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Forums > Surfing Shortboards

Technical details of boards - BS?

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Created by dirtyharry > 9 months ago, 6 Jan 2012
dirtyharry
WA, 444 posts
6 Jan 2012 2:41PM
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I've always been pretty skeptical of people who discuss the finer details of board shapes with great confidence as to the impact of these features. E.g. fins, concaves, tails, channels, rocker etc.

Obviously these have an impact on how a board rides (some more easily understood than others), but I'm starting to think that in some cases a lot of feedback that the average surfer gives about minor design changes is crap.

For example, with a car a driver can drive the same track under almost identical conditions for hours at a time. I can see how this would allow a good driver to feel the effect of relatively subtle changes to the car set up.

But conditions generally change significantly from 1 surf to the next. Besides, the the average surfer might only actually surf for a few minutes in a 2 hour session. And this few minutes will be made up of numerous different waves. And in that time the tide, swell and wind are all likely to change.

So I find it very hard to believe that the average surfer can really isolate the effect of subtle differences in board shape/design over all the other variables involved in surfing.

What's everyone reckon?

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
6 Jan 2012 3:59PM
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I think I can feel the difference between the size of fins but shapes dont feel a huge difference in general.
Up until now Ive never really got on well with single concave boards but the FW seems to be a winner.

If you wanna listen to some real boolsh!z have a look in the SUP room, they really like to crap on in there

GPA
WA, 2529 posts
6 Jan 2012 4:19PM
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Well, every new board I get is substantially different from the last (but I usually keep them ~ 4yrs), and I definately can tell the difference, but usually it's more about the rocker and rails (and thruster -> quad).

I generally agree with your thoughts, but in the 'old days' when nearly all boards had a skeg/fin box, I reckon moving it an inch forward or back, or putting a smaller fin in was definately noticeable. Having said that, I was surfing all the time then, and would generally make the change mid-surf...

Perhaps what I am talking about are not the subtle changes you are referring too...

CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
6 Jan 2012 6:45PM
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I agree with your sentiment and working in retail and with manufacturers can't tell you how many Loonies I've dealt with that complain over 1/16 of an inch rocker or a fin that is not perfectly on the dot or something.

BUT, to feel the difference in things sometimes you need to feel the extremes to understand what they do. Try a board with very small fins or very large.... You will without feel a difference. Take the exact same board with concave or reverse vee, you will feel a difference.

My point is that somewhere in the middle is probably something that feels great to you, even as an average surfer. Secondly an average surfer will surf more to their potential on something perfectly suited. I am not suggesting obsession but by working with a shaper that takes the time to look at what you've been riding, how it feels and what you want to achieve you'll get there a lot quicker.

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
6 Jan 2012 4:57PM
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^^ Hey CMC Ive got a shapers set square you know the clear ones, no board I have mesured up has been perfect. In fact the worst one would be my AB, tbh I dont think a board should be perfect. Makes them even more special imo

CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
6 Jan 2012 7:21PM
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doggie said...

^^ Hey CMC Ive got a shapers set square you know the clear ones, no board I have mesured up has been perfect. In fact the worst one would be my AB, tbh I dont think a board should be perfect. Makes them even more special imo


So do I Doggie, I can't say I've ever measured the accuracy of my boards though.

Are you sure you arent one of those Loonies I was talking about above??

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
6 Jan 2012 5:28PM
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CMC said...

doggie said...

^^ Hey CMC Ive got a shapers set square you know the clear ones, no board I have mesured up has been perfect. In fact the worst one would be my AB, tbh I dont think a board should be perfect. Makes them even more special imo


So do I Doggie, I can't say I've ever measured the accuracy of my boards though.

Are you sure you arent one of those Loonies I was talking about above??


Lol if I was I would take the square into the shop with me to drive guys like you crazy

katana
WA, 644 posts
6 Jan 2012 9:34PM
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i deal with customers asking advice all the time with and 90% of the time i can make them a board that will work for them. i usually ask them to bring in there current board i and try and work out what it is and isn't doing. most of the time i can shape something that will work for them . i agree with minor dimensions and subtle changes average surfers cant feel much difference unless in consistant wave conditions.

crustt
VIC, 190 posts
7 Jan 2012 10:06AM
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I've been surfing this board for 4 years, it is one of the better boards I have owned. One of the forward fins is set a 1/2an inch closer to the rail, when I realized this I went straight to the shaper to demand a replacement, he was shocked that such a fault slipped by him but suggested as I did not notice it for 2 years he was no longer liable.So no I don't think the average surfer cant ell the difference.

CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
7 Jan 2012 9:57AM
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To clarify the question: is the suggestion that minor defects or extremely minor changes to design are undetectable or is it that changes to design total are not detectable.

Doggies measurement comment and the fin thing as above demonstrate that assymetrics are not a negative thing. Many Shapers design boards this way, you can't notice them as you surf differently forehand and backhand. In the case of asymmetric design Murray used to put his toe and heel fin offset to be drivier off the toe and looser off the heel.

