Okay this 2012 iS97 wood has been one of my favourite boards but it has been through the wars;
-Turned up new with forklift prong straight through the deck - repaired
-Snapped in two hitting a fish on only it's 6th session - repaired gpsteamchallenge.com.au/sailor_session/show?date=2012-01-09&team=20
-Catapult split to nose - repaired
-hole in deck when extension punched through after uni tendon snapped - repaired
-significant delamination directly under mast track (600mm dia approx section affected) -repaired (see below)

Anyway as I mentioned, this board does everything well in the open ocean so I thought I'd give the Firiebob unconventional method for a delam repair a go - in hindsight this method really not suitable for a big delam but it has worked (Caveat: i haven't tested on the water as yet but i'm confident). Thought I'd share as I find these threads really informative. Appreciate some more expert feedback on doing it this way.

METHOD: Firiebob's CrissCross delam repair
REPAIR: SAUSAGE
LEVEL: NOVICE

Sanded back area and marked out criss cross cut marks




Cut with Dremel. EPS in middle was just too damaged so cut a circular block out of the nose section I took off my 2001 JP FSW (pity they don't make boards like that one anymore). Shaped circular block to ensure original concave/vee retained and cleaned out all loose foam .




Mixed epoxy and Qcell and injected. weighted down with some packing styrofoam and weights (realised just in time that heat from Exothermic reaction in some parts was not dissipating too well due to the foam, but didn't appear to have melted core)
Footnote: unfortunately read a great tip on another thread that the Sika Tech Grip is great for gluing EPS together and in hindsight could have used it in lieu of epoxy/qcell mix as glue filler - in fact there was a soft spot (at 5 o'clock in below photo) that was beyond my repair area so I just injected the Tech Grip and it worked perfectly - it foams up so it fills any voids.


2 layers of 4oz glass over the area (not vacuumed bagged but it was thoroughly wetted out and rolled into deck)


faired with septone filler putty and sanded



Spray putty and sanded



Painted with cheap SCA primer filler from Super Cheap Auto , sanded with orbital and 380grit (wasn't overly concerned with aesthetics!)

Love your work , very interesting .
You lost me with the injected resin part,
Please explain,
Did you peel back each piece as far as you dare and squirt resin under ? Then weights on top ?

Looks great Snags, well done!! The old girl lives another day.

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Imax1 said..
Love your work , very interesting .
You lost me with the injected resin part,
Please explain,
Did you peel back each piece as far as you dare and squirt resin under ? Then weights on top ?

IMAX,
that was the intent to peel back each quadrant but because I used the block in the middle I just injected epoxy filler with syringe through drill holes

Snagz is there anything your not Brilliant at?

Nice work

Looks good. Hope it holds up for you. I have a board or two with this many repairs. Open water blasting really punishes them, but when you have a good one you really want to keep it going as long as possible.

looks good, ready to hit the water highway again .

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hardie said..
Snagz is there anything your not Brilliant at?

Yes Hardie, just ask my wife

Great job Saugage the foaming glue you used, is that the same as Gorilla glue? (This also foams, I tested and it seems to glue polystyrene ok).

ps: it happens, don't be embarrassed

Great dodgy repair Sausage.

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Stretchy said..
Great job Saugage the foaming glue you used, is that the same as Gorilla glue? (This also foams, I tested and it seems to glue polystyrene ok).

ps: it happens, don't be embarrassed

Not sure if the gorilla glue is the same but here's a link to the sika tech grip
diy.sikaretail.com.au/products/adhesives/glues/sikabond-techgrip/