I had another bargain bin old board arrive,this time from...interstate.

I seem to gel better with the old narrow slalom boards from the late 90's / early 2k's , which are all unwanted and out of fashion now.

To me, these worthless boards at only 52cm wide, are speed boards in disguise.

And the little extra in volume is actually a plus for the very shallow water at Primbee.

The side-stripe fashion went right through the industry back then.

Yeehaa!! Cant knock the ol boards. Had an ol Bic Veloce 289 120litre thing out a few months ago. Cranked it up around 30kts. Keeping up with the new shapes. Was funny to have that loooong pointy nose way out in front. But great fun regardless. Best part was rippin in the shallows 30cm flexfin. My usual fins are 50cm+.

Nothing wrong with the old boards, while my manta's are in repair been sailing an old 1998 Drops 8'10" (270cm) so far it's done 37.5 2 sec and rekon it will hit 40 on the right day, board is 53cm wide classic pointy nose and it actually gybes like a dream.

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Aus501 Boz said..
Nothing wrong with the old boards, while my manta's are in repair been sailing an old 1998 Drops 8'10" (270cm) so far it's done 37.5 2 sec and rekon it will hit 40 on the right day, board is 53cm wide classic pointy nose and it actually gybes like a dream.

That's a nice looking board, awesome!

I've only sailed my local flat water spot Primbee, twice.

So I was just putting a budget kit together that hopefully isn't embarrassingly slow

The shop that I got the white board from said it was clocked at 36knots way back in about 2003. It was hanging in the roof of the shop since then.

Hi Getsum, here is my old girl, still quick, 55 wide, see you at Primbee

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Bazz2231 said..





Hi Getsum, here is my old girl, still quick, 55 wide, see you at Primbee

Baz she still looks in mint condition!!! Just like when we sailed at Kurnell, 20 years ago.

Westerly forecast for this Sunday mate.

Many of the boards from that era are very, very similar in shape on the back half to many modern larger speed boards. The biggest difference is the position of the mast track and an extra 30-40cm of nose hanging out the front. When I get on one from that era, (I still have a couple ) the biggest difference is to loooooong nose, waaaay out in front of the mast! . One local sailor (Mal F) just cut the nose off one! Works OK!

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sailquik said..
Many of the boards from that era are very, very similar in shape on the back half to many modern larger speed boards. The biggest difference is the position of the mast track and an extra 30-40cm of nose hanging out the front. When I get on one from that era, (I still have a couple ) the biggest difference is to loooooong nose, waaaay out in front of the mast! . One local sailor (Mal F) just cut the nose off one! Works OK!

The only time the long nose gets to be a problem is in real big gusts when it blows out of control. Whack it off and they are way nicer. I've done several. They often have 850+mm of flat in the tail so they work well as speed boards.

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Te Hau said..

sailquik said..
Many of the boards from that era are very, very similar in shape on the back half to many modern larger speed boards. The biggest difference is the position of the mast track and an extra 30-40cm of nose hanging out the front. When I get on one from that era, (I still have a couple ) the biggest difference is to loooooong nose, waaaay out in front of the mast! . One local sailor (Mal F) just cut the nose off one! Works OK!

The only time the long nose gets to be a problem is in real big gusts when it blows out of control. Whack it off and they are way nicer. I've done several. They often have 850+mm of flat in the tail so they work well as speed boards.

They also fit in the ute/van/hatch/trailer better

Thanks guys I will keep all that advice in mind.


But for now, I might ride them a few times and see how they go.

I had a wiz around on the mrs, Sputnik 265, the other day, that seemed to go ok.

For an average uphauler Wally like me, I probably wouldn't even notice the extra length they have.

Is that blade in backwards?????? Doesn't look quite right to me

it's just a mock up, for the pic

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decrepit said..
Is that blade in backwards?????? Doesn't look quite right to me

Blade looks right to me. Although my recipro lost its foot in the first few weeks of use and is much dirtier.