Regarding fins, I have seen far too many boards that didn't work become dream boards with a fin size change to believe people can't feel that either. You may not feel the difference between a M7 to a PC7 but you will feel a M3.

My personal belief is that for the most part we are spoilt as most of the thought or design features of a board are just there, we don't need to think about them. Either the board feels good or not, if not change the fins with someone that understands them guidance, rule of thumb, board feels slow and driveless, go bigger, too stiff go smaller.

If that doesnt work speak to your shaper, tell him what you feel. Any good one will know what needs to be done.

IMHO a relationship with a shaper that you can speak with and involvement with the design of your own boards is worth at least 50% of the value of the board.

katana
WA, 644 posts
7 Jan 2012 8:01AM
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totally agree

swalkington
WA, 401 posts
7 Jan 2012 10:34AM
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crustt said...



I've been surfing this board for 4 years, it is one of the better boards I have owned. One of the forward fins is set a 1/2an inch closer to the rail, when I realized this I went straight to the shaper to demand a replacement, he was shocked that such a fault slipped by him but suggested as I did not notice it for 2 years he was no longer liable.So no I don't think the average surfer cant ell the difference.


That's pretty bad crust......can you say what brand it was or would you prefer not to?
If he can get a fin that much out I wonder what else is going on with the rest of the shape? Although I guess the fins would be set by someone else and the shaper would just shape the board.....maybe that's why he didn't notice. I would think a fin that out would cause some performance peculiarities though.

Legion
WA, 2222 posts
7 Jan 2012 10:40AM
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It's pretty obvious from the naked eye in that photo. Also the tail width looks a fraction wider or differently shaped on the left (with respect to the photo). But you can clearly see the back fin/front fin offset distances are different and the front fin/rail distances are different by a long shot.

CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
7 Jan 2012 12:48PM
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Legion said...

It's pretty obvious from the naked eye in that photo. Also the tail width looks a fraction wider or differently shaped on the left (with respect to the photo). But you can clearly see the back fin/front fin offset distances are different and the front fin/rail distances are different by a long shot.


It's probably what made the board 'one of the better he has owned'.

The added distance from the rail probably brings it closer to his foot ala the Bob McTavish theory. www.flickr.com/photos/ricricho/3940181626/

It's why magic boards are impossible to replicate, sometimes random stuff makes them work better than if they were technically perfect.

doggie
WA, 15849 posts
7 Jan 2012 11:04AM
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CMC said...

Legion said...

It's pretty obvious from the naked eye in that photo. Also the tail width looks a fraction wider or differently shaped on the left (with respect to the photo). But you can clearly see the back fin/front fin offset distances are different and the front fin/rail distances are different by a long shot.


It's probably what made the board 'one of the better he has owned'.

The added distance from the rail probably brings it closer to his foot ala the Bob McTavish theory. www.flickr.com/photos/ricricho/3940181626/

It's why magic boards are impossible to replicate, sometimes random stuff makes them work better than if they were technically perfect.


I had a 6,3 of a local shaper that had a slight twist to the tail (rounded square) and it was a total dog. I check everything now on boards before I buy them unless they come from the east. I havnt had another one with that kind of defect since tho. I could list maybe 15 things wrong with the AB and thats a cracking board so at the end of the day if it looks ok it usually surfs ok as well.

blueprint
WA, 321 posts
7 Jan 2012 11:14AM
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swalkington said...

crustt said...



I've been surfing this board for 4 years, it is one of the better boards I have owned. One of the forward fins is set a 1/2an inch closer to the rail, when I realized this I went straight to the shaper to demand a replacement, he was shocked that such a fault slipped by him but suggested as I did not notice it for 2 years he was no longer liable.So no I don't think the average surfer cant ell the difference.


That's pretty bad crust......can you say what brand it was or would you prefer not to?
If he can get a fin that much out I wonder what else is going on with the rest of the shape? Although I guess the fins would be set by someone else and the shaper would just shape the board.....maybe that's why he didn't notice. I would think a fin that out would cause some performance peculiarities though.



Does it really matter? He said it's one of the better boards he's owned for me the fin could be a foot out and I wouldn't care if it was one of my favourite boards to ride. we are all a bit different I guess and one mans performance peculiarity is another mans all time favourite. Guess that's the difference with hand shaping and having that relationship with a shaper, you can look at what works and what doesn't.

Like the thread, I would have guessed that for most getting the right volume in the right place, the right rocker and a nice edge on the rail is the difference between a fantastic board and a crap one the rest is the complex world of fin placement size etc. that's the beauty of fin systems.

I have a 7'4" that I've had for ages with the redx fins in it, hated it when I got it, changed down to a smaller fin and moved the fronts back a 1/4" and I'll be keeping it as long as it's ridable.

blueprint
WA, 321 posts
7 Jan 2012 11:17AM
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CMC said...

Legion said...

It's pretty obvious from the naked eye in that photo. Also the tail width looks a fraction wider or differently shaped on the left (with respect to the photo). But you can clearly see the back fin/front fin offset distances are different and the front fin/rail distances are different by a long shot.


