Hi,
which position on SS fuselage (A, B or C) do you use with which front wing and what are your observations how the selection of position influences behaviour of the flight?
Thanks.

The longer the distance between the wing and the stab will affect the stability. Since Slingshot is a popular platform and used on many boards other than their own, the adjustability to find the right balance point between the front and rear feet also come into play. Larger wings will provide more lift at higher speeds, so the ability to adjust it back in higher winds will help balance the lift vs control.

Hi IE, thanks for the answer, but it is just theoretical for all foils. I would like to know some settings from users that actually use SS foils and what did they find.
PS: I just find some answers in SS HG 84 test topic :).

Fuselage position A has the least lift - C has the most lift (wing is more forward).

We use B for the Infinity 76 wing.

C or B for the Time Code 68 wing.
C has a little more stability through the gybes, but probably more lift than you want when accelerating down a swell.

C for the Infinity 84 wing.


I've tried A with the 76, but the wing sits too far back and it's hard to lift (for wind foiling). SUPs use this position.


It's a bonus of the Slingshot HoverGlide that it has this ability to tune and use a Tuttle box foil mount

Hey there, good question. I run my 76 on "B" and it's perfect for me. I just bought the warp speed "62" and tried it yesterday and couldn't find the right settings. If anyone has one do you change the fuselage position ?

The main point is to get the front wing at or near the mid-point fore and aft between your footstraps. However you achieve this, be it a-b-c, or power plate, or movable footraps, it is very important. Get this balanced. If it is out of balance, you will struggle. When balanced, you can let the front wing do all the lifting work.

See this:

Select to expand quote

azymuth said..
Fuselage position A has the least lift - C has the most lift (wing is more forward).

We use B for the Infinity 76 wing.

C or B for the Time Code 68 wing.
C has a little more stability through the gybes, but probably more lift than you want when accelerating down a swell.

C for the Infinity 84 wing.


I've tried A with the 76, but the wing sits too far back and it's hard to lift (for wind foiling). SUPs use this position.


It's a bonus of the Slingshot HoverGlide that it has this ability to tune and use a Tuttle box foil mount

Hi Azymuth,
I just purchased the SlingShot Levitator 150 board with the Infinity 84cm foil.So no matter the board, the Infinity 84cm foil should always be mounted in the C position on the fuselage for wind foiling?

There was zero manual included or reference to website with any assembly instructions, so a bit lost to be honest about where all the bolts and all pieces should go. Definitely an area SlingShot could and should do much better...

Thank you for your kind advice on this.

Cyber,
I84 calls for position "C". Besides that, using foil track place the foil mast right under rear footstraps. You may want to take footstraps off for the time being. this is a quote from Whiteofheart's post, that should be a beginners guide to finding the right balance on the foil board. I agree with every point he makes:
"There's many factors and different techniques. In racing I have both legs straight 99% of the time, independent of windstrength, and am even more comfortable with my backfoot in the backstrap in high than low wind. Freeriding I bend through the frontleg a lot. Both require different trims.

First, in a quick and dirty manner of speaking, your foiltrim is 'correct' when you can keep flying with your front foot in the strap and your backfoot at least 2/3rd back inbetween the straps. My setups keep flying when I put my backfoot next to the frontstrap! Having the foils' power forward is paramount in stability, and trying to learn the right technique is impossible if you foils' power is too far back. If you cant pull your backfoot out of the strap and put it about halfway between the straps without landing you have to do some trimming before you continue. (Moving the foil forward, increasing angle on the stab etc.) Take about where I put my foot in this jibe as a reference: www.instagram.com/p/B0tWz4DgpsW/?igshid=1ws1sc0dogcdb

Personally I'm not a big fan of "the front wing should be center between your feet" quick and dirty way of trimming. In the kit on the video my front wing is 8cm behind the frontstrap, so that would be over 3/4th! I run somewhere between 2/3rd and 3/4th forward between the straps on my freeride setups aswell. This to be able to put my weight over the foil, increasing balance tremendously (maybe after a short adjustment period)

