Can anyone suggest a DIY product to re-grip a board deck with?
Ive tried the gel coat sugar thing in the past but did not have much success.
Step treads work but look awful.
Is there anyone in the Sydney area still doing this?
John Hall?
I bought some re-deck-it or whatever its called from WSnS ages ago. It was easy to use.
Lately I used some acrylic dust from Whitworths with an acrylic clear coat (paint). I rolled it on using a small foam roller, which is what the re-deck-it it uses. I bought the acrylic clear paint from Bunnings.
I found that spray can re deck didnt work too well, lasted about a month.
I have sugar coated a deck using resin and it worked well, this is going strong about 4 years later.
I beleive the best & easist way to do the job is using caster sugar and a can of clear coat (ie. the stuff they spray on cars, avail. at auto accessory stores)
Give the board a really good clean, mask of the area you dont want to cover. Spray on the clear coat then sprinkle on the sugar, use a siv for even distribution.
Alternatively if you have a spray gun you can mix the clear coat and abrasive dust and spray on. I have some dust, genuine stuff from the Starboard, happy to give you a cup if you want to go down that route.
I got some non-slip tape from a fibreglass products shop. Practically, it worked pretty good, looks are in the eye of the beholder I guess.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/The-Triple-7-Deck-Grip-Tutorial/
All questions answered.
Select to expand quotepowersloshin said..
Doesn't the clear paint give a yellowish tint ?
Most paints are UV stable 2 pack clear epoxy and castor sugar works a treat but you must leave it a couple of days before washing off.
I buy the epoxy paint($35) from Pro paint supplier which they inject into a special 2 pack spray can so you don't need any spray equipment the stuff is toxic do it outside and wear a decent respirator, you could probably do 2 boards with 1 can but once you activate the hardener you got to use it within 20 mins.
Select to expand quoteThe Windsurfing Shed said..
We've got the Monster non-skid paint if you want to give it a shot.
Sticks to anything and last for a while.
Great , but I could not find it on your website... how to get one?
Select to expand quotepowersloshin said..The Windsurfing Shed said..
We've got the Monster non-skid paint if you want to give it a shot.
Sticks to anything and last for a while.
Great , but I could not find it on your website... how to get one?
I got a can of that stuff from Remi and it's awesome: the quickest, easiest, hassle free job , and virtually invisible.
^^ but I doubt it lasts well? Single pack stuff never seems to. Like spraycans vs real 2pack car paint.
Get Botecote non yellowing epoxy - sample pack is about $15 from manufacturer and they will post
and Intergrip (acrylic dust) from a boating supplies for $12
That gives u enough epoxy to do 2 boards, and enough dust for about 10 boards.
And it is same as factory.
Polyester flow coat with q cell mixed in until its not runny any more,prep it, roll it on ,let it cure and sand off the needle like finish to desired effect,paint with whatever,preferably urathane,this is the best quality marine finish I have found.
The trick with using polyester resin is to thin it prior to painting it on, too thick and you will end up with a mess. Thin with styrene, this is the wax solution added to polyester laminating resin to make it filler resin (sandable). Sand off the old grip, mask the edges, thin the resin, 4% mekp and paint on with a brush. Sprinkle caster sugar over the top and let set overnight, wash off excess sugar and ants in the morning, good to go.
The advantage of polyester resin over urethane is they remain clear, cheap and hard wearing. Polyester is very hard when set and the grip seems to hold its sharpness better. Most of the sugar will dissolve over time, leaving the roughness of the remaining resin for grip.
Can we use just ordinary sugar instead of custard sugar?
Maybe remain cavities in resin remains even bigger for better grip?
Select to expand quoteMacroscien said..
Can we use just ordinary sugar instead of custard sugar?
Maybe remain cavities in resin remains even bigger for better grip?
Castor sugar. Custard sugar would be all eggy and stuff 
Try it on something first. I tried different grades of grip, and I think castor sugar was about right. The larger the grains the better the grip, but you are going to remove some skin if you come off and slide across the deck.
Your choice.
* no I didn't edit my post after I made a spelling mistake! 
I used epoxy resin and castor sugar on an old go, worked well!
Heaps of grip when I have foot pressure but not enough when light footed.
I will go with plain sugar next time for more grip.
Select to expand quoteWineman said..
"CASTOR" sugar. About $1.00 /kg in supermarket
(Spell cheque )
Peter, thats wot I sed! Only n idiot wuld rite casting shugar!
hate to correct ,but flow coat already has styrene wax in it ,about _2%,the idea of thickening it is so it has a stiple finish.and what ever you don't use mekp as a thinner ,that's the catalyst and at 2% in 20 deg will give you about 15-20 min safe working time,but I bet you knew that,if you want to thin polyester resin use styrene monomer,max about 5% or just use thinners, works ok to ,just not to much.disreguard any of this info for survey equipment haha.
I have no idea why one would use polyester on an epoxy board. Epoxy works just the same, and whatever is left can be used for repairs.
It is easier to mix right, everyone has a polyester resin story not going off with the right amount of catalyst. Epoxy doesn't stink. It is stronger. List goes on....
Epoxy rolled on as thin as you can, then caster sugar sprinkled on.
Or the real stuff if you want to spend $11 for acrylic dust. Why stuff around modifying what works?
Nothing wrong with polyester quick easy cheap,available,will go over epoxy no problems,epoxy has lower ratio tolerance particularly in small amounts expensive,but whatever works for you
