This is a continuation of this thread in wave sailing that im now doing in the WA section
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Wave-sailing/Whats-Mike-up-to-now?page=1


The head on my carbon boom had become quite wobbly, not a major issue but just annoying. This is my first attempt at working on a boom. I didnt take pics of all steps as I was busy at times and didnt want to remove my rubber gloves, for get wet resin on my phone or water on my phone.
I bought a replacement head, measured the internal diameter. Then removed the old head an did some more measuring the internal head where it connects to the boom had worn about one mm on both of the internal outer edges. And the carbon had worn .5mm inside and 1.75mm on the outside. I Forgot to take pics of the worn carbon.



I cut enough carbon from these scraps to wrap the entire width twice eg 2 layers then some 2cm wide stips to wrap the edges to make another 4 layers. I thought about Kevlar but I didn't have any and it would have been a b1tch to sand level



I then tightly wrapped around some electrical tape and used a pin to prick it all over the electrical tape a few hundred times this allowed the excess resin to weep out. I wiped the exess resin off after about 20 mins, just to make tape removal easier.





fnck me seabreeze never plays nice with my Android mobile this carbon pic was supposed to load up under the third paragraph.

When dry I removed the tape measured the diameter it was a fraction oversized and was a bit bumpy.

I needed to sand the new carbon even and cylindrical, so I bought some 40mm plastic pipe with 38mm internal diameter cut it the width of boom head connection and cut out a 10mm strip.

I the wrapped 40 grit sandpaper over the area, squeezed over the pipe, bent edges of sandpaper back over the pipe, sqeezed it as firmly as I could then taped it all together. I then kep rotating this over the boom as the diameter decreased I kept re taping up th pipe. I did the same with some 100 graded wet and dry paper.

Took it off hosed it down measured, all good. On my next days off I'll put on the new boom head.

Ha I did the same thing today. C'ept your efforts make me look like captain dodgy.
I just used a bike tube (poorly) then had to vice the head so the bolts would poke through enough to reach the thread.
Shame for me

Love the plastic pipe as a sanding pad, wish I'd thought of that when I did mine.

My carbon boom head got sloppy real quick from new ,dont think carbon has much resistance to abrasion. Did a similar repair to yours about 18 months ago ,just two layers of 4oz wetted out and wrapped tightly in tape then a light sand .Still tight with two seasons of use.

Thanks Decrepit.
I've put the head back on and all good. But after reading Foghorns post and talking to people at the beach I'm seriously thinking of pulling it apart and putting on a couple of thin layers of just glass. I did some Google research on which would wear the least carbon or glass but I didn't find much info

From playing around with fins, I'm fairy confident glass is more abrasive resistant. But a lot is also down to the resin, if the under lying resin. If you have an old boom that's just sloppy, polyester and glass would probably wear better still. But I wouldn't try polyester on top of recently set epoxy unless it's been well heat cured for a few days.

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decrepit said..
From playing around with fins, I'm fairy confident glass is more abrasive resistant. But a lot is also down to the resin, if the under lying resin. If you have an old boom that's just sloppy, polyester and glass would probably wear better still. But I wouldn't try polyester on top of recently set epoxy unless it's been well heat cured for a few days.

Yep I learnt that lesson years ago, the epoxy never set.

What's mike up to now...... Just did a photo shoot for police infringement service. not happy far king revenue raising scam.
Any way back to the boom.
Cut some 4oz glass
Wet it out on plastic.
Wrapped it around boom.
Put electrical tape on and pin pricked it, now left to dry.

It was a lot quicker second time around Inc head removal.













They don't save lives it's just another form of stealing from the general population.

Select to expand quote

R1DER said..
This is a continuation of this thread in wave sailing that im now doing in the WA section
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Wave-sailing/Whats-Mike-up-to-now?page=1


The head on my carbon boom had become quite wobbly, not a major issue but just annoying. This is my first attempt at working on a boom. I didnt take pics of all steps as I was busy at times and didnt want to remove my rubber gloves, for get wet resin on my phone or water on my phone.
I bought a replacement head, measured the internal diameter. Then removed the old head an did some more measuring the internal head where it connects to the boom had worn about one mm on both of the internal outer edges. And the carbon had worn .5mm inside and 1.75mm on the outside. I Forgot to take pics of the worn carbon.