Fter you have that sorted, there's 2 general techniques:
The first one requires a longer distance between the mastfoot and the foil, as you keep the nose down through mastfoot preassure. By pushing the sail forward and away from you you distribute your weight between your legs and the mastfoot by hanging your weight from the boom. This works very well for flying in a straight line and getting the upwind angles.
If you want to have a more manouvre oriented style move the sail back all the way and boom up, you'll be able to sail more upright and really distribute the weight more over your legs, and have pretty much no weight hanging down from the boom.
The first technique is easier on racing equipment with the straps outboard, the latter is easier with more manouvre oriented straps and maybe even (partly) strapless. Learning the second technique properly is also key for the foiling duckjibe for example, as in the duckjibe you have no way to preassure the mastfoot to stabilize rideheight.

One thing which matters a great deal in control and is paramount for both styles is sailtrim and harnessline positioning. I disagree with thightening the leech to increase acceleration. The less twist you have the less acceleration and the more power you'll feel in the sail. I advice learners to always trim their sail as normal!! Regular sails need the open leech to work properly, as thats the way the sail is designed!! It has its shape thought out by the sail designers, and generally you shouldnt go too far of the way it is supposed to be set. A more open leech will make the sail feel a lot softer in the gusts and accelerate better. A leech which is too thight might bring you out of balance in the gusts because it is very jerky.
Second, the harness lines have to be dead center. When on the foil try sailing with no hands. If the sail falls forward move your lines forward, if it falls backward move them back. For the foil I trim my lines down to the mm and am able to sail over 20 seconds with no hands. I put my lines all the way together, but thats a personal preference, when i started foiling I had them a handwidth apart, but i feel I have more control and faster response to gusts when they are closer together. Simply put, how far they are apart determines your room of error, but also the responsiveness of your sail to gusts by a great deal!"

I use B position for my i84 and Time Code 68. I have tracks in my Naish micro hover board and will usually use the i84 3cm further forward.
I use the stand 42cm rear wing with both wings.

That works well with plenty of front foot pressure and nicely balanced for gybing.

I am a huge fan of having tracks in the board to be able to easily move the foil forward and back during a session.

Select to expand quote

sl55 said..
Cyber,
I84 calls for position "C". Besides that, using foil track place the foil mast right under rear footstraps. You may want to take footstraps off for the time being. this is a quote from Whiteofheart's post, that should be a beginners guide to finding the right balance on the foil board. I agree with every point he makes:
"There's many factors and different techniques. In racing I have both legs straight 99% of the time, independent of windstrength, and am even more comfortable with my backfoot in the backstrap in high than low wind. Freeriding I bend through the frontleg a lot. Both require different trims.

First, in a quick and dirty manner of speaking, your foiltrim is 'correct' when you can keep flying with your front foot in the strap and your backfoot at least 2/3rd back inbetween the straps. My setups keep flying when I put my backfoot next to the frontstrap! Having the foils' power forward is paramount in stability, and trying to learn the right technique is impossible if you foils' power is too far back. If you cant pull your backfoot out of the strap and put it about halfway between the straps without landing you have to do some trimming before you continue. (Moving the foil forward, increasing angle on the stab etc.) Take about where I put my foot in this jibe as a reference: www.instagram.com/p/B0tWz4DgpsW/?igshid=1ws1sc0dogcdb

Personally I'm not a big fan of "the front wing should be center between your feet" quick and dirty way of trimming. In the kit on the video my front wing is 8cm behind the frontstrap, so that would be over 3/4th! I run somewhere between 2/3rd and 3/4th forward between the straps on my freeride setups aswell. This to be able to put my weight over the foil, increasing balance tremendously (maybe after a short adjustment period)

