Old charts scanned and stitched together would be the worst choice.
Old charts do not show new features. I am using charts that have so many things missing it is a joke.
However, I find many features in even old paper charts useful
For coastal sailing Navionics with upgraded every two years or so would be the safest way to go.
Navionics without the upgrades would still be safer than old charts.
My C Map has not been upgraded for almost 10 years and I bought my Navionics last year (old tablet left in the cockpit in the rain and smart phone died). I can't really see any difference between the 10 year old system and the new system, so am not so fussed about upgrading and paying for that service.


Any memory map CD will be old and you would still have to pay for it.
I wonder how much you would actually save, going for an old MM CD instead of a new Navionics install.

Lastly, as you mentioned the 2.6 star rating in the App store probably relates to pricing.
Buyers want cheap, but then moan when the upgrades come at a cost.

We all have choices

gary

RE: Retirement sailing -what worked for you?

Well I haven't retired yet.
72 last year and from February I will be officially there.
But that won't stop me from giving advise.

You have a 33 foot boat that you own and know.
You are in Australia. one of the largest and most varied cruising grounds in the world.
You speak the language and don't have any visa hassles.
If anything goes wrong, it is not an international flight to go "home".
If the wife wants to step off for family or other business she can, easily.
If you want a friend to join you for any leg, they can easily. Well, not really if you are in the Kimberlys.
If you need work done, you can sus out the location , yard and staff easily.
You will not be dealing with yard managers in a foreign language. Quotes? What are the?
If you need any supplies , you are familiar with what is in the super.
You can be pretty well assured of the quality of the fuel.
There are plenty of remote (I mean really remote) places to go.
There are plenty of almost urban places to go. Brisbane River comes to mind.
There are lots of like minded sailors to link up with.

45 years ago, I bought a boat in Perth. Sailed up the west coast and headed out of Australia as fast as I could.
Yes I had my adventures . The east coast of Kalimantan being one of them.
However, I realize too late that I had missed the amazing sailing that Australia has to offer.

So my advise is , sail Australia in the boat that you have.
Sprint off to the Aegean or Caribbean for a charter and then whip back home.

gary

RE: Reefing Downwind
I don't like reefing downwind.
With the sails pressed against the shrouds or spreaders there is too much resistance to dropping the sail to the reef points.
You would have to go to the mast and physically pull the main down.

I usually point up or heave to as a matter of safety and ease on the rigging.
Some boats can't be reefed downwind.
gary

Not the genny,

I admit to being clueless on rules.
I would like some clarity too, Mutton.
Is this a rule for the S to H only?
Did they pole out a genoa?

gary