What gives the best / neatest cut , jig saw ?

Blade can usually go either way in recipro saw.
Jig saw, Angle grinder with 1mm cut off disc. Recipro a bit agricultural n hard to follow a marked line. Blade wobbles around.Its more for demolition work where neatness doesnt matter.

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olskool said..
Blade can usually go either way in recipro saw.
Jig saw, Angle grinder with 1mm cut off disc. Recipro a bit agricultural n hard to follow a marked line. Blade wobbles around.Its more for demolition work where neatness doesnt matter.

Thanks for that I haven't got a jig saw but I've got a angle grinder and cut off disc, see how we go, I will ride them first before cutting anything.

hopefully this Sunday

NO! Sorry, I am bing taken out of context!!!!

Dont cut up those old classics!

At least not unless you crash and bust them.

no worries

im going to sail them just as they are

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getsum said..
What gives the best / neatest cut , jig saw ?

Those vibrating Home Reno cutters are the go (use the semi circular blade). You can get the angled cut you will need in order to shape the new nose thickness profile. Very tidy.

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Te Hau said..

getsum said..
What gives the best / neatest cut , jig saw ?

Those vibrating Home Reno cutters are the go (use the semi circular blade). You can get the angled cut you will need in order to shape the new nose thickness profile. Very tidy.

^^^
Thanks good idea

On the big 277, I've started marking out a few nose curves in pencil to see how it might look.

It could be fun to chop and have it as my project / experimental board.

I might also mod the rocker line to give it slightly more Vee.

But I will ride it a few times first as it may go really well as it is.


The Limited Edition Thommen / Dunkerbeck board is not getting the chop.

I've been all over the underside of it with the straight edge, and looking at it very closely.

I reckon that thing is gunna fly.

We got ourselves a basic gps watch so hopefully this weekend we can do some testing.


My Mrs has the vintage Sputnik 265, that we were given for free.

Flat water speed sailing in the gps era, is totally new to us.

Nice

have you found KA72.com? You can upload your gps file and get some analysis of your session on there, speeds, distance, tracks etc, can use any gps on that site. There's a group on KA72 for Primbee you could join too, a few of the primbee crew are on that, a good way to see what speeds are being achieved without having to go the full monty joining the gpstc.com

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Dezza said..
Nice

have you found KA72.com? You can upload your gps file and get some analysis of your session on there, speeds, distance, tracks etc, can use any gps on that site. There's a group on KA72 for Primbee you could join too, a few of the primbee crew are on that, a good way to see what speeds are being achieved without having to go the full monty joining the gpstc.com

Hi Dezza
That sounds great thank you.

We just got ourselves a Suunto Ambit3 run, so just in the process of trying to work that all out. LOL

I hope that was a good choice?

No hadn't seen it but, We will check out that KA72 for sure.

What's the weather doing this weekend?

Cheers
D&G

Nice choice! the sunnto ambit 3 is great, and in white = perfect. Once you've got movescount downloaded there are apps you can copy to your watch with the windsurf gps data logging setup, if you search for windsurf speedsailing in apps you should find one that will get you started. Then once a session is recorded you can sync the watch data either with cable to computer or Bluetooth to movescount on phone. It will give you a gpx data download file you can then upload to KA72. Sounds complex but after a few goes it's quick to do

Primbee still has some flatwater water on the edge in a southerly if that comes , or you might like the bump and jump out in middle on wave gear. Some of the guys sail Sanctuary Point in a southerly too, but primbee worth checking out. Fingers crossed the wind comes

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Dezza said..
Nice choice! the sunnto ambit 3 is great, and in white = perfect. Once you've got movescount downloaded there are apps you can copy to your watch with the windsurf gps data logging setup, if you search for windsurf speedsailing in apps you should find one that will get you started. Then once a session is recorded you can sync the watch data either with cable to computer or Bluetooth to movescount on phone. It will give you a gpx data download file you can then upload to KA72. Sounds complex but after a few goes it's quick to do

Primbee still has some flatwater water on the edge in a southerly if that comes , or you might like the bump and jump out in middle on wave gear. Some of the guys sail Sanctuary Point in a southerly too, but primbee worth checking out. Fingers crossed the wind comes

Dezza
thanks so much we will have a look for a few apps now.