Fter you have that sorted, there's 2 general techniques:
The first one requires a longer distance between the mastfoot and the foil, as you keep the nose down through mastfoot preassure. By pushing the sail forward and away from you you distribute your weight between your legs and the mastfoot by hanging your weight from the boom. This works very well for flying in a straight line and getting the upwind angles.
If you want to have a more manouvre oriented style move the sail back all the way and boom up, you'll be able to sail more upright and really distribute the weight more over your legs, and have pretty much no weight hanging down from the boom.
The first technique is easier on racing equipment with the straps outboard, the latter is easier with more manouvre oriented straps and maybe even (partly) strapless. Learning the second technique properly is also key for the foiling duckjibe for example, as in the duckjibe you have no way to preassure the mastfoot to stabilize rideheight.

One thing which matters a great deal in control and is paramount for both styles is sailtrim and harnessline positioning. I disagree with thightening the leech to increase acceleration. The less twist you have the less acceleration and the more power you'll feel in the sail. I advice learners to always trim their sail as normal!! Regular sails need the open leech to work properly, as thats the way the sail is designed!! It has its shape thought out by the sail designers, and generally you shouldnt go too far of the way it is supposed to be set. A more open leech will make the sail feel a lot softer in the gusts and accelerate better. A leech which is too thight might bring you out of balance in the gusts because it is very jerky.
Second, the harness lines have to be dead center. When on the foil try sailing with no hands. If the sail falls forward move your lines forward, if it falls backward move them back. For the foil I trim my lines down to the mm and am able to sail over 20 seconds with no hands. I put my lines all the way together, but thats a personal preference, when i started foiling I had them a handwidth apart, but i feel I have more control and faster response to gusts when they are closer together. Simply put, how far they are apart determines your room of error, but also the responsiveness of your sail to gusts by a great deal!"

Thank you sl55, great post and wealth of experienced advice I all take in !
I like very much your thinking and approach, as near my own philosophy also from the windsurfing days, so will definitely use your guidance here for my initial setup to get started on the windfoiling !

Select to expand quote

Cyber said..

sl55 said..
Cyber,
I84 calls for position "C". Besides that, using foil track place the foil mast right under rear footstraps. You may want to take footstraps off for the time being. this is a quote from Whiteofheart's post, that should be a beginners guide to finding the right balance on the foil board. I agree with every point he makes:
"There's many factors and different techniques. In racing I have both legs straight 99% of the time, independent of windstrength, and am even more comfortable with my backfoot in the backstrap in high than low wind. Freeriding I bend through the frontleg a lot. Both require different trims.

First, in a quick and dirty manner of speaking, your foiltrim is 'correct' when you can keep flying with your front foot in the strap and your backfoot at least 2/3rd back inbetween the straps. My setups keep flying when I put my backfoot next to the frontstrap! Having the foils' power forward is paramount in stability, and trying to learn the right technique is impossible if you foils' power is too far back. If you cant pull your backfoot out of the strap and put it about halfway between the straps without landing you have to do some trimming before you continue. (Moving the foil forward, increasing angle on the stab etc.) Take about where I put my foot in this jibe as a reference: www.instagram.com/p/B0tWz4DgpsW/?igshid=1ws1sc0dogcdb

Personally I'm not a big fan of "the front wing should be center between your feet" quick and dirty way of trimming. In the kit on the video my front wing is 8cm behind the frontstrap, so that would be over 3/4th! I run somewhere between 2/3rd and 3/4th forward between the straps on my freeride setups aswell. This to be able to put my weight over the foil, increasing balance tremendously (maybe after a short adjustment period)

Fter you have that sorted, there's 2 general techniques:
The first one requires a longer distance between the mastfoot and the foil, as you keep the nose down through mastfoot preassure. By pushing the sail forward and away from you you distribute your weight between your legs and the mastfoot by hanging your weight from the boom. This works very well for flying in a straight line and getting the upwind angles.
If you want to have a more manouvre oriented style move the sail back all the way and boom up, you'll be able to sail more upright and really distribute the weight more over your legs, and have pretty much no weight hanging down from the boom.
The first technique is easier on racing equipment with the straps outboard, the latter is easier with more manouvre oriented straps and maybe even (partly) strapless. Learning the second technique properly is also key for the foiling duckjibe for example, as in the duckjibe you have no way to preassure the mastfoot to stabilize rideheight.

