Watching graphs and charts has become a bit of an obsession, 10 years ago all I looked at was the ABC weather forecast and surface charts in the paper. Now we have a huge range of forcast and real time info available.
Have noticed last couple of years that 1m swell forecast in winter can translate head high sets on the beachies where as 1m in summer wont be as big.
I am dreaming? maybe !
Anyone else noticed this?
No i don't really pay that much atten. Sadly i just go when i can as with my own business and two kids i'm just lucky to surf.
I was supprised though as a few times the forcast is poor and then you do get good reports back so i guess its just go and see..
Hanging for another surf
^^^
Are you talking Rotto or Cott swell bouys?
1m on the Cott bouy is generally out of control at the bigger beachies... but 1m on the Rotto bouy like yesterday and it can be small as...
You just gotta keep an eye on it and know what it is has been like lately and then apply the charts and other forecasts to local knowledge. It's a bit of a black art...
Yep good points raised above.
I always watch the rotto bouy for the perth metro beachies and cape nat for down south.
Has been a few sneaky days of late in perth where the rotto bouy has been reading around 1m and there is quite good size waves (head high).
Same bouy readings in summer dont seem to be the same hight or strength!
Possibly the other variable comming into play swell direction and period.
Just thought there was a pattern there!
As Swalkington said swell direction is important but I think wave period or frequency plays the biggest part for size. I remember a surf I had at a particular place on a 1.3metre swell that with the average 10 second frequency would have an over head high wave on the sets. That day the frequency was 16 which is pretty unusual and it was double head and a half on the sets. That day cemented in me the importance of wave frequency.
Edit ^^^^ Just read your post Ted and I agree
more so what swalkington said, a 7 sec period will be more so "bunched up swell" and a 14sec period will be long clean lines with the right wind. as winter moves in swells generally start to push slightly more from the west and the higher tides help swells travel around corners and into protected areas, meaning they get into not so swell magnets more regularly thus more waves for all.
Period can certainly affect surf, but the flaw in this argue meant is that we get long period swells in both summer and winter.
If only they hung around longer like on the east coast, problem on west coast it's so inconsistent that everyone's hungry for waves and its always crowded unless you get a rare good run of swell back to back.
It all comes down to tides and swell direction and swell period in Perth.
Perth summers have typically weak swell pulses, ssw swell with lower tides during daylight hours. Winter has stronger swell pulses, more westerly direction swells and mid to high tides.
The stronger swell pulses in winter make faster, bigger waves. A more westerly swell pulse also means the swell doesn't have to refract as much when it bends past the outer reefs into the Perth beaches and so it looses less energy. The low tides during daylight hours in summer means not as much swell can get through to the beaches past the outer reefs.
Not to sure about 1m swells = head high in winter, but the same swell height in winter and summer can produce very different results.
Derby day was Close to 2m down here according to the seabreeze swellometer, went for a watch, should have taken the camera, guns galore, monster clean ups, amazing display. Extra couple of seconds seemed to turn it on to the max.
Bahahahahahaa.Sat looking alright.will be some carnage at the local beaches.Secret spots will be good!
long period swells are created by storms a long way away. This is why indo is so groomed and long period. Its also why in Summer we tend to get long period lined up swells that are just one long close out in Perth. Although from some of the comments here it would seem some surfers are unaware of the summer groundswell. It does happen, its just that the direction normally has way to much south for perth.