It's probably what made the board 'one of the better he has owned'.

The added distance from the rail probably brings it closer to his foot ala the Bob McTavish theory. www.flickr.com/photos/ricricho/3940181626/

It's why magic boards are impossible to replicate, sometimes random stuff makes them work better than if they were technically perfect.


Great example is Maurice Cole's story about reverse Vee in the boards he made for Curren.

crustt
VIC, 190 posts
7 Jan 2012 4:08PM
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swalkington said...

crustt said...



I've been surfing this board for 4 years, it is one of the better boards I have owned. One of the forward fins is set a 1/2an inch closer to the rail, when I realized this I went straight to the shaper to demand a replacement, he was shocked that such a fault slipped by him but suggested as I did not notice it for 2 years he was no longer liable.So no I don't think the average surfer cant ell the difference.


That's pretty bad crust......can you say what brand it was or would you prefer not to?
If he can get a fin that much out I wonder what else is going on with the rest of the shape? Although I guess the fins would be set by someone else and the shaper would just shape the board.....maybe that's why he didn't notice. I would think a fin that out would cause some performance peculiarities though.



There is nothing wrong with the shape of the board, might look out of shape because of a lazy repair I did on the tail. I think the saddest thing was that it took me close to 2 years to notice it myself, I picked them up from the glasser, had I have noticed it would have been replaced. The shapers name is Kirk Bierke I've been getting my boards from him for 25 years now , he knows his stuff. I don't even bother to talk about the finer details when I order a board, just length , tail and how many fins. If I go to a shaper I just tell them what I want a board to do in what type of wave and leave it up to them, to many guys go to a shaper and insist on it being done in a certain way and then blame the shaper when it is a dud.
As far as the fin causing performance peculiarities maybe it just compensated for my surfing peculiarities.

thedrip
WA, 2355 posts
9 Jan 2012 12:20AM
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I agree. I have stuffed boards up by thinking I knew what I was talking about and demanding design features. I was given exactly what I asked for and I have two boards that feel funny as a result. One is a semi-gun for eight foot surf and it has never let me down and I got my biggest barrel ever on it, but it just feels weird and I lack confidence in it as a result. Confidence is pretty important in eight foot plus surf. These days I just take a board or two in (the last time it was three) say what I like about each and what I don't like. I took in three last time because I was asking to move up the scale through widtth and thickness rather than length and I really didn't like the 6'9" I had. I was getting a 6'6" and I definitely didn't want the shaper repeating the other one on me. The dog was one of his boards. He did a cracking job and I love it. I also think people should be willing to play with their fins more. I have my favourite shape, but in my channel board it makes it too loose like a crazy horse, yet I let a mate borrow that one up north and the fins I liked were too tight for him. I put my standard fins in and he suddenly loved the board - the fins were AB2s swapped for K2s.

So now instead of asking for what I want I ask a shaper for what I need and trust that they know a lot more from there thousands of boards and hundreds of customers than I know from the thirty or so boards I have had in my lifetime.

crustt said...

swalkington said...

crustt said...



I've been surfing this board for 4 years, it is one of the better boards I have owned. One of the forward fins is set a 1/2an inch closer to the rail, when I realized this I went straight to the shaper to demand a replacement, he was shocked that such a fault slipped by him but suggested as I did not notice it for 2 years he was no longer liable.So no I don't think the average surfer cant ell the difference.


That's pretty bad crust......can you say what brand it was or would you prefer not to?
If he can get a fin that much out I wonder what else is going on with the rest of the shape? Although I guess the fins would be set by someone else and the shaper would just shape the board.....maybe that's why he didn't notice. I would think a fin that out would cause some performance peculiarities though.



There is nothing wrong with the shape of the board, might look out of shape because of a lazy repair I did on the tail. I think the saddest thing was that it took me close to 2 years to notice it myself, I picked them up from the glasser, had I have noticed it would have been replaced. The shapers name is Kirk Bierke I've been getting my boards from him for 25 years now , he knows his stuff. I don't even bother to talk about the finer details when I order a board, just length , tail and how many fins. If I go to a shaper I just tell them what I want a board to do in what type of wave and leave it up to them, to many guys go to a shaper and insist on it being done in a certain way and then blame the shaper when it is a dud.
As far as the fin causing performance peculiarities maybe it just compensated for my surfing peculiarities.




crustt
VIC, 190 posts
9 Jan 2012 7:16AM
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Some of the best boards I have owned were the biggest duds the first time I rode them. Sometimes you just have to persist and find out the good points and change your surfing to suit, next thing you know you've added another dimension to your surfing and your having a ball. I can only recall having 2 duds that I could not get to work, one was off the guy that shaped the board with the offset fin, I got it off of him in Hawaii and it just would not go, so he stood on the beach and watched me and agreed, took the board and had a new one for me 5 days later when I was due to fly out, that's customer service
Once I find the fins I like , mainly cause I am lazy and have enough trouble deciding which board let alone what fins.



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"Technical details of boards - BS?" started by dirtyharry