One thing which matters a great deal in control and is paramount for both styles is sailtrim and harnessline positioning. I disagree with thightening the leech to increase acceleration. The less twist you have the less acceleration and the more power you'll feel in the sail. I advice learners to always trim their sail as normal!! Regular sails need the open leech to work properly, as thats the way the sail is designed!! It has its shape thought out by the sail designers, and generally you shouldnt go too far of the way it is supposed to be set. A more open leech will make the sail feel a lot softer in the gusts and accelerate better. A leech which is too thight might bring you out of balance in the gusts because it is very jerky.
Second, the harness lines have to be dead center. When on the foil try sailing with no hands. If the sail falls forward move your lines forward, if it falls backward move them back. For the foil I trim my lines down to the mm and am able to sail over 20 seconds with no hands. I put my lines all the way together, but thats a personal preference, when i started foiling I had them a handwidth apart, but i feel I have more control and faster response to gusts when they are closer together. Simply put, how far they are apart determines your room of error, but also the responsiveness of your sail to gusts by a great deal!"

Thank you sl55, great post and wealth of experienced advice I all take in !
I like very much your thinking and approach, as near my own philosophy also from the windsurfing days, so will definitely use your guidance here for my initial setup to get started on the windfoiling !

I think we should all thank Bart Kramer AKA WhiteofHeart for sharing his knowledge, not me.

Thanks Bart

Select to expand quote

sl55 said..

Cyber said..

sl55 said..
Cyber,
I84 calls for position "C". Besides that, using foil track place the foil mast right under rear footstraps. You may want to take footstraps off for the time being. this is a quote from Whiteofheart's post, that should be a beginners guide to finding the right balance on the foil board. I agree with every point he makes:
"There's many factors and different techniques. In racing I have both legs straight 99% of the time, independent of windstrength, and am even more comfortable with my backfoot in the backstrap in high than low wind. Freeriding I bend through the frontleg a lot. Both require different trims.

First, in a quick and dirty manner of speaking, your foiltrim is 'correct' when you can keep flying with your front foot in the strap and your backfoot at least 2/3rd back inbetween the straps. My setups keep flying when I put my backfoot next to the frontstrap! Having the foils' power forward is paramount in stability, and trying to learn the right technique is impossible if you foils' power is too far back. If you cant pull your backfoot out of the strap and put it about halfway between the straps without landing you have to do some trimming before you continue. (Moving the foil forward, increasing angle on the stab etc.) Take about where I put my foot in this jibe as a reference: www.instagram.com/p/B0tWz4DgpsW/?igshid=1ws1sc0dogcdb

Personally I'm not a big fan of "the front wing should be center between your feet" quick and dirty way of trimming. In the kit on the video my front wing is 8cm behind the frontstrap, so that would be over 3/4th! I run somewhere between 2/3rd and 3/4th forward between the straps on my freeride setups aswell. This to be able to put my weight over the foil, increasing balance tremendously (maybe after a short adjustment period)

Fter you have that sorted, there's 2 general techniques:
The first one requires a longer distance between the mastfoot and the foil, as you keep the nose down through mastfoot preassure. By pushing the sail forward and away from you you distribute your weight between your legs and the mastfoot by hanging your weight from the boom. This works very well for flying in a straight line and getting the upwind angles.
If you want to have a more manouvre oriented style move the sail back all the way and boom up, you'll be able to sail more upright and really distribute the weight more over your legs, and have pretty much no weight hanging down from the boom.
The first technique is easier on racing equipment with the straps outboard, the latter is easier with more manouvre oriented straps and maybe even (partly) strapless. Learning the second technique properly is also key for the foiling duckjibe for example, as in the duckjibe you have no way to preassure the mastfoot to stabilize rideheight.