The forecast for tomorrow and Sunday are looking good for Primbee.

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getsum said..
Thanks good idea

On the big 277, I've started marking out a few nose curves in pencil to see how it might look.

It could be fun to chop and have it as my project / experimental board


The Limited Edition Thommen / Dunkerbeck board is not getting the chop.

I've been all over the underside of it with the straight edge, and looking at it very closely.

I reckon that thing is gunna fly.

Word of warning.

Cutting back the nose reduces the aerodynamic lift of the board. This coupled with the lack of chop at places like Primbee, coupled with the extra lift at the tail of the due to the extra speed due to the flat water will result in the board trim being too flat.

Made this mistake once. Took the nose off a board prior to a trip to Sandy Point. Completely stuffed up the trim with the spay coming out by the mast foot and hitting the wall at 37.5, whereas prior to the chop it would release behind the front foot and I would go 3 knots faster in less wind and rougher water.

I had to move the straps back but then the mast track was too far forward so had to move that back as well. In hindsight some cutouts and a less aggressive nose chop would have been easier.

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yoyo said..

getsum said..
Thanks good idea

On the big 277, I've started marking out a few nose curves in pencil to see how it might look.

It could be fun to chop and have it as my project / experimental board


The Limited Edition Thommen / Dunkerbeck board is not getting the chop.

I've been all over the underside of it with the straight edge, and looking at it very closely.

I reckon that thing is gunna fly.

Word of warning.

Cutting back the nose reduces the aerodynamic lift of the board. This coupled with the lack of chop at places like Primbee, coupled with the extra lift at the tail of the due to the extra speed due to the flat water will result in the board trim being too flat.

Made this mistake once. Took the nose off a board prior to a trip to Sandy Point. Completely stuffed up the trim with the spay coming out by the mast foot and hitting the wall at 37.5, whereas prior to the chop it would release behind the front foot and I would go 3 knots faster in less wind and rougher water.

I had to move the straps back but then the mast track was too far forward so had to move that back as well. In hindsight some cutouts and a less aggressive nose chop would have been easier.

Thanks
Some good advice right there!

I like the cutout idea, the seller told me it never turned well, but was quick , so I've been looking at the Vee.

Cut outs could be a much better solution to that.

I believe the board has done 36+ knots in it's current configuration.

Cheers

Slowie did a neat trick on his Hammer board pre his mistral days.

Shallow (~1cm) cutout at about 45 degrees to the centreline. That way you only need 2 cuts per side, plus you can use the bottom of the board you just cut out so you only need to glass rail and inside of the cut out. Plus doesn't really change the volume and once you up to speed the cutout are clear of the water. Way simpler that changing strap inserts and mast track.

Here's my old JP FSW 2000 I took the nose off. It is still a really sweet board to ride in really choppy conditions and gets some decent speeds www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/My-latest-board-refurbs?page=1

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yoyo said..
Slowie did a neat trick on his Hammer board pre his mistral days.

Shallow (~1cm) cutout at about 45 degrees to the centreline. That way you only need 2 cuts per side, plus you can use the bottom of the board you just cut out so you only need to glass rail and inside of the cut out. Plus doesn't really change the volume and once you up to speed the cutout are clear of the water. Way simpler that changing strap inserts and mast track.

Interesting yoyo cheers!

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sausage said..
Here's my old JP FSW 2000 I took the nose off. It is still a really sweet board to ride in really choppy conditions and gets some decent speeds www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/My-latest-board-refurbs?page=1

^^^
Great work it looks fantastic, great job, thanks for that info !

Lots of good ideas here