Must get old rather quickly

I reckon more satisfying when the wave needs to be perfect, your timing absolutely spot on to get the vertical section, keep speed up through the break which can be hard, board and sail angle perfect ........ all contribute to making your own height.
Then having to get it all perfectly right to control descent so as to not drop like a stone. Its a magic feeling to get right.
Alternative: edge hard - pop - float down. Repeat ad nauseum. We're jealous of the height, but for total picture I'm not feelin it.