One thing which matters a great deal in control and is paramount for both styles is sailtrim and harnessline positioning. I disagree with thightening the leech to increase acceleration. The less twist you have the less acceleration and the more power you'll feel in the sail. I advice learners to always trim their sail as normal!! Regular sails need the open leech to work properly, as thats the way the sail is designed!! It has its shape thought out by the sail designers, and generally you shouldnt go too far of the way it is supposed to be set. A more open leech will make the sail feel a lot softer in the gusts and accelerate better. A leech which is too thight might bring you out of balance in the gusts because it is very jerky.
Second, the harness lines have to be dead center. When on the foil try sailing with no hands. If the sail falls forward move your lines forward, if it falls backward move them back. For the foil I trim my lines down to the mm and am able to sail over 20 seconds with no hands. I put my lines all the way together, but thats a personal preference, when i started foiling I had them a handwidth apart, but i feel I have more control and faster response to gusts when they are closer together. Simply put, how far they are apart determines your room of error, but also the responsiveness of your sail to gusts by a great deal!"

Thank you sl55, great post and wealth of experienced advice I all take in !
I like very much your thinking and approach, as near my own philosophy also from the windsurfing days, so will definitely use your guidance here for my initial setup to get started on the windfoiling !

I think we should all thank Bart Kramer AKA WhiteofHeart for sharing his knowledge, not me.

Thank you Bart and sl55 !

(Btw, when is one qualified to give a thumbs up to other posters on this forum? I am told, that I am not yet qualified, when I press the icon)

Apparently I am, so you now have a thumbs up

Select to expand quote

oscardog said..
Apparently I am, so you now have a thumbs up

Oscardog, I owe you one then!

Select to expand quote

Cyber said..

azymuth said..
Fuselage position A has the least lift - C has the most lift (wing is more forward).

We use B for the Infinity 76 wing.

C or B for the Time Code 68 wing.
C has a little more stability through the gybes, but probably more lift than you want when accelerating down a swell.

C for the Infinity 84 wing.


I've tried A with the 76, but the wing sits too far back and it's hard to lift (for wind foiling). SUPs use this position.


It's a bonus of the Slingshot HoverGlide that it has this ability to tune and use a Tuttle box foil mount

Hi Azymuth,
I just purchased the SlingShot Levitator 150 board with the Infinity 84cm foil.So no matter the board, the Infinity 84cm foil should always be mounted in the C position on the fuselage for wind foiling?

There was zero manual included or reference to website with any assembly instructions, so a bit lost to be honest about where all the bolts and all pieces should go. Definitely an area SlingShot could and should do much better...

Thank you for your kind advice on this.

Here's some advice from Matt Miller on how to set up the Levitator boards for the i76 and the i84 -- hope this helps:

"For the Levitator I usually put:

The 76 in Fuse position B and then move it all the way back in the track (Using the outer most pedestal holes)

I have my front straps all the way forward and outboard and my back strap one hole from the back.

Mast base at 107cm from the front of mast or in the middle of the front half of the track (3/4 forward).

Then when you want to use the 84cm instead of having to flip the fuselage and remove all those bolts, I just remove the 76 and mount the 84 in the same Position B. Now if you move your pedestal mount 2 inches forward it should be just right. If you are riding with too much weight on your back foot you can move it another inch forward. Too much lift you can move it back a bit. But 2 inches forward should be perfect.

Stoked you are having fun on all the foil gear. Best tip I give people is that it is all about really moving your hips; forward over the front foot to keep it down and then back over your back foot to rise higher. Just trying to apply pressure to one foot or the other does not have a continuous effect unless you actually move your hips over that foot."