I have a similar problem where I sail. I think you have to be aware of it and sail accordingly. I look forward and try to spot any waves forming that would put me over the top. The distance between waves is such that you can't time it to use a wave to get around. If you start to gybe right on the base of a wave, by the time you are half-way around you are going over the waterfall on the next one. All you can do is to watch the conditions and get ready with bent knees and be prepared for the board to really slow down as the nose dips. I really don't think going flat out is going to end well.