I cut enough carbon from these scraps to wrap the entire width twice eg 2 layers then some 2cm wide stips to wrap the edges to make another 4 layers. I thought about Kevlar but I didn't have any and it would have been a b1tch to sand level



I then tightly wrapped around some electrical tape and used a pin to prick it all over the electrical tape a few hundred times this allowed the excess resin to weep out. I wiped the exess resin off after about 20 mins, just to make tape removal easier.





fnck me seabreeze never plays nice with my Android mobile this carbon pic was supposed to load up under the third paragraph.

I used duct tape much wider and gives a nicer finish, the trick I use is to start the tape back off the area abit then twist it so the sticky side is facing up and then wrap the area until a few centimeters past then re twist the tape so the sticky side is down which allows it to obviously stick lol.
When cured it comes off cleanly with no glue residue from the tape on the area.

I thought about duct tape but the stuff I have has a mesh of threads in it and the tape doesn't stretch whereas the electrical tape can be stretched on which then has a compression effect over the whole area. The pin holes allow a lot of resin to exit the matrix giving a good glass to resin ratio.

I took the tape off today and the glass didn't need any sanding except for a little bit at the side ridges. I put the head back on and a perfect fit. Didn't take any pics as it all looks like the pics in my first attempt.

Started a single to quad conversion this morning on a JP FSW making a great board even better.
Makred out where boxes are to go. Cut some high density supporting blocks. If I get time this afternoon ill cut into the board.

I routed some slot hole down through to the deck, I will resin in the small bits of corecell in the pic the blocks I cut out will sit on these. I like to make sure the blocks that hold the fin boxes are tied into the deck.
Im reall interested in the blue sandwich material they have used looks like Extruded styrofoam to me not PVC, ill get a better look when I cut out the holes for the blocks.

So those slots you've cut are just for extra bonding strength of the core-cell through the board?
Once you've resined those in you will router the fin box holes through that material also?

Another pic of what I glue inside the board but it's upside down the deck is the top curve of pvc and bottom of block is bottom of board. Does this make sense?

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R1DER said..

When dry I removed the tape measured the diameter it was a fraction oversized and was a bit bumpy.

Ahem...

Jeez
and I thought I did dodgy repairs.

Call it a shim, not Coke can- then its engineering.....

1964 - "Things go better with Coke"
1972 - "It's the real thing"
1977 - "Coke adds life"
1980 - "Smile"
1982 - "Coke is it!"
1989 - "You Can't Beat the Feeling"
1993 - "Always Coca-Cola"
2000 - "Enjoy"
2001 - "Life tastes good"
2004 - "Real"
2005 - "As it should be"
2007 - "The Coke side of life"
2008 - "Real taste. Uplifting refreshment"
2010 - "Open Happiness"
2011 - "Share A Coke"

Pic of the supports resined in place.

As I didn't know the construction of this board. I didn't just router it out in one go. I took out a layer at a time using a box knife to cut though outer skin which seems to be paint wood glass then cut through XPS glass then routed out EPS foam core.

Glueing in blocks with resin and filler mixed together.

Not worth vac bagging when I have some high tech materials to weigh down.

Sheet of plastic between the wood and d'cell blocks to avoid it sticking?

You're worried now aren't u................

Ha ha nope! expand the pic and look closely, you'll see the plastic.

Mike, if inclined could one glue the 2 x left blocks and 2 x right blocks as one whole block each? Ie 2 tetris shaped blocks. 1 for left fins and and 1 for right fins?

^^^ Yeah but I am betting he did it as thick PVC foam is expensive..... cutting two z shaped tetris blocks would mean offcuts (wastage)
BTW its hard to get without buying huge sheets, took me years of begging each time I needed some.... now I have a fair bit so if you need some I am selling bits for mast tracks and fin boxes.....