Super rare Cyclone swell - I pointed my cameras at it -

Was that the best you got?

Hoping they're less rare in future

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Buster fin said..
Was that the best you got?

it was an interesting swell - tonnes of waves but statistically there were very few waves ridden (looked better up trigg way) - it looked like it just wouldn't flick the rider in and then the wave would just be too fast to stay with. I was going to go for a surf but the actual lack of completed rides made me feel better about staying on cameras.

Oh, yeah, the rides were epic @ 2nds/3rds! Loads of over-the-falls early on, but it groomed itself on some bombs.

Two hands up to the charger I spotted getting out of a cavern and onto the roof for a good 15m before pulling it down and actually making the death drop from hell and riding out!

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Buster fin said..
Oh, yeah, the rides were epic @ 2nds/3rds! Loads of over-the-falls early on, but it groomed itself on some bombs.

Two hands up to the charger I spotted getting out of a cavern and onto the roof for a good 15m before pulling it down and actually making the death drop from hell and riding out!

Yeah - I was down there watching for a good 40min. Some absolute crankers coming through - and being made. Then there were the death close-outs... I was waiting for someone to come up the beach with a board in two halves...

I decided I was not surf-fit enough for that crowd - that would have been 80+ hovering around the peak. Looked a few kms further North metro and it was just not working at all. Mettams left was not breaking and the right was only chest to shoulder - swell angle must have been all wrong for a lot of places.

I hit the water at 2nd car park Trigg around 2:00pm and it was a completely different day - still good (and crowded), but none of those fast pits as the tide had taken the wow out of it...

I saw two drones and two long lens cameras at seconds around 9:30am - would love to see some of the footage if anyone can post a link.

Crowd was horrendous between Trigg & Scabs - there was no way in the world I was going to paddle out there.

Guys were deep in the pit and 3 blokes would fall from the sky and they would all wipe out...carnage.

Shook my head and drove away - had good fun later in the morning at a different part of the beach on a different type of craft

For the most part was a good crowd. Broke my board but the waves I got were good enough to still have me smiling walking up the beach doing the walk of shame with a snapped board

For a metro based surfer like me that swell was something I will remember for a long time!

Cant seem to open the footage?

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Souwester said..
with a snapped board

A SUP?

Leighton good and a bit bigger than expected!

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DARTH said..
Leighton good and a bit bigger than expected!

Yeah - a couple of blokes here at work said they had never seen it that big or that good...

The South Leighton bank in front of the Fremantle surf life saving club was the spot in my view. It was collecting way more swell than along the Cottesloe reefs, which seemed to be bypassed. Nice outside overhead peaks on the bigger sets, peeling rights, 100m+ on the good ones and almost all makeable. Also more peaks down the beach heading towards the port. All time I would say [for Leighton]. It looked like just about everyone in Freo had dusted off the old board in the garage, but a Shifting peak spread the crowd across 200m. Good vibe in the crowd too with every Freo local including a few of the Dockers putting in an appearance. Saw Nat Fyfe get lots on his green foamie.

It Looked like the coast North was mostly charging R hand death barrels 10m from the sand with almost no one making them.

Suppose it will be another 7 years before we get another decent North swell

That bank in front of the freo surf club in the afternoon was mint!! Few out but able to get plenty. Even a few lefts, but the rights were cranking.......

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GPA said..

DARTH said..
Leighton good and a bit bigger than expected!

Yeah - a couple of blokes here at work said they had never seen it that big or that good...

Some big-ish sets came through, it was cranking through there!!

Anyone got any more photos or video??

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Buster fin said..

Souwester said..
with a snapped board

A SUP?

Yep!

I'm sorry I wasn't there to see that!

I ended up surfing a reef just up from Leighton - big lull between sets but few came through. Wasn't as big as I thought it would be. The Leighton beach angle must have just worked better. You could see a thousand people just out the front of the surf club from the cliffs.... none of the Cott reefs were working.

With port beach car park basically closed off with that sets on the beach gig I didn't even bother stopping in the overflowing Leighton car park...

Couple of of years ago there was an absolute ripper of a day at Leighton on a Sunday - all day glass off with heavin peelers. Best surf at my local.